COLUMBIA  LIBRARIES  OFFSITE 

HEALTH  SCIENCES  STANDARD 


HX00033936 


FOR  THE 


E  S     I 


FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT: 


A  TREATISE   ON   CORPULENCY  AND   A 
DIETARY  FOR  ITS   CURE. 


BY 

NATHANIEL   EDWARD    DA  VIES, 

Member  of  the  Royal  College  of  Surgeons,  England. 


AMERICAN  EDITION. 


EDITED  BY 

CHARLES  W.  GREENE,  M.A.,  M.D. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

J.    B.    LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY. 
1889. 


Copyright,  1889,  by  J.  B.  LipPiNCOTT  Company. 


CONTENTS, 


Intkodtjctort 


PAUK 
V 


PART  I. 

CoEPtTLENCY  .  -  -  -    Paragraphs 

Pood  Required,  Amount  of      -  •  „ 

Food  i  its  Uses  and  Ultimate  Elimination     ,, 

Uses  of  Fat  in  the  Body  -  •  -,, 

Evils  of  Over-eating,  and  Time  for  Me^ls  ,. 

Amount  of  Food  to  be  Consumeu  -  ,. 

Exercise 

Stimulants  in  CoRPULENcrif 

Tea:  its  Use 

Coffee    „  •  - 

Cocoa         -  -  - 

Water  and  Aerated  Drinks,  etc. 


1—13 

14-41 
42—52 
53—64 
65—69 
70-75 
7tH-86 
87—96 
97—105 

106—108 
109 

110—113 


9 

13 
21 
24 

27 
28 
29 
32 
34 
37 
38 
38 


PART  TT. 

Meat,    Fish,    Vegetables    and    Fruit 

Suitable  for  Fat  People  • 
Examples  of  Dietary    .  -  • 


114—125         40 
46 


CONTENTS. 


Soups 

Fish 

Gra.vy 

Dinner  Dishes 

Vegetables 

Saccharin 

Fruits,  Jellies,  and  Cream"* 

Beverages 

Sauces  foe  Fish,  Meats-  itA\ 

Index        -  "  - 


?AGE 

PaTapraph« 

126—170 

50 

,. 

J  / 1—194 

63 

.> 

Hj— 224 

72 

- 

' 

81 

»• 

•^•25— iiftn 

81 

1  > 

287—334 

101 

• 

• 

115 

j> 

335— 3G1 

116 

>» 

3G2— 375 

123 

)» 

376-401 

126 

. 

.            • 

133 

AMERICAN   INTRODUCTION. 

That  the  reduction  of  corpulency  does  not  necessarily  in- 
volve any  great  hardship  to  the  patient  will  appear  from 
the  study  of  the  following  pages.  Excessive  fatness  is  to  be 
looked  upon  as  a  disease  and  treated  as  a  disease.  It  proves, 
however,  when  judiciously  managed,  to  be  ordinarily  a  dis- 
ease not  remarkably  stubborn  or  resistful  to  the  means  of 
cure.  The  systems  of  diet  recommended  respectively  by 
Banting,  by  Oertel,  and  by  Ebstein  have  all  been  shcrwn  by 
practical  tests  to  have  very  considerable  objections.  The 
life  of  the  obese  man  under  treatment  by  either  of  these 
systems  is  likely  to  become  a  burden.  Deprived  to  a  great 
degree  of  some  of  the  chief  enjoyments  and  pleasures  of  life, 
his  patience  is  put  to  a  severe  test ;  and  very  often  he  is  com- 
pelled by  sheer  hunger,  and  consequent  weakness,  to  forego 
further  treatment,  and  consequently  to  go  on  burdened  by 
his  own  returning  and  increasing  corpulency. 

The  present  book  shows  in  plain  and  unscientific  language 
a  new  and  better  way.  It  is  perfectly  possible,  and  not  very 
difficult,  to  go  on  eating — and  eating  very  well  indeed — and 
yet  be  cured  of  excessive  stoutness.  If  the  patient  be  at  all 
well-to-do,  he  will  be  able,  from  these  pages,  to  select  for 
himself  a  dietary  that  he  and  his  friends  can  enjoy  together, 
if  need  be,  while  yet  he  is  slowly  and  safely  reducing  his  sur- 
plus of  fat. 

The  author  has  provided  for  his  patients  bills  of  fare 
which  an  epicure  need  not  despise,  and  which  to  most  readers 
will  seem  positively  luxurious,  but  which  may  be  relied  upon 


iv  AMERICAN  INTRODUCTION. 

as  certain  to  reduce  corpulency  safely,  pleasantly,  and  not  too 
slowly. 

With  regard  to  the  calendar  of  foods  in  their  season  (pp. 
40-45),  it  must  be  observed  that  our  American  seasons  vary 
greatly  from  the  English,  for  which  reason  the  English  tables 
here  given  will  hardly  serve  as  a  perfect  guide  to  the  forma- 
tion of  an  American  dietary.  Our  range  of  market-garden 
products  is  much  greater  than  that  of  the  English,  and  our 
vegetables  (thanks  to  the  Southern  market-gardens)  are  very 
much  longer  in  season  than  theirs.  On  the  other  hand,  there 
are  very  few  places  in  the  United  States  which  have  so  rich 
or  so  constant  a  supply  of  desirable  game  and  fish  as  that  of 
our  British  cousins.  This  calendar  is,  however,  permitted  tO 
remain  very  nearly  as  in  the  English  edition,  for  it  is  full  of 
suggestions  which  may  be  turned  to  good  account  in  this 
country.  Very  many  of  the  recipes,  pp.  50-132,-  will  be 
found  extremely  useful  to  the  householder,  apart  from  their 
special  value  in  the  treatment  of  obesity.  Not  a  few  of  these 
dishes  are  comparatively  unknown  in  American  cookery. 


INTRODUCTORY. 

What  constitutes  rolDust  health  ?  A  sound  constitution  and  a 
lithe,  active  frame  may  truly  be  the  answer,  for  without  these 
the  power  of  enjoying  life,  even  under  the  most  favourable 
circumstances,  is  to  a  great  extent  limited. 

If  this  be  true,  there  are  a  large  number  of  people  of  both 
sexes  whose  pleasure  is  to  a  considerable  extent  curtailed — 
though  they  may  be  in  other  respects  fortunate — by  the  fact 
that  their  condition  is  incompatible  with  perfect  health,  and 
that  their  bulk  renders  exercise  difficult,  and  in  extreme 
cases  impossible. 

The  mode  of  life  and  dietary  of  the  ordinary  Englishman, 
especially  when  middle  age  is  reached,  undoubtedly  tends  to 
foster  an  accumulation  of  fat,  that,  if  it  does  not  destroy  life 
directly,  does  so  in  very  many  cases  indirectly,  by  preventing 
the  victim  from  taking  the  exercise  necessary  to  circulate  the 
blood,  keep  the  skin  acting,  and  prevent  congestion  of  those 
internal  organs  which  by  their  free  and  healthy  action 
eliminate  the  waste  products  of  the  system. 

The  disease  of  Corpulency — for  a  disease  it  is — creeps  on 
so  insidiously  and  slowly,  and  the  individual  becomes  so 
entangled  in  its  toils,  that  he  or  she  finds,  when  it  becomes 
necessary  to  grapple  with  it,  the  power  to  do  so  curtailed,  and 


▼1 


INTRODUCTORY. 


the  effort  of  taking  the  necessary  steps  so  burdensome  as  to 
be  practically  impossible  or  too  painful  to  continue. 

Happily  for  such  people,  science  comes  to  their  aid,  and, 
without  curtaihng  very  much  the  pleasures  of  the  table,  the 
diet  may  be  so  arranged  that,  without  any  danger  to  health  or 
length  of  life,  a  person  may  slowly  and  safely  reduce  bulk 
and  fat  to  a  degree  compatible  with  enjoyment. 

How  may  this  be  done  ?  A  medical  adviser  who  says  to 
the  victim  of  corpulency,  'You  must  avoid  a  diet  containing 
sugar  and  starch ' — the  principal  fatteners — generally  gets  the 
reply,  *  But,  doctor,  I  don't  know  what  do ;'  for  the  ordinary 
individual  does  no^  make  dietetics  a  study,  and  the  reply 
is  periectiy  true  in  vhe  majority  oi  cases.  The  victim  purges 
and  starves  himself  for  a  few  days,  doing  serious  harm,  and 
making  the  remedy  worse  than  the  disease ;  or  he  consults 
some  quack,  who  reduces  his  balance  at  the  bank,  but  not  his 
corporeal  redundancy.  Under  these  circumstances,  life  becomes 
a  burden,  and  if  the  victim  be  well-to-do — and  generally  he  is 
— he  is  debarred  the  pleasures  of  huntmg,  fishing,  shooting, 
and  all  other  enjoyable  outdoor  exercises. 

The  intention  of  this  little  work  is  to  explain  as  plainly  as 
possible  how  fat  is  accumulated  in  the  system,  and  the  foods 
that  form  it  in  excess ;  and  also  to  give  the  sufferer  a  choice 
of  dishes  and  foods  for  each  meal  that  will  not  add  to  his 
discomfort,  but,  if  persevered  in,  will  reduce  him  to  proper 
dimensions.  Care  has  been  taken  to  allow  just  that  amount 
of  food  containing  fat  and  starch  that  is  well  within  the  limit 
of  safety. 

The  task  of  the  dietitian  is  made  easier  now  a  substitute  for 
sugar  has  been  found  in  saccharin,  a  harmless  product  three 
hundred   times   sweeter   than    siigar;    and  the  author,  from 


INTRODUCTORY.  vii 

personal  expenm,ents,  can  assure  the  reader  that  for  all  house- 
hold purposes  where  it  has  been  necessary  to  use  sugar,  such 
as  in  tea,  coffee,  punch,  negus,  jellies,  stewed  fruits,  apple- 
sauce, mint-sauce,  etc.,  saccharin  is  a  prefect  substitute. 

As  a  dietary  that  produces  fat  often  produces  biliousness  and 
its  attendant  evils,  those  who  suffer  from  this  ailment  may  by 
availing  themselves  of  the  foods  herein  contained  avoid  much 
trouble. 

The  author  as  a  medical  man  has  frequently  seen  the  need 
of  a  work  of  this  kind,  for  diet  is  as  necessary  as  physic  in  the 
treatment  of  disease,  and  a  dietetic  guide  relieves  the  busy 
practitioner  of  the  tedious  process  of  naming  all  the  articles 
which  the  invalid  or  the  sufferer  from  corpulency  may 
indulge  in. 

Sheeboene, 
August^  18^^. 


FOODS   FOR  THE   FAT. 


PART  /. 

CORPULENCY. 

1.  Of  all  the  evils  to  which  humanity  is  subject  as  middle-age 
creeps  on,  there  is  not  one  more  common  than  excess  of  fat, 
or  one  that  causes  greater  discomfort,  or  indirectly  tends  more 
to  shorten  life.  In  men  this  begins  to  show  itself  between  the 
ages  of  forty  and  fifty,  in  women  a  few  years  earlier,  and 
though  it  may  not  be  a  disease  in  itself — unless  it  attains 
enormous  proportions — it  often  induces  disease  by  impeding 
the  victim  from  taking  that  exercise  that  nature  demands  to 
stimulate  the  functions  of  the  difierent  organs  that  keep  the 
body  in  robust  health. 

2.  About  a  twentieth  part  of  the  weight  of  the  male  body 
should  be  of  fat,  and  of  the  female  a  little  more,  but  it  is  seldom 
the  balance  is  so  evenly  kept.  Even  where  this  is  greatly 
exceeded,  some  people  manage  to  enjoy  life  and  to  take  a 
certain  amount  of  exercise,  at  least  in  youth ;  for  Daniel 
Lambert  weighed  some  450  pounds  at  the  age  of  twenty-three 
years,  and  could  then  walk  from  Woolwich  to  London ;  sub- 
sequently he  attained  the  enormous  weight  of  739  pounds, 
and  died  at  the  age  of  thirty-eight  years.  *  Dr.  Warrel  re- 
cords the  case  of  a  young  married  woman,  who  at  eighteen 
was  thin  and  delicate.  She  died  at  the  age  of  fifty-two.  The 
thickness  of  fat  on  the  chest  was  four  inches,  on  the  abdom.cn 


10  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [3. 

eight ;  her  heart,  after  death,  weighed  thirty-six  ounces  (ordi- 
nary weight,  eight).'  Thus  in  extreme  cases  one  half,  or  even 
four- fifths,  of  the  body  may  be  a  mass  of  fat. 

3.  Some  races  of  men  are  more  subject  to  excess  of  fat  than 
others,  but  whether  this  depends  upon  heredity  or  mode  of  Kfe 
is  an  open  question.  After  the  age  of  forty,  particularly  in 
women,  from  reasons  that  may  be  surmised,  excess  of  fatbecornes 
almost  the  rule.  This  is  more  common  in  single  females  than 
in  those  who  have  had  the  care  of  rearing  families.  Again, 
the  Hottentot  is  almost  always  protuberant,  the  German  is 
proverbially  fat,  and  the  Frenchman  generally  so  about  the 
belly ;  the  Scotch  are  thin  as  a  rule  ;  so  are  the  Irish.  What 
the  Englishman  is  may  be  judged  by  the  satire  of  the  a,se,  and 
the  jolly  John  Bull  sort  of  man  depicted  in  the  pages  of  Punch 
may  be  supposed  to  represent  the  national  tendency. 

4.  Among  the  determining  causes  of  corpulency,  the  first  is, 
of  course,  excess  of  food,  more  especially  certain  hinds  of  food, 
and  too  little  work,  though  some  people,  curiously  enough, 
may  be  very  fat  and  still  have  poor  appetites ;  some  seem  to 
get  fat,  eat  what  they  will,*  while  others  remain  thin  ou  the 
most  luxurious  diet.  Drink  has  also  its  influence.  Fat  people 
usually  take  a  large  quantity  of  liquid,  and  in  some  of  its 
forms,  as  in  sweet  wines  and  malt  liquors,  it  is  very  fattening. 

5.  Deficient  muscular  exercise,  by  diminishing  the  amount 
of  wear  of  tissue  (oxidation  of  tissue,  as  physiologists  call  it), 
favours  obesity  ;  and  since,  as  a  rule,  the  stouter  the  person, 
the  less  capable  he  is  of  taking  exercise,  these  two  conditions 
react  one  upon  the  other  to  the  advantage  of  fat-production. 
Nervous  influence  has  much  to  do  with  fat ;  the  high-strung, 
nervous  individual  is  seldom  obese.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
stupid,  heav}^  non-intellectual  person,  or  the  idiot,  is  generally 
flabby  and  fat. 

6.  All  those  states  of  the  system  that  prevent  the  proper 
circulation  of  the  blood  favour  obesity,  by  limiting  its  oxy- 

*  Very  jjlai7i  diet  may  mean  very  fattening  diet  indeed,  as  will  be  seen 
further  on. 


lo.]  CORPULENCY.  ii 

genizing  power,  by  preventing  its  conversion  into  carbonic 
acid  and  watpr,  and  its  elimination  from  the  system  by  the 
breath.  In  this  way  exercise,  by  rapidly  circulating  the  blood 
through  the  lungs,  gets  rid  of  fat  from  the  system.* 

7.  The  power  of  enjoyment  is  limited  in  the  corpulent 
person,  as  exertion  is  attended  with  breathlessness,  which 
forbids  active  exercise.  Then,  as  a  matter  of  course,  follows  con- 
stipation (as  the  muscular  tissue  of  the  bowels  gets  flabby),  and 
piles  and  varicose  veins  come  to  add  to  the  victim's  discomfort. 
The  fat  man  often  ails  without  apparent  cause,  is  more  liable  to 
cold  and  diarrhoea  due  to  the  plethoric  and  congested  state  of 
the  mucous  membranes,  and,  dependent  on  a  congested  state  of 
the  system,  to  giddiness,  headache,  flushed  face,  and  a  bloated 
countenance. 

8.  *  The  mental  activity,'  says  Dr.  Allchin,  '  of  the  over-fat  is 
variable,  and  many  external  causes  tend  to  modify  it ;  but  the 
temperament  is  proverbially  easy-going,  indolent,  and  lethargic, 
especially  after  meals,  although  very  frequently  interrupted  by 
attacks  of  peevishness  and  irritability,  or  by  unusual  somno- 
lence and  quiet.  Examples,  however,  of  considerable  intellec- 
tual attainments  are  not  unknown  among  the  corDulent,' 

^.  The  fat  :nan  is  liable  to  profuse  sweati»T>-  This,  being 
highly  acifl,  causes  chafing  in  the  groins,  with  painful  eruptions. 
Where  this  takes  place,  the  parts  become  sore  and  inflamed. 
He  is  also  more  subject  to  gout,  and  his  urine  always  contains 
uric  acid  to  excess  ;  therefore,  the  same  may  be  said  of  his 
liability  to  rheumatism.  He  is  more  liable  to  disease  than  a 
thin  person,  with  this  disadvantage,  that  ailments  in  him  run 
a  more  unfavourable  course,  and  he  bears  treatment  worse. 
Further,  he  is  more  difficult  to  treat  on  account  of  his  inability 
to  stand  lowering  measures,  and  suffers  from  dela'lity  longer 
during  convalescence. 

10.  When  too  much  food  is  indulged  in,  the  internal  organs 

*  See  •Aids  to  Lon^  Life,'  by  the  same  author,  pajn'e  193.  From  thnt 
work  part  of  this  Fection  has  been  drawn.  The  evils  of  corpulency  and 
other  causes  of  premature  decay  are  treated  at  length  in  that  book. 


11  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [ii- 

become  embarrassed  by  the  waste  in  the  system  that  is  not 
eliminated,  and  a  feeling  of  weakness  ensues,  which  quickly 
passes  away  if  exercise  is  taken  and  a  little  abstinence  prac- 
tised. Diet  influences  the  ch  racter  of  men  and  nations, 
meat-eating  people  being  more  energetic  and  stronger  than 
those  that  live  mostly  on  vegetables.!  Growth  and  tempera- 
ment are  also  influenced  by  food,  and  in  the  case  of  bees  even 
the  sex.  I 

11.  With  age  corpulency  increases  permanently,  unless 
some  exhausting  disease  such  as  chronic  bronchitis  or  diabetes 
come  on,  so  that  excessive  fat  should  always  be  regarded  as 
a  grave  matter,  in  every  way  likely  to  shorten  life,  to  say 
nothing  of  making  it  a  burden  by  its  encumbrance.  Death  by 
faintness  from  an  overloaded  heart  or  an  overloaded  stomach, 
by  apoplexy  from  congestion  and  weakness  of  the  blood- 
vessels, by  bronchitis  or  dropsy  from  poorness  of  the  blood 
and  the  languid  state  of  the  circulation,  often  terminates  life 
about  the  beginning  of  the  sixth  decade. 

12.  '  Eecognising  that  accumulation  of  fat  is  a  perversion  of 
nutrition,  which,  if  once  established,  and  with  a  strong  heredi- 
tary predisposition,  cannot  be  cured,  it  follows  that  we  should 
endeavour  to  prevent  as  far  as  possible  its  increase  by  avoid- 
ance of  those  factors  which  science  tells  us  are  favourable 
to  its  development.  The  cardinal  rule  in  any  procedure  that 
may  be  adopted  is  to  avoid  heroic  treatment;  for  though 
thereby  the  fat  may  be  diminished,  the  result  may  be  attained 
by  establishing  a  worse  state  of  the  body.' 

*  *  Dr.  Dalt'm  states  that  the  entire  quantity  of  food*  required  every 
twenty-four  hours  by  a  man  in  full  health  and  taking  free  exercise  is  of 
meat  16  oz. ,  bread  19  oz.,  fat  3^  oz. ,  and  water  52  oz.'  Jackson,  the 
prize-fighter,  in  training  lived  on  meat  and  stale  bread  only,  with  of  course 
wat  er. ' 

f  This  applies  with  equal  force  to  animals.  The  lion  and  tiger  are 
stronger,  fiercer,  and  more  active  than  the  ox  or  the  sheep. 

J  '  If  by  accident  the  queen  bee  dies  or  is  lost,  the  working  bees  (which 
are  sexually  undeveloped)  select  two  or  three  eggs,  which  they  hatch  in 
large  cflls,  and  then  feed  the  maggots  m  a  stimulating  jelly  different  to 
that  supplied  to  the  other  maggrota,  thus  producing  a  queen  bee.' — 
Nkwsholmb. 


14.]  CORPULENCY.  13 

13.  The  following,  then,  are  the  objects  aimed  at  in  the 
rules  inculcated  and  the  diet  laid  down  in  the  following 
pages :  . 

1.  To  improve  by  exercise    the   muscular   tissue,   and  by 

diet  to  keep  the  muscles   of   the  body  in  tirm  fibie 
and  tone. 

2.  To  maintain  the  blood  in  its  normal  and  healthy  com- 

position. 

3.  To  regulate  the  quantity  of  fluid  in  the  body,  by  freeing 

tne  action  of  the  skin  and  kidneys. 

4.  To  prevent  the  deposit  of  fat,  by  eliminating  from  the 

diet  an  excess  of  those  articles  which  create  it,  but  are 
not  otherwise  useful  in  the  economy. 

5.  To  allow  quite  sufficient  food,  and  even  many  luxuries,  so 

as  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of  nature  and  the  wants  of  the 
system,  and  to  do  this  in  a  gradual,  harmless  manner,  f 

FOOD  REQUIRED,  AMOUNT  OF. 

14.  *  It  may  fairly  be  concluded,'  says  Dr.  Pavy,J  '  that  the 
requirements  as  regards  food  vary  with  exposure  to  different 
conditions.  According  to  the  expenditure  that  is  taking  place, 
so  in  a  good  scheme  of  dieting  should  materials  be  supplied 
which  are  best  calculated  to  yield  what  is  wanted.  Under 
exposure  to  hard  labour  and  inactivity,  and  to  a  high  and  low 
temperature,  the  consumption  of  material  in  the  system  differs, 
and  the  supply  of  food  should  be  regulated  accordingly.' 

*  Luigi  Cornaro,  a  Venetian  gentleman  of  the  seventeenth  century,  after 
a  wild  }outh  wliich  destroyed  his  health,  restored  himself  after  the  age  of 
forty  to  perfect  hetdth  by  a  most  rigid  diet.  He  had  each  day  a  careful 
allowance  of  12  oz.  of  food — bread,  meat,  and  yolk  of  egg— and  14  oz.  of 
light  Italian  wine.  He  wrote  his  book  at  eighty-three,  and  lived  on  his 
hermit-fare  imtil  nearly  a  hundred  years  old,  and  enjoyed  excellent  health. 
His  wife,  who  we  may  presume  fared  in  the  same  manner,  lived  nearly  as 
long. 

f  A  friend  of  the  author's  proposes  fitting  up  a  sanatorium  for  treating 
sufferers  from  corpulency,  dieting  in  the  manner  recommended  in  this  work. 

X  '  Food  and  Dietetics,'  by  JF.  W.  Pavy,  M.D.  J.  and  A.  Churchill, 
London. 


14  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [i^. 

15.  *  The  laws  of  nature,'  he  continues,  '  are  such  as  to  con- 
duce to  an  adaptation  of  the  supply  of  food  to  the  demand. 
We  are  all  conversant  with  the  fact  that  exercise  and  exposure 
to  cold — conditions  which  increase  the  demand  for  food — 
sharpen  the  appetite,  and  thus  lead  to  a  larger  quantity  of 
material  being  consumed,  while  conversely  a  state  of  inactivity 
and  a  warm  climate  tell  in  an  opposite  manner  and  reduce  the 
inclination  for  food.  A  badly-fed  labourer  is  capable  of  per- 
forming but  a  slight  da3's  work,  and  a  starving  man  falls  an 
easy  victim  to  the  effects  of  exposure  to  cold, 

16.  '  Practically  it  is  found  that  hard  work  is  best  performed 
under  a  liberal  supply  of  nitrogen-containing  food  {i.e.,  meat). 
The  reason  is  that  it  leads  to  a  belter  nourished  condition  of 
the  muscles  and  the  body  generally.  Under  the  use  of  animal 
food  which  is  characterized  by  its  richness  in  flesh-tormiug 
matter,  the  muscles  are  observed  to  be  firmer  and  richer  in 
solid  constituents  than  under  subsistence  on  food  of  a  vegetable 
nature ;'  and  it  is  also  obvious  that  under  animal  food  there  is 
not  that  danger  to  corpulency  which  obtains  under  a  vegetable 
diet,  unless  from  thai  vegetable  diet  be  eliminated  those  particular' 
articles  that  contain  too  large  a  percentage  of  sugar  and  starch. 
To  sum  up,  science  teaches  us  that  a  liberal  supply  of  meat  is 
necessary  to  maintain  muscles  in  a  good  condition  for  work,  as 
exercise  is  to  make  them  firm  and  red,  and  the  result  of 
experience  tends  to  confirm  it. 

17.  None  the  less  is  it  necessary  to  limit  a  meat  diet  and 
dilute  it  with  a  proper  admixture  of  vegetable  and  other 
material,  and  only  where  it  becomes  a  question  of  reducing 
corpulency  does  it  matter  what  vegetable  is  taken  for  this 
purpose  or  relatively  the  amount.  In  these  pages  those 
vegetables  only  are  given  the  percentage  in  which  of  the 
fattening  principles  is  not  in  excess  of  what  the  system  can 
bear.  A  large  and  varied  choice  still  remains  to  satisfy  the 
ep'.cure  and  the  gourmet. 

18.  In  any  dietary  for  the  reduction  of  corpulence,  it  is 
necessary  to  bear  this  in  mind,  that  there  is  a  limit  beyond 


21.]  FOOD  REQUIRED,  AMOUNT  OF.  15 

which  it  is  not  safe  to  go,  and  under  no  circumstances  should 
the  loss  of  weight  exceed  one  pound  per  week.  If  this  should 
be  so,  the  diet  is  not  properly  adjusted  with  regard  to  its  con- 
stituents, but  is  simply  slow  starvation,  a  result  not  aimed  at 
in  these  pages,  or  desirable. 

19.  Let  us  proceed  to  consider  the  amount  of  mixed  food 
necessary  to  sustain  life,  health,  and  strength  under  different 
circumstances.  This  can  be  calculated  to  a  nicety,  but  the 
amount  taken  must  have  some  relation  to  the  amount  of 
muscular  work  that  the  individual  is  called  upon  to  exercise, 
the  season,  and  a  few  other  surroundings.* 

20.  It  will  be  asked,  What  is  the  ordinary  amount  of  mixed 
food  an  ordinary-sized  person  should  take?  An  average 
healthy  male  adult  of  medium  weight  and  height,  and  per- 
forming a  moderate  amount  of  work,  requires 

4 J  oz.  of  nitrogenous  food,t 
3  oz.  of  fats  (hydro-carbons) , 
14|-  oz.  of  carbo-hydrateS; I 
1  oz.  of  salts. 

This  diet  is  equivalent  to  a  little  over  46  oz,  of  moisl  solid 
food. 

21.  The  above  ingredients  would  be  contained  in  f  of  a  lb. 
of  meat  and  a  little  less  than  2  lb.  of  bread,  or  in  17  hens'  eggs 
of  ordinary  size,  supposing  eggs  only  were  eaten,  which  it  is 
needless  to  say  would  be  impossible. 

*  Prison  diet  where  hard  labour  is  done  consists  of  184  oz.  of  solid  dry 
food  per  week.  This  184  oz,  is  made  up  of  meat,  bread,  cocoa,  oatmeal, 
milk,  treacle,  barley-meal,  salt,  cheese,  flour,  suet,  carrots,  onions,  potatoes, 
Tliis  would  mean  about  52  oz.  of  moist  food  per  day  ;  for  of  course  the 
water  is  not  reckoned  when  the  amount  of  food  is  chemically  considered. 
Banting's  dietary  is  about  10  oz.  a  day  of  dry  food,  which  is  bare  subsis- 
tence diet,  but  it  contains  a  large  prcfportion  of  muscle-forming  ingredients 
too  large  for  continued  safety. 

t  This  embracts  meat  of  all  sorts — eggs,  milk,  and  certain  constituents 
of  vegetables. 

X  Carbo-hydrates  mean  bread,  sugar,  and  all  vegetables  containing  starch 
and  sugar. 


i6 


FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT, 


[22- 


22.  Dr.  Lyon  Playfair  has  estimated  the  quantity  of  diet 
required  under  varying  conditions  of  work  as  under : 


Subsistence  only        

Quietude 

Moderate  exercise     

Active  work 

Hard  work     

Nitrogenous. 

Carbonaceous. 

20  oz. 

2-5  „ 
4-2  „ 
5-5  „ 
6-5  „ 

13-3  oz. 
14-5  „ 
23-2  „ 
26  3  „ 
26-3  „ 

23.  It-  Will  thus  be  seen  that  subsistence  diet  would  be  re- 
presented by  about  28  oz.  of  ordinary  moist  food  per  day,  and 
bard  work  diet  by  about  60  oz.  of  the  same,  and  here  we  will 
taKe  the  amount  of  food  allowed  by  those  who,  like  Banting, 
form  a  dietary  for  the  reduction  of  corpulency. 

24.  It  is  admitted  that  the  human  body  decreases  in  fat  if 
the  daily  food  consists  of  the  three  great  gro^jps  of  food  in  the 
following  proportions : 

Albuminous  food  about  4J  oz., 

Fatty  food  1|  oz., 

Starchy  food  (carbo-hydrates)  5|  oz. 

This  means,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  about  22  oz.  of 
moist  food  daily,  and  this  is  not  sufficient  in  amount  for  safety. 

25.  Banting,  Ebstcin,  and  Oertel,  the  three  men  whose 
.systems  have  been  largely  adopted  for  reducing  obesity, 
advocate  the  different  foods  in  the  following  proportions  : 


Albuminous. 

Fat. 

Carbo-Hydrates. 

Bantinjj  ...          ...          ... 

Ebstein    ... 
1  Oertel 

1 

6 

H 

5i  to  6 

o 

24  to  3i 

26.  •  In  taking  appetite  as  a  guide  in  regulating  the  supply 
of  food,'  says  Dr.  Pavy,  '  it  must  not  be  confounded  wiih  u 


29.]  FOOD  REQUIRED,  AMOUNT  OF.  17 

desire  to  gratify  the  palate.  When  food  is  not  eaten  too 
quickly  and  the  diet  is  simple,  a  timely  warning  is  afforded  by 
the  sense  of  satisfaction  experienced  as  soon  as  enough  has 
been  taken,  and  not  only  does  a  disinclination  arise,  but  the 
stomach  even  refuses  it  if  this  amount  be  far  exceeded.  With 
a  variety  of  food,  however,  and  especially  food  of  an  agreeable 
character  to  the  taste,  the  case  is  different.  Satiated  with  one 
article,  the  stomach  is  still  ready  for  another,  and  thus,  for 
the  gratification  of  taste,  and  not  to  satisfy  appetite,  men  are 
tempted  to  consume  far  more  than  is  required,  and  also,  it 
must  be  said,  far  more  than  is  advantageous  to  health.' 

27.  Hospital  diet  furnishes  a  fair  estimate  of  what  is  neces- 
sary under  ordinary  circumstances,  and,  taking  Guy's  as  an 
example,  it  is  found  that  the  daily  allowance  is  29^  oz.  of 
solid  food,  apart  from  the  liquids  supplied.  This  amount 
would  represent  16J  oz.  of  water-free  material.  The  food 
actually  supplied  consists  of  4  oz.  of  cooked  meat,  ],2_oz.  of 
bread,  8  oz^of^tatoes,  1  oz.  of  butter,  f  oz.  of  sugar,  ^  oz.  of 
tea,  and"3J  oz.  of  rice-pudding,  made  of  rice,  sugar,  and  milk. 
There  is  also  a  daily  allowance  of  J  pint  of  porter  and  2|-  oz. 
of  milk.  This  diet  is  suflficient  for  the  wants  of  the  system 
under  a  condition  of  freedom  from  labour. 

28.  Supposing  this  quantity  of  food  were  used  for  the  re- 
duction of  fat  it  would  have  to  be  given  something  in  this 
way,  and  this  will  show  the  difference  in  the  constituents  of 
the  food  according  to  the  use  it  is  required  for : 

12  oz.  of  meat  (see  page  28), 

3  oz.  of  butter,  or  fat, 

4  oz.  of  bread,  or  dry  toast, 
10  oz.  of  vegetables, 

J  oz.  of  tea  (sweetened  with  saccharin), 
2  or  3  oz.  of  milk, 

and,  instead  of  porter,  a  pint  of  claret,  or  other  light  wine 
(bee  page  33),  daily. 

29.  In  this  case  the  above  amount  of  food  would  be  divided 

2 


l8  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [.^o- 

into  three  meals — breakfast,  lunch,  and  dinner ;  or  breakfast, 
dinner,  and  tea,  according  to  the  habits  of  the  individual -•- 
and  the  amount  of  starchy  or  farinaceous  feci  is  here  so 
limited  as  even  in  extreme  cases  to  be  practically  harmless. 

30.  A  diet  of  this  kind  would  be  unendurable  if  there  were 
no  variety ;  but  the  endeavour  of  the  author  has  been  to  give 
a  large  variety,  once  more  reminding  the  sufferer  that  food 
formed  on  this  basis  requires  a  larger  amount  of  exercise  to 
keep  the  system  in  health  than  does  the  ordinary  every-day 
diet  of  ordinar}  people. 

31.  Taking  Mr.  Banting's  system  first.  The  diet  for  re- 
ducing corpulency  advocated  by  him  is  now  considered  to 
have  been  wrong,  for  it  threw  too  much  work  upon  the 
kidneys  and  starved  the  system  elsewhere.  Banting  and  his 
ideas  have  passed  into  well-merited  oblivion. 

32.  The  Ebstein  formula,  which  has  many  adherents  in 
Germany,  consists  in  very  much  restricting  the  food  eaten, 
giving  a  large  portion  of  fat,  and  curtailing  those  articles  of 
diet  that  contain  sugar  and  starch,  his  theory  being  that  fat 
assists  in  the  body,  by  its  transformation  into  heat,  in  elimi- 
nating other  materials.  It  is  not  believed  now  that  fat  creates 
fat.  It  is  believed  that  by  its  combustion  in  the  economy 
it  keeps  up  heat,  and  at  the  same  time  oxidizes  waste  ;  in  short, 
it  acts  much  in  the  same  way  as,  in  a  railway-engine,  the  fuel 
acts  which  is  used  in  stoking. 

33.  The  system  of  diet  advocated  by  Oertel  not  only  pro- 
vides for  the  gradual  decrease  of  fat,  but  also  prevents  its 
reaccummulation,  and  at  the  same  time  restores  tone  to  the 
heart,  muscular  and  nervous  systems,  which  excessive  cor- 
pulency much  impairs. 

34.  A  very  moderate  curtailment  on  this  system  will  be 
sufficient  to  reduce  a  corpulent  person  to  resj^ectable  dimen- 
sions, if  at  the  same  time  active  riding  or  walking  exercise  be 
taken.  Kecieation,  by  improving  the  cjualUi/  of  the  blood,  as 
well  as  by  circulating  it  more  rapidly,  assists  the  oxidation — 
i.e.,  the  consumption  of  tissue,  especially  of  fatty  tissue — and 


38.]  FOOD  REQUIRED,  AMOUNT  OF.  19 

that  it  does  this  may  be  shown  by  the  fact  that  exercise 
absolutely  increases  the  size  of  muscles,  while  it  is  at  the 
same  time  reducing  weight. 

35.  There  is  really  no  difficulty  in  reducing  corpulence.  The 
difficulty  is  to  get  the  sufferer — generally  easy-going  and  in- 
dolent— to  carry  out  the  necessary  system,  which  is  more  or 
less  irksome  by  the  restraint  it  puts  upon  appetite,  especially 
in  those  who  perhaps  may  almost  be  said  to  'live  to  eat'  in- 
stead of  '  eating  to  live.'  It  is  also  needless  to  say  that  any 
sy.-tem,  however  good,  for  reducing  redundancy  of  fat  would 
be  of  no  avail  if  the  patient  persists  in  eating  and  drinking 
between  meals.* 

36.  Oertel  draws  two  distinctions  of  obesity,  namely,  the 
slight  form  in  which  the  organs  of  circulation  are  unaffected  ahd 
where  exercise  is  possible,  and  the  more  serious  form,  in  which 
fat  is  deposited  in  the  muscle  of  the  heart,  which  is  thereby 
dangerously  weakened,  and,  as  a  corollary,  the  healthy  action 
of  all  the  other  organs  in  the  body  is  interfered  with. 

37.  All  who  have  made  the  treatment  of  obesity  a  study 
reduce  considerably  the  amount  of  farinaceous  food  and  sugar, 
the  great  offenders  in  contributing  to  the  accumulation  of  fat ; 
but  all  do  not  allow  the  same  amount  of  aliment,  and  some  of 
the  dietaries — Banting's,  for  instance — would  be  simp'y  slow 
starvation  to  a  man  who  had  to  do  an  ordinary  amount  of 
hard  mental  or  bodily  work. 

38.  '  From  22  to  26  oz.  of  solids  and  about  35  oz.  of  liquids 
per  day  constituted  Mr.  Banting's  allowance.  If  we  allow  for 
water  chemically  combined  with  the  food,  the  daily  amount 
of  solids  may  be  set  down  at  from  11  to  13  oz.'  Now,  this  is 
far  from  a  generous  allowance,  even  if  it  were  of  the  most 
fattening  materials,  and  no  wonder  he  got  thin  on  it.  The 
diet  tables  of  prisons,  of  London  needlewomen,  and  that  of 
the   cotton  operative  during  the    Lancashire  cotton  famine, 


*  See  'Aids  to  Long  Life,'  by  the  same  author.     Chatto  and  Windus, 
London,  pp.  283. 

2—2 


20 


FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT, 


[39- 


of  fat,  f 


oz. 


averaged,  of  nitrogenous  matter  (meat),  2*30  oz 
and  of  starches  and  sugars,  11 J  oz. 

39.  Moleschott  gives  23  oz.  of  dry  food  as  about 
the  average  a  healthy  man  during  ordinary  work  ought 
to  eat ;  this  would  be  equal  to  nearly  twice  the  amount  of 
moist  food.  Assuming  that  this  large  amount  of  food  were 
deprived  of  the  great  fat  producers — sugar  and  starch — it  is 
not  too  much  to  say  that,  with  a  fair  amount  of  work,  there 
would  be  no  great  fear  of  a  person  becoming  obese  on  it. 
A  very  big  man  might  find  it  a  proper  diet. 

40.  The  following  figures  show  what  should  be  the  relative 
height  and  weight  of  a  person  of  adult  age  in  good  health : 


EXACT 
ft. 

5 

STATURE. 

in. 

1 

St. 

-      8 

MEAN 
lb. 

8 

WEIGHT, 
lb. 

or  120 

5 

2 

-      9 

0 

)5 

126 

5 

3 

-      9 

7 

55 

l;^3 

5 

4 

-      9 

13 

») 

139 

5 

5 

-    10 

2 

» 

142 

5 

G 

-    10 

5 

J) 

145 

5 

7 

-    10 

8 

J) 

148 

5 

8 

-    11 

1 

>) 

155 

5 

9 

.    11 

8 

)) 

162 

5 

10 

.    12 

1 

>> 

169 

5 

11 

.    12 

6 

>J 

174 

6 

0 

-    12 

10 

JJ 

178 

41.  It  reads  thus  :  a  man  in  his  clothes,  of  5  feet  8  inches, 
should  weigh  1 1  stone  1  lb. ;  he  may  exceed  this  by  7 
per  cent,  and  so  attain  11  stone  12  lb.  without  affecting 
his  vital  capacity ;  beyond  this  amount  his  respiration  be- 
comes diminished.* 


*  Among  the  Asiatics  there  is  a  sect  of  Brahmins  who  pride  themselves 
on  their  extreme  corpulency.  Their  diet  consists  of  farinaceous  vegetables, 
milk,  sugar,  sweetmeats,  and  ghee.  They  look  u]()n  corpulency  as  a  sign 
of  opulence  ;  and  many  arrive  at  a  great  degree  of  obesity  without  tasting 
anything  that  has  ever  lived. 


45.       FOOD:  ITS  USES  AND   ULTIMATE  ELIMINATION,     21 


FOOD :  ITS  USES  AND  ULTIMATE  ELIMINATION. 

42.  Popularly,  we  speak  of  the  products  we  oat  to  supply 
the  wants  of  the  system  as  '  food '  and  '  drink,'  and  the 
ordinary  individual  does  not  care  to  analyze  further  the 
meaning  of  the  words ;  but,  to  the  chemist,  they  have  a  far 
broader  meaning,  and  in  his  hands  their  different  properties 
and  uses  in  the  system  are  worked  out,  and  in  this  way,  by 
the  light  of  his  knowledge,  we  are  able  to  show  what  effects 
on  the  animal  economy  certain  foods  produce,  either  for  good 
or  harm. 

43.  The  chemist  broadly  divides  foods  into  two  classes. 
These  are  known  as 

The  Nitrogenous 

and  the 
Non-Nitrogenous. 

The  nitrogenous  class  of  foods  are  those  which  form  the 
essential  basis  of  structures  possessing  active  or  living  proper- 
ties, and  the  non-nitrogenous  principles  may  be  looked  upon  as 
supplying  the  source  of  power — in  other  words,  if  man  were 
looked  upon  as  a  steam-engine,  the  nitrogenous  food  would 
form  the  iron,  brass  and  works  of  the  engine,  and  the  non- 
nitrogenous  would  be  the  coal  or  any  other  fuel  used  in 
generating  power. 

44.  Now  what  constitutes  nitrogenous  food  1  The  answer 
is :  meat  of  all  kinds,  gelatine,  eggs,  milk,  and  certain  con- 
stituents of  vegetables,  such  as  gluten,  vegetable  fibrine  and 
caseine. 

45.  As  life  consists  in  the  constant  renovation  and  decay  of 
living  tissue,  and  as  living  tissue,  i.e.,  the  body,  is  made  up  of 
nitrogenous  matter,  it  is  therefore  absolutely  necessary  for  all 
the  operations  of  life,  and  is  the  instrument  of  living  action, 
and  out  of  it  are  formed  bone,  muscle,  nerves,  etc. 


22 


FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  ,        [46- 


46.  Non-nitrogenous"^  food  consists  of  fats,  starch — the  basis 
of  bread  and  all  farinaceous  foods — sugar,  alcohol,  and  certain 
vegetable  matters.  These  principles  are  found  either  naturally 
or  are  produced  by  chemical  action.  These  constituents  are 
used  in  the  animal  economy  to  keep  up  the  heat  of  the  body, 
generate  power,  and  when  not  consumed  or  eliminated  from 
the  system,  to  be  stored  up  as  fat. 

47.  Again,  taking  a  railway-engine  as  an  illustration,  it  is 
plain  that  if  rapid  speed  is  recpiired,  and  a  great  weight  has  to 
be  drawn,  a  greater  amount  of  fuel  must  be  consumed.  So,  in 
like  manner,  if  hard  work  has  to  be  done  for  many  houis 
a  day,  a  greater  amount  of.  food  must  be  taken,  and  this  is 
consumed  in  the  human  body  in  renovating  the  tissues  and 
generating  the  force  and  heat  according  to  the  nature  of  the 
food  used  and  its  amount. 

48.  That  this  is  the  case  may  be  instanced  by  this  fact 
amongst  many.  In  making  the  railway  from  Paris  to  Rouen, 
it  was  found  that  two  English  were  equal  to  three  French 
navvies.  An  examination  of  the  cause  disclosed  the  fact  tliat 
the  former  were  fed  on  large  quantities  of  m€at,f  while  the 
latter  ate  chiefly  soup  and  lentils.  The  diet  of  the  Frenchmen 
was  altered  to  the  English  standard,  with  the  result  that  the 
inequality  soon  disappeared. 

49.  Occupation,  season  and  climate  greatly  influence  the 
amount  and  kind  of  food  necessary.  The  inhabitants  of  cold 
climates  require  a  large  amount  of  fat  J  and  in  the  spring,  as 
vital  processes  are  more  active,  more  food  is  required.     On 

*  Chemists  further  divide  this  into  hydro-carbons,  or  fats,  and  carbo- 
hydrates, such  as  starch,  sugar,  etc.,  fats  being  principally  heat-producers, 
and  sugar  and  starch  power-producers.     This  of  course  is  a  rough  analysis. 

+  '  Nitrogenous  food  in  this  way  forming  the  instrument  of  living  action 
is  incessantly  being  disintegrated.  Becoming  thereby  effete  and  useles:*,  a 
fresh  supply  is  needed  to  replace  that  which  has  fulfilled  its  office.  Tlie 
primary  object  of  nitrogenous  alimentation  may  therefore  be  said  to  be 
the  development  and  renovation  of  the  living  tissues.' — De.  Pavy. 

X  A.n  Esquimaux  will  eat  10  lb.  or  12  lb.  of  blubber  daily  ;  and  their 
children  will  make  wry  faces  at  sugar,  but  eat  blubber  with  delight. 


52.]    FOOD:  ITS  USES  AND  ULTIMATE  ELIMINATION.       23 

the  other  hand,  muscular  work  demands  a  larger  supply  of 
nitrogenous  food,  i.e.,  meat.* 

50.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  as  in  the  human  body  certain 
foods  produce  muscle,  energy,  force,  and  power,  others,  by 
their  chemical  decomposition,  furnish  material  for  the  pro- 
duction of  heat.  It  is  plain  that  if  more  is  used  than  is  con- 
sumed in  these  ordinary  operations  of  life,  or  is  excreted  by 
the  bowels,  kidneys,  and  lungs,  it  must  remain  in  the  system 
contaminating  the  blood — as  with  gout-poison — or  equally  out 
of  place,  and  equally  destructive  to  comfort,  as  fat. 

51.  On  the  equable  assimilation  and  excretion  of  these 
different  classes  of  food  depends  the  health  and  comfort  of 
the  individual ;  but  from  faulty  diet,  heredity  or  mode  of 
life  in  many  persons,  the  balance  is  not  equally  held,  and  the 
waste  that  should  be  excreted,  or  consumed  by  exercise  or 
work,  becomes  stored  as  fat.t 

52.  '  The  rich  may  go  and  have  their  flues  swept  out  at  such 
places  as  Carlsbad,  Marienbad,  Kissingen,  and  Ems,  where  the 
meagre  diet  and  quantity  of  water  drunk  (because  it  is  the 
correct  thing  to  do  and  the  fashion,  and  because  example  has 
such  influence  for  good  or  evil  in  this  world)  will  soon  reduce 
their  superabundance  of  unhealthy  tissue  to  limits  compatible 
with  health  and  enjoyment.  But  the  middle  class  victim  of 
obesity  and  gout  must  be  content,  if  he  would  enjoy  life  and 
live  to  an  advanced  age,  to  take  the  advice  of  Socrates,  where 
he  says,  "  Beware  of  those  foods  that  tempt  you  to  eat  when 
you  are  not  hungry,  and  of  those  liquors  that  tempt  you  to 
drink  when  you  are  not  thirsty,"  and  make  dietetics  his  study 
to  the  extent  of  learning  what  foods  he  should  indulge  in,  and 
what  quantity  he  can  take  without  ultimate  discomfort.' 

*  The  trappers  of  the  American  prairies  can  live,  and  do  live,  for  weeks 
on  tneat  and  tea  only. 

t  Lord  Byron  undervalued  David  Hume,  denying  his  claim  to  g^^nius  on 
account  of  his  bulk,  and  calling  him  from  the  Heroic  Epistle  '  the  fattest  hog 
in  Epicurus'ssty.'  Another  of  this  extraordinary  man's  allegations  was  that 
'fat  is  an  oily  dropsy.'  To  stave  off  its  visitations  he  frequently  chewed 
tobacco  in  Hhu  of  dinner,  alleging  that  it  absorbed  the  gastric  juices  and 
prevented  hunger. — 'Rejected  Addresses,'  by  James  and  Horace  Smith. 


24  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  l53- 

USES  OF  FAT  IN  THE  BODY. 

53.  Though  excess  of  fat  is  an  evil  and  an  encumbrance,  it 
must  not  be  forgotten  that  a  twentieth  part  of  the  male  body 
should  be  of  this  substance,  and  a  sixteenth  part  of  that  of  the 
female.  This  may  be  slightly  increased  without  interfering  with 
the  breathing  capacity  or  the  comfort  of  the  individual. 

54.  A  moderate  amount  of  fat  is  one  of  the  signs  of  health, 
and  is  certainly  an  adjunct  to  beauty  of  face  and  form,  and  its 
uses  in  the  animal  economy  are  many  and  various.  In  the 
first  place,  it  serves  the  merely  mechanical  purpose  of  a  light, 
soft,  and  elastic  packing  material,  which,  being  deposited 
between  and  around  the  different  organs,  affords  them  support 
and  protection  from  the  injurious  effects  of  pressure.  Further, 
being  a  bad  conductor  of  heat,  the  fat  beneath  the  skin  serves 
to  some  extent  as  a  means  of  retaining  the  warmth  of  the  body. 

55.  But  the  most  important  use  of  fat  is  seen  in  w^hat  occurs 
during  the  process  of  nutrition  ;  for  when  more  fat-forming 
material  is  taken  into  the  system  than  is  absolutely  required 
for  the  maintenance  of  the  body,  it  is  stored  up  and  laid  by 
to  become  available  for  use  when  the  expenditure  exceeds  the 
immediate  suj^ply. 

56.  When  tiie  direct  supplj^  of  nourishment  is  cut  off,  by 
withholding  it,  or  by  the  interruption  of  the  process  of 
digestion,  nature  has  recourse  to  that  which  has  been  laid 
up  in  reserve  in  the  form  of  fat.  As  everyone  knows,  in  the 
wasting  of  the  body  which  ensues  as  the  result  of  starvation, 
fat  is  the  first  part  consumed.*     But  it  has  been  found  by 

*  On  the  14th  of  December,  1810,  a  pig  was  buried  in  its  sty  by  the  fall  of 
part  of  the  chalk  cliflf  under  Dover  Castle.  On  the  23rd  of  May,  160  days 
afterwards,  Mr.  Manttll,  the  contractor,  was  told  by  some  workmen  employeii 
in  removing  the  fallen  chalk  that  they  heard  the  whining  of  the  pig,  and 
although  he  had  great  doubt  of  the  fact,  he  urged  them  to  proceed  with 
clearing  away  the  chalk  from  the  sty,  and  was  soon  afterwards  surprised 
to  see  the  pig  extricated  from  its  confinement  alive.  At  the  time  of  the 
accident  the  pig  was  in  a  fat  condition,  and  supposed  to  have  weighed  about 
160  lb.  When  extricated  it  presented  an  extremely  emaciated  appearance, 
and  weighed  no  more  than  40  lb. 


6o.]  USES  OF  FAT  IN  THE  BODY,  25 

experiment  that  life  cannot  be  sustained  on  fat  alone.  A 
duck  fed  on  fat  only  died  of  starvation  at  the  end  of  three 
weeks.  Batter,  it  is  said,  exuded  from  all  parts  of  its  body, 
and  the  feathers  seemed  as  if  they  had  been  soaked  in  melted 
butter.  Similarly  animals  fed  on  fat  and  arrowroot  mixed  will 
die  of  starvation,  or  on  meat  alone  ;  but  if  hone  be  given  with 
the  meat,  it  is  sufficient  to  support  life  for  any  length  of  time. 
This  is  the  reason  why  wild  animals  in  confinement  have  bone 
given  them  with  their  meat. 

57.  The  following  experiments  made  will  show  what  part 
the  different  constituents  of  food  play  in  the  economy.  A 
couple  of  rats,  which  had  been  nearly  brought  to  the  verge  of 
death  by  restriction  to  starchy  matter  and  fat,  were  fed  with 
bread  and  meat  for  four  days,  and  then  with  meat  alone.  A 
week  after  commencing  the  meat  their  united  weight  was 
9  oz.  IJ  dr.,  and  three  weeks  later  10  oz.  1  dr.  Being  now 
placed  on  a  diet  of  meat  with  non-nitrogenous  food  (starch  and 
fat),  a  notable  improvement  occurred  ;  for  in  three  days'  time 
they  weighed  11  oz.  ;  four  days  later,  14  oz.  2  dr. ;  and  a 
week  later  still,  14  oz.  4  dr. 

58.  In  another  experiment,  two  rats,  weighing  12  oz.,  were 
placed  on  an  exclusive  diet  of  lean  meat  and  water.  They 
remained  healthy  in  appearance,  but  steadily  lost  weight,  and  in 
a  month's  time  weighed  only  8f  oz.  They  were  now  placed 
on  a  miscellaneous  diet,  and  in  a  week's  time  weighed 
12i  oz. 

59.  In  a  third  experiment  two  rats,  weighing  together 
12  oz.  7  dr.,  were  kept  upon  meat  diet  exclusively.  On  the 
thirteenth  day  one  of  the  rats  died,  the  weight  of  its  body  being 
2  oz.  8  dr.,  and  that  of  the  other  6  oz.  3  dr.  The  living  one 
was  still  kept  on  the  same  food,  and  this  died  ten  days  later, 
the  weight  of  its  body  being  then  5  oz.  It  will  thus  be  seen 
that  meat  alone  will  not  sustain  animal  life  for  an  indefinite 
period. 

60.  What  the  uses  of  fat  are  in  the  food  will  be  found  else- 
where, but  we  may  remark  here  that  it  sustains  the  heat  of  the 


26  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [6i 

body.  The  Esquimaux  eat  fat  as  we  do  bread.  Dr.  Pavy,  in 
his  work  on  'Dietetics,'  says  :  '  Travellers  have  dilated  on  the 
large  amount  of  food  consumed  by  the  inhabitants  of  cold,  as 
compared  with  that  consumed  by  those  of  temperate  or  hot 
climates.  Accounts  are  given  which  almost  appear  incredible 
regarding  the  enormous  quantities  of  food  devoured  by  dwellers 
in  the  Arctic  regions.  Thus  Sir  John  Eoss  states  that  an 
Esquimaux  "perhaps  eats  twenty  pounds  of  flesh  and  oil 
daily."  Sir  W.  Parry,  as  a  matter  of  curiosity,  one  day  tried 
how  much  food  an  Esquimaux  lad,  scarcely  full-grown,  would 
consume  if  allowed  his  full  tether.  The  food  was  weighed, 
and,  besides  fluids,  he  got  through  in  twenty-four  hours  8^  lb. 
of  flesh  and  If  lb.  of  bread,  and  "  did  not  consider  the  quantity 
extraordinary." ' 

61.  Sir  George  Simpson,  from  his  travelling  experience  in 
Siberia,  says  :  '  In  one  highly  important  particular  the  Zakuti 
may  safely  challenge  the  rest  of  the  world.  They  are  the  best 
eaters  on  the  face  of  the  earth.'  Having  heard  more  on  this 
subject  than  he  could  bring  himself  to  believe,  he  resolved  to 
test  the  matter  by  the  evidence  of  his  own  senses.  He  pro- 
cured a  couple  of  men  who  had,  he  states,  a  tolerable  reputa- 
tion in  that  way,  and  prepared  a  dinner  for  them,  consisting  of 
36  lb.  avoirdupois  of  beef  and  18  lb.  of  butter. 

62.  By  the  end  of  an  hour  they  had  got  through  a  half  of 
their  allowance  in  Sir  George  Simpson's  presence.  Their 
stomachs  at  this  time  projected  '  into  a  brace  of  kettledrums.' 
They  were  then  left  in  charge  of  deputies,  and  Sir  George  was 
assured,  on  returning  two  hours  later,  that  all  had  been  con- 
sumed. He  remarks  that  after  such  surfeits,  the  gluttons 
remain  for  three  or  four  days  in  a  state  of  stupor,  neither 
eating  nor  drinking,  and  meanwhile  are  rolled  about  with  a  view 
to  the  promotion  of  digestion. 

63.  '  He  who  is  well  fed,'  remarks  Sir  John  Eoss,  '  resists 
cold  better  than  the  man  who  is  stinted,  while  the  starvation 
from  cold  follows  but  too  soon  a  starvation  in  food.'  He 
says  further,   '  All  experience  has  shown  that  a  large  use  of 


6;.]    EVILS  OF  OVER-EATING,  AND  TIME  FOR  MEALS.      27 

oil  and  fat  meats  is  the  true  secret  of  life  in  these  frozen 
countries.'  Sir  Jolin  Franklin  also  states  :  '  During  the  whole 
of  our  march  we  experienced  that  no  quantity  of  clothing 
could  keep  us  warm  while  we  fasted ;  but  on  those  occasions 
on  which  we  were  enabled  to  go  to  bed  with  full  stomachs,  we 
passed  the  night  in  a  warm  and  comfortable  manner/ 

64.  These  remarks  will  show  that  the  use  of  fat  is  not  so 
much  to  make  fat  as  to  keep  up  the  heat  of  the  body  by  its 
combustion,  and  as  also  to  act  as  a  store-house  of  fuel  to  draw 
upon,  when  required  for  the  operations  of  life. 

EVILS  OF  OVEE-EATING,  AND  TIME  FOE  MEALS. 

65.  There  is  far  more  harm  done  by  taking  too  much  food 
than  there  is  by  taking  too  little,  and  it  is  only  in  very  ex- 
ceptional cases  that  injury  results  from  the  latter  cause ; 
whereas  an  enormous  amount  of  discomfort,  disorder,  and 
disease,  and  even  curtailment  of  life,  arise  from  excess  in 
eating  and  drinking.  Where  the  individual  lives  plainly  and 
simply,  and  only  obeys  the  cravings  of  nature  to  the  extent 
of  satisfying  them,  there  is  no  need  for  weights  and  scales ; 
but  how  many  are  there  not,  who  would  be  far  more  comfortable 
and  more  healthy  if  they  lived  upon  a  measured  amount  of 
food  and  drink  ? 

66.  There  are  many  other  evils  beyond  corpulence  that 
result  from  excess  in  eating,  and  a  badly  arranged  dietary. 
Among  them  may  be  mentioned  a  deranged  digestion,  a  loaded 
tongue,  an  oppressed  stomach,  vitiated  secretions,  a  gorged 
liver,  plethora  and  its  consequences,  a  sluggish  brain,  with 
horrible  dreams  during  sleep,  and  depression  when  awake. 

67.  Excess  in  animal  food  is  as  bad  as  excess  in  vegetable, 
if  it  is  combined  with  an  indolent  mode  of  life.  Whereas 
excess  of  vegetable  food  of  certain  kinds  leads  to  obesity, 
excess  of  animal  food,  if  not  accompanied  by  exercise,  leads  to 
the  accumulation  in  the  system  of  the  materials  that  form 
gout. 


28  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [6S- 

68.  As  man  is  designed  by  nature  to  consume  a  mixed  diet, 
we  may  proceed  to  consider  when  and  at  what  intervals  food 
should  be  taken.  The  ordinary  custom  is  that  three  meals 
should  be  taken  daily,  at  intervals  of  five  or  six  hours  apart, 
and  this  has  been  found  by  experience  to  be  best  suited  to  our 
requirements.  This  allows  a  short  period  of  quiescence  for 
the  stomach.  The  size  of  the  meal  should  be  regulated  ac- 
cording to  the  estimate  given  on  page  17,  always  having 
regard  to  the  fact  that  increased  muscular  work  will  allow  for 
increased  diet. 

69.  Sex  also  and  age  influence  the  amount  of  food  required. 
A  woman  on  the  average  takes  a  tenth  part  less  than  a  man  ; 
and  during  growth  more  food  is  necessary  to  minister  to  the 
bodily  functions,  which  are  then  more  active,  as  well  as  to 
supply  materials  for  increase.  After  forty,  the  diet,  if  long 
life  is  to  be  enjoyed,  should  be  sparing. 

AMOUNT  OF  FOOD  TO  BE  CONSUMED. f 

70.  To  prevent  the  accumulation  of  fat  in  those  of  this  pre- 
disposition, the  following  system  of  diet  should  be  pursued  : 

71.  Breakfast. — One  large  cup  of  tea  or  coffee,  with  a 
little  milk  and  one  or  two  saccharine  tabloids,"^  with  2  or  3  oz. 
of  bread  or  dry  toast,  very  thinly  buttered,  or,  instead  of 
butter,  3  or  4  oz.  of  any  light  meat  or  fish,  contained  in 
breakfast  dishes. 

72.  LuKCH  OR  Dinner. — An  ordinary  dish  of  any  soup 
found  in  the  section  devoted  to  that  aliment;  7  or  8  oz.  of 
roast  or  boiled  meat,  fish,  or  any  meat  dish  that  may  be  chosen 
in  the  following  pages  ;  an  ordinary  amount  of  any  vegetable 
given  under  that  head  ;  a  small  plate  of  any  non-farinaceous 
pudding,  whicli  see ;  and  5  or  6  oz.  of  any  fruit,  if  cooked, 

■••■■  These  may  be  procured  at  a  moderate  cost,  in  any  of  our  larger  cities, 
from  the  leading  druggists  and  dealers  in  chemists'  supplies,  and  should  be 
used  by  the  corpulent  with  all  things  that  require  sweetening. 

f  See  page  46. 


79-]  AMOUNT  OF  FOOD  TO  BE  CONSUMED.  29 

sweetened  with  saccharine,  with  six  or  eight  ounces  of  any 
light  wine,  such  as  claret.* 

73.  Evening  Meal. — Tea,  coffee,  as  at  breakfast,  or  6  to 
8  oz.  of  light  wine,  diluted  or  not ;  dry  toast,  or  a  little 
bread,!  with  boiled  eggs,  fish,  or  any  meat  dish  that  may  be 
chosen ;  and,  as  a  nightcap,  a  glass  of  whisky  and  water,  with 
a  few  gluten  biscuits,  taken  just  before  retiring  to  rest. 

74.  This  diet,  it  is  needless  to  say,  may  be  increased  if  the 
subject  does  a  large  amount  of  daily  work,  but  in  the  same 
ratio  of  quality  of  food.  The  reader  may  refer  to  Dr.  Lyon 
Playfair's  table  given  in  page  16. 

75.  Indeed,  the  case  may  be  considered  a  sad  one,  if  even  a 
very  liberal  allowance  of  the  cookery  in  these  pages  may  not 
be  taken  with  impunity  and  a  gradual  reduction  of  weight, 

EXERCISE. 

76.  In  the  treatment  of  corpulency  this  is  of  the  greatest 
importance.  The  muscle  of  the  heart  is  strengthened  by 
enforced  exercise,  and  the  waste  of  the  system  burnt  off. 

77.  The  nutrition  of  the  muscles  is  improved  by  exercise. 
The  blood  which  they  contain  is  increased,  and  in  consequence 
of  this  increased  afflux  of  blood  and  the  more  rapid  disintegra- 
tion going  on  in  the  muscles,  they  become  harder  and  larger, 
and  better  able  to  bear  fatigue. 

78.  The  action  of  the  skin  is  increased,  and  by  perspiration 
the  effete  matters  in  the  system  are  got  rid  of.  The  vital 
capacity  of  the  lungs  is  increased  by  exercise.  Digestion 
becomes  more  perfect  where  exercise  is  indulged  in,  and  the 
nervous  system  is  improved  in  nutrition  and  power. 

79.  Dr.  Parkes,  a  well-known  authority  on  the  amount  of 

*  See  section  on  Wine,  page  33. 

f  Several  well-known  American  manufacturers  prepare  a  gluten  bread 
suitable  for  fat  people,  as  well  as  other  similar  specialties — soups,  fruits, 
gluten  biscuits,  etc.  It  may  be  mentioned  that  gluten  bread  or  gluten  bis- 
cuits do  not  contain  anxy  fattening  principles,  as  the  starch  of  the  farina  is 
carefully  eliminated. 


30  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [So 

exercise  desirable,  says  the  average  daily  work  of  a  man 
engaged  in  manual  labour  in  the  open  air  is  equivalent  to 
liftins:  250  to  350  tons  one  foot  hio;h.  This  is  a  moderate 
amount,  400  tons  being  a  heavy  day's  work.  The  amount  of 
muscular  work  involved  in  this  may  be  easily  known  by 
remembering  that  a  walk  of  20  miles  on  the  level  road  is 
equivalent  to  about  353  tons  lifted  one  foot;  and  that  a 
walk  of  10  miles  is  equivalent  to  lifting  247  tons  one  foot 
high.* 

80.  *  We  may  estimate  that  every  healthy  man  ought  to 
take  an  amount  of  exercise  represented  by  150  tons  raised  one 
foot,  which  is  equal  to  the  work  done  by  walking  8|  to  9 
miles  on  a  level  road.  A  certain  amount  of  this  exercise  is 
taken  in  performing  one's  daily  work ;  but  apart  from  this, 
outdoor  exercise  should  be  taken  daily  equivalent  in  amount 
to  a  walk  of  5  or  6  miles.  Less  than  this  is  not  compatible 
with  robust  health.' 

81.  Exercise  should  be  systematic  and  regular,  not  taken  by 
fits  and  starts,  and  in  corpulent  people  should  be  increased 
gradually.  The  under-clothing  should  be  of  flannel,  and  chill 
should  be  guarded  against.  Lawn-tennis  in  summer  supplies 
the  best  form  of  exercise.  Walking  uphill  strengthens  the 
heart,  and  the  distance  and  speed  should  be  increased  as 
palpitation  subsides. 

82.  Eiding  exercise,  where  practicable,  has  a  stimulating 
action  on  the  liver  and  skin,  and  may  be  considered  the  best 
form  of  all  exercise.  Rowing  is  also  an  excellent  mode  of 
taking  exercise.  The  more  muscles  that  can  be  brought  into 
play  the  better. 

83.  Exercise  should  not  be  taken  immediately  after  food, 
nor  should  the  individual  who  is  anxious  to  reduce  corpulency 
gratify  the  desire  for  a  nap.  It  is  well  to  have  recourse  to 
some  light  mental  or  bodily  employment,  such  as  billiards, 
chess,  etc.,  to  obviate  its  occurrence;  'but,'  as  Dr.  Pavy 
remarks,   '  with  a  natural  state  of  things,  there  ought  to  be 

*  Newsholme, 


86.]  EXERCISE.  31 

no  strong  desire  to  sleep  after  a  meal.*  If  there  be  such, 
it  may  be  concluded  that  some  fault  exists.  Sleeping  aftei' 
meals  may  arise  from  a  sluggish  state  of  the  liver  or  kidneys. 
In  this  case  medical  treatment  is  called  for. 

84.  When  any  living  part  is  called  into  frequent  and  regular 
exercise,  especially  if  the  system  is  not  yet  arrived  at  full 
maturity,  it  is  observed  to  become  gradually  more  and  more 
susceptible  of  action — to  increase  in  size  within  certain  limits, 
determined  by  the  constitution,  and  thereby  to  gain  strength, 
as  indicated^.by  an  increased  power  of  enduring  fatigue  and 
a  greater  capacity  of  withstanding  the  influences  of  the  com- 
mon causes  of  disease,  to  which  previously  it  would  have 
almost  immediately  succumbed. 

85.  The  explanation  of  this,  as  proved  by  experiment,  is 
that  exercise  causes  an  increased  action  in  the  nerves  and 
bloodvessels  of  the  part,  by  which  its  vitality  is  augmented 
and  a  greater  supply  of  blood  and  nervous  stimulus  is  sent  to 
it  to  sustain  and  repair  the  greater  waste  that  is  taking  place, 
and  also  to  supply  additional  substance  to  fit  it  for  the  unusual 
demands  made  on  it.  The  results  of  this  process  are  visibly 
exemplified  in  men  whose  habits  or  profession  lead  them  to 
constant  muscular  exertion — in  sportsmen,  in  blacksmiths, 
dancers,  porters,  etc.,  for  instance;  and  if  it  is  less  manifest  in 
other  'parts  of  the  body  beyond  the  muscles  in  view,  it  is  only  from 
other  tissues  admitting  of  less  expansion  and  showing  their 
increased  power  in  a  ditferent  way. 

86.  Unless  exercise  in  its  ordinary  sense  be  taken,  neither 
respiration  nor  circulation  can  fully  accomplish  the  purposes 
they  are  intended  to  serve.  Life  subsists  through  a  series  of 
motions,  and  all  these  should  be  maintained  in  regular  and 
adequate  exercise  ;  by  so  doing  the  food  necessary  to  sustain 
the  system  is  taken  up,  and  all  that  is  not  required  is  excreted 
by  the  different  organs  that  act  independently  of  the  will,  so 
that  the  balance  is  evenly  kept,  and  none  in  unnecessarily 
stored  as  fat. 


32  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [87- 

STIMULANTS  IN  CORPULENCY. 

87.  What  part  does  alcohol,  in  its  various  forms,  play  in  the 
dietary  1  Chemists  who  have  investigated  the  effect  of  alcohol 
on  the  system  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  it  is  not  Sifood, 
and  does  not  in  any  way  make  flesh  or  tissue,  but  in  some 
cases  it  seems  to  increase  the  value  of  other  foods  taken. 
Whether  pure  alcohol  increases  or  diminishes  fat  is  still  a 
moot  point.  Some  physiologists  believe  that  it  assists  in 
eliminating  waste  products,  while  others  hold  that  it  has  no 
eff'ect  of  this  kind  whatever,  and  that  it  passes  out  of  the  body 
unchanged. 

88.  That  it  is  injurious  beyond  a  certain  amount  is  certain, 
and  that  amount  is  represented  by  about  a  sixth  of  a  pint  of 
spirits,  about  half  a  pint  of  sherry,  or  a  pint  of  claret  or  other 
light  wine  daily.  As  alcohol  is  contained  in  all  wines  and  fer- 
mented drinks,  experiments  prove  that  to  the  other  consti- 
tuents of  these  beverages  we  must  look  for  their  fattening 
properties — thus,  in  wine,  to  the  sugar;  and  in  ale,  stout, 
and  other  fermented  liquors,  to  the  sugar  and  starch  they 
contain. 

89.  That  beer  and  stout  are  unsuited  to  fat  people  there  can 
be  no  question.  That  the  English  and  Germans  who  drink ^ 
largely  of  beer  are  more  inclined  to  be  corpulent  than  the 
Scotch  or  Irish,  who  drink  more  of  spirits,  is  a  well-known  fact. 
The  stronger  beers  taken  to  excess  in  people  of  a  corpulent  habit 
are  also  apt  to  lead  to  the  development  of  gout  and  biliousness. 

90.  It  becomes  a  question  now  to  consider  the  least  in- 
jurious form  in  which  alcohol  may  be  partaken  of  by  those 
who  require  it,  or  think  they  do  so.  To  the  ordinary  indi- 
vidual, good  wine,  properly  matured,  in  moderate  quantity,  is 
a  harmless  and  exhilarating  drink  ;*  but  to  those  of  a  corpu- 

*  Especially  does  this  apply  to  that  period  of  life  when  the  powers  of 
elimination  are  declining,  and  the  individual,  from  the  exigencies  of  age 
and  failing  strength,  is  unable  to  take  the  active  exercise  necessary  to  con- 
sume the  waste  products  of  the  body. 


94.]  STIMULANTS  IN  CORPULENCY.  33 

lent  habit  of  body,  certain  wines  are  a  slow  poison,  and  it 
becomes  necessary  in  a  work  like  this  to  say  a  few  words  on 
so  important  a  subject. 

91.  The  deleterious  wines  for  people  constitutionally  dis- 
posed to  stoutness  are  those  which  contain  sugar,  either  by 
arrest  of  fermentation  or  by  the  addition  of  sugar,  and  these 
are,  as  a  rule,  the  products  of  hot  countries.  In  France, 
Germany,  or  Hungary,  etc.,  where  a  cooler  climate  prevails, 
fermentation  occurs  with  less  rapidity,  and  is  allowed  to 
proceed  till  it  comes  to  a  spontaneous  termination. 

92.  '  Here,  then,  the  transformation  of  saccharine  matter  is 
permitted  to  go  on  until  it  is  quite,  or  nearly  lost,  and  in  con- 
sequence there  is  produced  a  drier  or  less  fruity  wine,  and 
one  which  takes  less  time  to  mature.'  Wines  of  this  class 
develop  a  stronger  bouquet  and  a  more  acid  flavour,  and 
they  are  admitted  to  be  in  every  way  more  suited  for  stout 
people  of  sedentary  habit.  The  wines  of  the  Ehine  and  the 
Moselle  are  noted  for  the  aroma  they  pjossess,  and  the  greater 
amount  of  acid  they  contain,  and  their  freedom  from  sugar. 
The  same  applies  to  some  of  the  wines  of  the  South  of  France 
known  as  clarets  and  burgundies. 

93.  Burgundies  suit  best  those  who  require  an  excess  of 
alcoholic  strength ;  but  they  do  not  keep  well,  and  sometimes 
undergo  a  second  fermentation,  through  mouldiness  in  the 
bottle.  The  grand  old  vintage  wines,  such  as  Chambertin,* 
Glos  Vougeot,  etc.,  are  sufficiently  alcoholized  not  to  decompose, 
but  their  strength  and  price  do  not  fit  them  for  ordinary 
consumption.  The  peculiar  odour  of  wall-flowers  is  character- 
istic of  the  choicer  burgundies,  but  they  are  necessarily  of 
high  price. 

94.  The  choice  Ehine  wines  —  moselle,  chablis,  chateau 
Yquem — bear  carriage  badly  and  are  best  drunk  in  their  own 
country  ;  but  there  are  j^lenty  of  good  claret  and  light  wine 
brands   to   which   this   does   not   apply.     The   wines   to    be 

*  The  great  Napoleon  drank  this  wine,  but  he  was  an  exceedingly  abste- 
mious mitn. 

'3 


34  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [95- 

avoided  are  sweet  wines,  such  as  port,  sherry,  champagne, 
tokay,  madeira,  etc. 

95.  The  wine-drinker,  if  he  is  subject  to  obesity  or  gout, 
places  his  health  and  comfort  in  the  hands  of  his  vrme, 
merchant.  So  he  should  choose  one  of  known  probity, 
whose  good  name  would  be  too  valuable  a  heritage  to  lose  by 
palming  off  adulterated  wines  and  poUoaous  new  spirits  for  the 
sake  of  present  profit. 

96.  Always  remembering  that  a  pint  of  light  wine  daily 
should  not  be  much  exceeded,  the  corpulent  person  may  with 
his  soup  drink  a  glass  of  sauterne  ;*  with  his  fish  a  glass  of 
Rhine  wine,  such  as  Erbach  or  Steinberg,  ;  with  his  meat  or 
game  a  glass  of  burgundy,  and  with  his  cigar  after,  some  weak 
whisky  or  cognac  and  water,  or  tea  or  coffee  sweetened  with  a 
tabloid  of  saccharin. 


TEA :  ITS  USE. 

97.  Tea  is  not  food,  and  should  not  be  taken  as  such.  Tea 
taken  three  or  four  hours  after  dinner  is  valuable,  for  this  is 
the  time  that  corresponds  with  the  completion  of  digestion, 
when,  the  food  having  been  conveyed  away  from  the  stomach, 
nothing  remains  but  the  acid  juices  employed  in  digestion. 
These  acid  juices  create  an  uneasy  sensation  in  the  stomach, 
and  a  call  is  made  for  something  to  relieve  this  uneasiness. 
Tea  fulfils  this  object  better  than  stimulants ;  more  than  this, 
it  satisfies  some  unknown  want  in  the  system.  This  refers  to 
the  moderate  use  and  enjoyment  of  tea,  but  there  is  a  large 
class  who  drink  an  enormous  quantity  of  this  beverage,  to  the 
undoubted  impairment  of  their  health. 

98.  Those  who  take  it  to  excess  are  found  principally 
among   the   poor.     They  become  pale  and   bloodless,   much 

*  The  wines  recommended  by  the  author  are  kept  by  numerous  American 
dealers  in  our  larger  cities.  Be  sure  to  purchase  of  parties  whose  wares  may 
be  trusted  to  be  what  they  are  represented. 


loi.]  TEA  :  ITS  USE.  35 

given  to  faintness,  nervousness,  and  depression  of  spirits,  and 
suffer  excessively  from  flatulence  and  loss  of  appetite.  This 
is  no  doubt  partly  due  to  poisons  used  to  colour  and  adulterate 
it.  Many  women  ruin  their  digestive  powers  by  taking  large 
quantities  of  weak  tea  three  or  four  times  a  day.  One  form 
of  indigestion  caused  by  tea  deserves  special  notice,  as  it  is 
commonly  observed  by  medical  men  :  the  appetite  is  unim- 
paired, and  no  particularly  unpleasant  sensations  are  felt  after 
meals,  but  almost  as  soon  as  food  is  taken  it  seems  to  pass  out 
of  the  stomach  into  the  bowels,  causing  flatulent,  colicky 
pains,  speedily  followed  by  diarrhoea.  Hence,  there  is  a 
constant  craving  for  food  and  a  feeling  of  sinking  and 
prostration. 

99.  In  some  instances,  these  symptoms  only  occur  in  the 
morning ;  in  others,  they  follow  every  meal,  and  lead  to  serious 
loss  of  flesh,  and  also  to  alarm.  It  is  needless  to  say  the 
remedy  is  to  take  less  tea,  and  add  plenty  of  milk  to  it,  or 
for  a  time  to  change  to  coff"ee  or  cocoa.  In  moderate  quantity, 
tea  exerts  a  very  decidedly  stimulant  and  restorative  action 
on  the  nervous  system,  which  is  aided  by  the  warmth  of  the 
infusion,  and  is  particularly  useful  in  over-fatigued  conditions 
of  the  system,  and  under  these  circumstances  it  is  infinitely 
preferable  to  alcoholic  drinks.  Lord  Wolseley  considers  it  is 
the  best  drink  for  exhausted  soldiers  after  a  long  march. 

■  100.  The  harmful  eff'ects  of  tea  depend  a  great  deal  on  the 
way  it  is  made.  If  it  is  allowed  to  infuse  too  long,  the  tannin 
and  other  injurious  ingredients  of  even  the  best  tea  are  drawn 
out,  and  the  infusion  becomes  bitter  and  astringent,  and  un- 
pleasant to  the  taste.  To  make  tea  properly,  the  teapot 
should  be  warmed,  and  the  water  poured  over  the  tea  im- 
mediately it  boils.  Five  teaspoonfuls  of  mixed  tea  should  be 
put  to  each  quart  of  boiling  water,  and  it  should  draw  for 
eight  minutes.  Professional  tea-tasters  are  very  particular  to 
use  only  water  which  is  freshly  boiled. 

101.  In  China  tea  is  sometimes  infused  in  a  teacup,  and 
sometimes  in  the  cup  from  which  it  is  drunk.     In  Japan  the 

o. 9 


36  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [102- 

tea-I eaves  are  ground  to  powder,  and,  after  infusion  in  a  tea- 
cup, the  mixture  is  beaten  up  until  it  becomes  frothy,  and 
then  the  whole  is  swallowed.  The  Chinese  drink  their  tea  in 
a  pure  state ;  the  Russians  take  it  with  lemon-juice ;  and  the 
Germans  often  flavour  it  with  rum,  cinnamon,  or  vanilla.  In 
America  we  know  it  is  customary  to  add  cream,  milk,  or  sugar, 
but  for  corpulent  people  the  Russian  mode  would  be  the  best. 

102.  The  only  way  by  which  ordinary  people  can  detect 
adulteration  of  tea  is  by  unfolding  the  leaf  after  it  has  been 
used.  In  pure  tea  this  is  serrated  (like  the  edge  of  a  saw) 
almost  its  whole  length,  and  the  veins  run  out  from  the 
tendrils  nearly  to  the  border  and  then  turn  in,  so  that  a  dis- 
tinction is  left  between  them  and  the  border.  The  leaf  may 
vary  in  shape  and  size.  The  leaves  used  to  adulterate  tea 
are  the  sloe,  hawthorn,  beech,  and  willow.  Tea-leaves,  when 
freshly  gathered,  are  destitute  of  odour  and  flavour.  The 
pleasant  taste  and  aroma  for  which  they  are  so  highly  valued 
are  developed  in  the  process  of  drying. 

103.  Either  black  or  green  tea  may  be  prepared  at  will  from 
the  same  leaves,  gathered  at  the  same  time  and  under  the  same 
circumstances.  It  is  the  lengthened  exposure  to  the  air  in  the 
process  of  drying,  accompanied  by  a  slight  heating  and  fermen- 
tation, that  give  the  dark  colour  and  the  distinguishing  flavour 
to  the  black  teas  of  the  shops.  The  practice  of  scenting  teas 
for  the  foreign  markets  is  common  in  China,  and  many  teas, 
especially  green  teas,  are  artificially  coloured  with  Prussian 
blue,  indigo,  and  burnt  gypsum.  It  is  said  that  one  day  an 
English  gentleman  at  Shanghai,  being  in  conversation  with 
some  Chinese  from  the  green-tea  country,  asked  them  what 
reason  they  had  for  dyeing  the  tea,  and  whether  it  would  not 
be  better  without  undergoing  that  process.  They  acknow- 
ledged that  tea  was  much  better  when  prepared  without 
having  such  ingredients  mixed  with  it,  and  that  they  never 
drank  dyed  teas  themselves ;  but  that,  as  foreigners  seemed  to 
prefer  having  poisonous  ingredients  mixed  with  their  tea  to 
make  it  look  pretty,  and  as  these  poisons  were  cheap,  the 


lo;.]  TEA :  ITS  USE,  37 

Chinese  had  no  objection  to  supply  them,  especially  as  such 
teas  fetched  a  higher  price. 

104.  Tea  being  an  article  of  daily  and  universal  use,  the 
following  rules  should  be  observed  :  1.  Don't  buy  high-priced 
or  highly-flavoured  teas,  especially  if  green,  as  they  owe  their 
flavour  to  noxious  matters.  2.  Take  a  good  proportion  of 
milk  with  the  infusion.  3.  Let  the  quantity  used  at  each 
infusion  be  very  moderate.  4.  Make  the  infusion  properly 
with  boiling  water,  and  don't  let  it  draw  for  more  than  eight 
minutes.  If  these  rules  be  followed  tea-drinkins:  has  a  con- 
servative  action  on  the  diff'erent  structures  of  the  body, 
checking  any  disi3osition  to  too  rapid  a  change  in  them  by 
wear  and  tear,  and  thereby  preventing  waste  of  tissue. 

105.  Teas  free  from  too  great  an  amount  of  tannin  suit 
weak  stomachs  best.  The  Indian  and  Assam  teas  as  a  rule 
contain  a  large  amount  of  this  ingredient.  The  author  can 
strongly  recommend  the  new  digestive  tea  (so  called),  which 
has  been  latterly  imported  to  some  extent.  This  agrees  with 
people  who  cannot  drink  other  teas,  such  as  dyspeptics  and 
those  of  nervous  temperament. 

COFFEE :  ITS  USE. 

106.  *  Coffee,'  says  Dr.  Pavy,  *  is  said  to  have  been  in  use  in 
Abyssinia  from  time  immemorial,  and  in  Persia  from  a.d.  875. 
It  was  used  in  Constantinople  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  in  spite  of  the  violent  opposition  of  the  priests,  and  in 
1554  two  coffee-houses  were  opened  in  that  city.  It  was  intro- 
duced into  Europe  in  the  seventeenth  century.  It  was  drunk  in 
Venice  soon  after  1615,  and  brought  into  England  and  France 
about  forty  years  after.' 

107.  Like  tea,  coff'ee  produces  an  invigorating  and  stimu- 
lant effect,  without  being  followed  by  any  depression,  and 
fully  justifies  the  estimation  in  which  it  is  held.  It  increases 
the  action  of  the  pulse,  and  is  more  heating  than  tea,  while 
at  the  same  time  it  arouses  the  mental  faculties  and  so  dis- 


38  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [io8- 

poses  to  wakefulness.  To  make  the  infusion  properly  2  oz. 
of  freshly-ground  coffee  should  be  used  to  each  pint  of  boiling 
water. 

108.  Coffee  is  especially  useful  to  those  who  suffer  from  re- 
dundancy of  fat,  as  it  has  the  power  of  relieving  the  sensation 
of  hunger  and  fatigue,  and  may  be  used  two  or  three  times  a 
day  as  a  beverage.  It  has  all  the  advantages  of  a  stimulant 
without  the  ill-effects  following  alcohol  in  its  various  forms. 
It  exerts  a  marked  sustaining  influence  under  fatigue  and 
privation,  and  sustains  the  strength  where  a  restricted  diet  is 
necessary,  and  this  enables  arduous  exertion  to  be  better 
borne  under  the  existence  of  abstinence  or  a  •  deficiency  of 
food. 

COCOA. 

109.  Of  this  article,  as  a  dietetic  for  fat  people,  one  need  say 
but  little,  as  it  is  not  suitable.     It  is  highly  nourishing,  and 

contains  a  large  quantity  of  oil  and  some  starch.  It  has,  for 
fat  people's  use,  none  of  the  good  qualities  of  tea  or  coffee. 

WATER  AND  AEKATED  DRINKS,  ETC. 

110.  A  supply  of  water  in  one  shape  or  another  is  one  of 
the  essential  conditions  of  life.  It  is  as  important  as  food, 
and  is  required  for  various  purposes  in  the  performance  of 
the  operations  of  life.  It  forms  the  liquid  element  of  the 
secretions,  and  thereby  the  medium  for  dissolving  the  digested 
food,  and  enabling  it  to  pass  into  the  system  and  the  effete 
products  to  pass  out  in  solution. 

111.  The  quantity  of  water  required  for  drinking  purposes 
is  found  to  bear  a  relation  to  climate  and  to  the  weight  of  the 
individual,  being  nearly  half  an  ounce  for  every  pound,  or  one 
and  a  half  gills  for  every  stone  weight.  Thus  a  man  weighing 
150  lb.  (ordinarily  a  man  of  5  feet  7  inches)  would  require 
three   pints  and  three-quarters  ;  of    this  about  one-third  is 


113.]  WATER  AND  AERATED  DRINKS,  ETC,  39 

taken  m  the  food,  the  remainder,  two  and  a  half  pints,  being 
required  as  drink. 

112.  Where  there  is  a  tendency  to  fat  it  is  not  advisable  to 
drink  more  fluid  than  is  necessary  to  quench  thirst.  Soda 
and  potash  waters  may  be  taken  for  this  purpose,  but  no 
aerated  waters  that  contain  sugar,  such  as  lemonade,  ginger- 
beer,  and  their  allies.  Eecij^es  will  be  found  on  pages  123-126 
for  non-alcoholic  drinks,  sweetened  with  saccharin,  for  such 
people.  During  hot  weather,  even  under  any  circumstances, 
more  fluid  is  necessary. 

113.  If  a  plain  and  wholesome  liquid  be  drunk,  such  as  tea, 
cofi"ee,  and  those  recommended  under  the  sections  on  wine 
and  beverages,  the  error  is  not  likely  to  be  committed  of 
taking  too  much.  After  compensating  for  what  is  given  off 
by  the  skin  and  the  lungs  the  remainder  passes  off  by  the 
kidneys,  and  washes  away  the  effete  products  of  the  system 
in  a  dissolved  state.  The  poison  of  gout  is  especially  elimin- 
ated by  the  kidneys.  Gout  is  one  of  the  commonest  complica- 
tions of  corpulency. 


PART  II. 

DIETETICS  AND  COOKERY. 

114.  The  following  articles  of  diet  may  be  partaken  of  by 
corpulent  people.  In  the  case  of  meats  and  fish,  all  superfluous 
fat  should  be  removed     (See  American  Introduction.) 

January. 

Meat. — The  lean  of  beef,  mutton,  doe-venison. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Hares,  rabbits,  pheasants,  partridges, 
woodcocks,  snipes,  fowls,  chickens,  capons,  pullets,  grouse,  wild 
fowls,  turkeys,  tame  pigeons. 

Fish. — Turbot,  soles,  flounders,  plaice,  skate,  whitings,  cod, 
haddocks,  herrings,  oj'sters,  lobsters,  crabs,  prawns,  tench,  perch, 
mussels. 

Vegetables. — Cabbages,  broccoli,  savoys,  endive,  sprouts, 
Scotch  kale,  sea-kale,  spinach,  lettuces,  celery,  cardoons,  salsify, 
turnips,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  garlic,  shallots,  mustard  and 
cress,  cucumbers,  mushrooms. 

Fruits. — Apples,  medlars,  currants,  grapes,  walnuts,  nuts, 
filberts,  oranges,  lemons.* 

Especially  in  Season  in  January. — Haddocks,  whitings, 
tench,  skate,  hares,  rabbits. 

February. 

115.  Meat. — Beef,  mutton,  venison. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Hares,  rabbits,  pheasants,  partridges, 

*  As  uncooked  fruits  contain  sugar  they  should  be  taken  sparingly. 


ii;.]  ARTICLES  OF  DIET,  41 

woodcocks,  snipes,  pigeons,  turkeys,  fowls,  pullets,  capons, 
chickens,  turkey-poults. 

JFiSH. — Flounders,  brill,  plaice,  skate,  soles,  turbot,  codfish, 
whitings,  sturgeon,  haddocks,  oysters,  mussels,  cockles,  crabs, 
crayfish,  prawns,  shrimps,  barbels,  perch,  pike,  tench. 

Vegetables. — Broccoli,  cabbages,  Brussels  sprouts,  savoys, 
celery,  cardoons,  lettuces,  endive,  spinach,  sorrel,  forced  French 
beans,  turnips,  and  all  small  salads;  tarragon,  scorzonera, 
cucumbers,  mushrooms. 

Fruits. — Apples,  grapes,  oranges,  pomeloes,  shaddocks, 
almonds,  nuts,  chestnuts,  walnuts,  figs,  currants,  filberts. 

Especially  in  Season  in  February. — Skate,  dace,  turkey- 
poults. 

March. 

116.  Meat. — Beef,  mutton,  doe-venison. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Fowls,  chickens,  turkeys,  pigeons, 
rabbits,  guinea-fowls,  woodcocks,  snipe. 

Fish. — Turbot,  whitings,  soles,  plaice,  flounders,  skate, 
oysters,  lobsters,  crabs,  prawns,  cod,  crayfish,  mackerel, 
mussels,  trout. 

Vegetables. — Savoys,  cabbages,  sprouts,  spinach,  lettuces, 
turnips,  radishes,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  parsley  and  other 
garden  herbs,  Scotch  kale,  broccoli,  scorzonera,  salsify,  sea- 
kale,  chives,  celery,  cress,  mustard,  sorrel,  horse-radish,- 
rhubarb,  shallots,  cucumbers. 

Fruits. — Apples,  oranges,  forced  strawberries. 

Especially  in  Season  in  March.  —  Mackerel,  mullet, 
skate,  whitings,  prawns. 

April. 

117.  Meat. — Beef,  mutton,  grass-lamb. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Pullets,  chickens,  leverets,  fowls, 
pigeons,  wood-pigeons,  rabbits,  turkey-poults. 

Fish. — Brill,  cockles,  cod,  crabs,  dory,  flounders,  halibut, 
ling,  lobsters,  mullet,  mackerel,  mussels,  perch,  oysters,  pike. 


42  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [ii8- 

plaice,  prawns,  shrimiDS,  skate,  sturgeon,  soles,  whitings, 
turbot,  trout ;  shad  and  its  roes. 

Vegetables. — Asparagus,  beans,  fennel,  endive,  broccoli, 
cucumbers,  chervil,  lettuces,  parsley,  rhubarb,  turnips,  sorrel, 
sea-kale,  radishes,  spinach,  turnip-tops,  small  salad,  parsnips. 

Fruits. — Apples,  oranges,  early  strawberries,  walnuts. 

Especially  in  Season  in  April. — Prawns,  crabs,  obsters, 
grass-lamb,  asparagus,  cucumbers. 

May. 

118.  Meat. — Beef,  mutton,  grass-lamb,  calf's  liver. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Fowls,  pigeons,  pullets,  chickens, 
wood-pigeons,  leverets,  rabbits. 

Fish. — Cod,  crabs,  brill,  flounders,  lobsters,  mackerel,  perch, 
prawns,  plaice,  pike,  shrimps,  whitings,  crayfish,  gurnet,  dory, 
haddocks,  soles,  halibut,  turbot,  trout,  shad,  shad-roes. 

Vegetables. — Cabbage,  asparagus,  kidney-beans,  chervil, 
turnips,  spinach,  sorrel,  sea-kale,  lettuces,  rhubarb,  corn 
salad,  cucumbers,  cauliflowers,  radishes,  artichokes,  salads 
generally. 
'Fruits. — Apples,  cherries,  currants,  strawberries,  goose- 
berries. 

Especially  in  Season  in  May. — Prawns,  crabs,  lobsters. 

June. 

119.  Meat. — Beef,  mutton,  grass-lamb,  buck-venison,  calf's 
liver. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Fowls,  chickens,  pullets,  turkey- 
poults,  pigeons,  leverets,  plovers,  rabbits. 

Fish. — Turbot,  soles,  mackerel,  carps,  pike,  crabs,  tench, 
prawns,  lobsters,  shrimps,  mullet,  haddocks,  trout. 

Vegetables. — Cauliflowers,  spinach,  beans,  asparagus,  arti- 
chokes, turnips,  lettuces,  cucumbers,  radishes,  cresses,  all  kinds 
of  salad,  sorrel,  horse-radish,  rhubarb,  vegetable-marrows. 

Fruits. — Gooseberries,  currants,  cherries,  strawberries,  apri- 
cots, peaches,  apples,  nectarines,  grapes,  pine-apples. 


121.]  ARTICLES  OF  DIET,  43 

Especially  in  Season  in  June. — Skate,  prawns,  lobsters, 
crabs,  grass-lamb,  vegetable-marrows. 

July. 

120.  Meat. — Beef,  mutton,  grass-lamb,  buck-venison,  veal. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Fowls,  chickens,  pullets,  turkey- 
poults,  tame  rabbits,  wild  rabbits,  leverets,  plovers,  wheatears, 
wikl  chickens,  pigeons,  wood-pigeons. 

Fish. — Dace,  dory,  cod,  carp,  brill,  barbel,  crabs,  crayfish, 
flounders,  haddocks,  ling,  mackerel,  lobsters,  mullet,  thorn- 
back,  plaice,  pike,  soles,  tench,  gurnet,  perch,  dabs,  prawns, 
whitings,  trout. 

Vegetables.  —  Kidney,  Windsor,  and  scarlet  beans,  as- 
paragus, artichokes,  celery,  endive,  chervil,  lettuces,  mush- 
rooms, salsify,  spinach,  sorrel,  radishes,  turnips,  salad,  peas. 

Fruits. — Apples,  oranges,  pine-apples,  currants,  cherries, 
damsons,  gooseberries,  strawberries,  raspberries,  plums,  peaches, 
nectarines. 

August. 

121.  Meat. — Beef,  mutton,  grass-lamb,  venison,  veal. 
Game   and    Poultry.  —  Grouse,   pullets,   fowls,   pigeons, 

turkey-poults,  moor-game,  chickens,  plovers,  turkeys,  wild 
pigeons,  rabbits,  wheatears,  leverets. 

Fish. — Turbot,  whitings,  dace,  dabs,  tench,  thornback, 
flounders,  perch,  haddocks,  herrings,  lobsters,  crabs,  pike, 
plaice,  barbel,  oysters,  prawns,  gurnet,  brill,  cod,  crayfish, 
mullet,  mackerel,  soles,  trout. 

Vegetables. — French,  kidney,  Lima,  and  scarlet  beans, 
artichokes,  lettuces,  cauliflowers,  cucumbers,  salsify,  radishes, 
salad,  mushrooms,  shallots,  turnips,  spinach,  leeks,  endive, 
peas,  tomatoes. 

Fruits.  —  Apples,  plums,  peaches,  greengages,  damsons, 
cherries,  currants,  raspberries,  gooseberries,  nectarines,  fil- 
berts. 


44  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [122- 

EsPECiALLY  IN  SEASON  IN  AUGUST.  —  Turbot,  mackerel, 
pike,  perch,  prawns,  dace,  crabs,  herrings,  lobsters,  grouse, 
greengages,  filberts,  figs. 

September. 

122.  Meat. — Beef,  veal,  mutton,  lamb,  venison. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Fowls,  pullets,  chickens,  wild  duck, 
partridges,  hares,  pigeons,  rabbits,  turkey-poults. 

Fish,  —  Cod,  haddocks,  flounders,  plaice,  soles,  mullets, 
lobsters,  oysters,  prawns,  carp,  pike,  perch,  tench,  herrings, 
brill,  turbot,  crabs,  dace,  trout. 

Vegetables. — Cauliflowers,  cabbages,  turnips,  peas,  beans, 
artichokes,  mushrooms,  lettuces,  tomatoes. 

Fruits. — Apples,  plums,  cherries,  peaches,  grapes,  straw- 
berries, pines,  walnuts,  filberts,  hazel-nuts,  quinces,  medlars, 
currants,  damsons. 

Especially  in  Season  in  September.  —  Pike,  perch, 
lobsters,  dace,  crabs,  mussels,  hares,  moor-game,  partridges, 
grouse. 

October. 

123.  Meat. — Beef,  veal,  mutton,  lamb,  venison. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Turkeys,  pullets,  fowls,  chickens, 
widgeons,  larks,  woodcocks,  grouse,  pheasants,  pigeons,  part- 
ridges, snipes,  hares,  rabbits. 

Fish. — Oysters,  lobsters,  crabs,  brill,  gurnet,  dory,  smelts, 
halibut,  gudgeon,  barbel,  perch,  carp,  tench,  herrings,  hake, 
pike,  dace,  trout. 

Vegetables. — Turnips,  cauliflowers,  cabbages,  beans,  leeks, 
spinach,  endive,  celery,  scorzonera,  cardoon,  parsley,  salads, 
garlic,  shallots,  tomatoes. 

Fruits. — Plums,  apples,  peaches,  medlars,  walnuts,  filberts, 
nuts,  quinces,  damsons,  pineapples. 

Especially  in  Season  in  October. — Dace,  pike,  hake, 
dory,  pheasants,  partridges,  widgeons,  broccoli,  trufiles,  grapes, 
medlars,  tomatoes,  hazel-nuts. 


125.]  ARTICLES  OF  DIET,  45 

NOVESIBER. 

124.  Meat. — -Beef,  mutton,  venison. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Hares,  rabbits,  pheasants,  partridges, 
fowls,  pullets,  turkeys,  widgeons,  snipe,  woodcocks,  larks, 
pigeons,  grouse. 

Fish. — Oysters,  crabs,  lobsters,  dory,  soles,  smelt,  gurnet, 
brill,  carp,  barbel,  halibut,  pike,  tench,  cockles,  mussels,  turbot, 
herrings,  haddocks,  skate,  whitings,  cod,  dace. 

Vegetables. — Turnips,  leeks,  shallots,  Jerusalem  artichokes, 
cabbages,  broccoli,  savoys,  spinach,  beet,  cardoons,  chervil, 
endive,  lettuces,  salsify,  scorzonera,  Scotch  kale,  celery,  mush- 
rooms, tarragon,  parsley,  salads. 

Fruits. — Apples,  quinces,  walnuts,  filberts,  nuts. 

Especially  in  Season  in  November. — Pike,  tench,  plaice, 
dory,  grouse,  hares,  snipes,  woodcocks,  chestnuts. 

December. 

125.  Meat. — Beef,  veal,  mutton,  doe-venison. 

Poultry  and  Game. — Hares,  rabbits,  pheasants,  grouse, 
partridges,  woodcocks,  snipes,  fowls,  pullets,  chickens,  turkeys, 
widgeons,  pea-fowl,  larks,  capons. 

Fish. — Sturgeon,  turbot,  soles,  skate,  codfish,  haddocks, 
smelts,  dory,  gurnet,  herrings,  sprats,  oysters,  mussels,  cockles, 
lobsters,  shellfish,  perch,  carp,  ling,  dace. 

Vegetables. — Cabbages,  broccoli,  savoys,  Brussels  sprouts, 
Scotch  kale,  sea-kale,  spinach,  endive,  cardoons,  lettuces,  skirret, 
salsify,  scorzonera,  sorrel,  turnips,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  celery, 
shallots,  mushrooms,  parsley,  horseradish. 

Fruits. — Apples,  medlars,  figs,  filberts,  nuts,  walnuts,  cur- 
rants. 

Especially  in  Season  in  December.  —  Haddocks,  dace, 
tench,  cod,  dory,  ling,  skate,  turbot,  capon,  pea-fowL 


46  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT. 

EXAMPLES  OF  DIETARY. 

First  Day. 

BreaJcfast, 

Tea  with  Saccharin  and  Cream,  or  Coffee  in  the  same  way. 

Bread,  stale,  2  oz. 
Mutton  Kidneys,  fried  (126),  or  Broiled  Mackerel  (136). 

Dinner. 

Julienne  Soup  (171). 

Gray  Mullet,  broiled,  with  Gooseberry  Sauce. 

Stewed  Pigeons  and  Mushrooms  (239),  or  Roast  Rabbit  (226). 

Asparagus,  boiled  (399).     French  Beans  (300). 

Claret  Jelly  (342). 

Tea  or  8upper* 

Tea  with  Saccharin  and  Cream,  or  some  light  Wine  or  weak 

Spirits-and- water. 

Dry  Toast  or  Gluten  Bread.* 

Oysters  (197).  Irish  Sandwiches  (133). 


Second  Day. 

Breakfast 

Tea  with  Saccharin  and  Cream,  or  Coffee  in  the  same  way. 

Bread,  stale,  2  oz. 

Fish  Rissoles  (151;,  or  Eggs  and  Mushrooms  (161). 

*  See  page  29.  f  See  page  28. 


EXAMPLES  OF  DIETARY,  47 

Dinner. 

Pheasant  Soup  (176). 

Eoiled  Soles  (221). 

Mutton,  neck  of,  boiled  (255).     Pheasant,  Salmi  of  (247). 

Mashed  Artichokes  (323).     Green  Peas,  boiled  (305). 

Damsons,  Compdte  of  (360). 

Tea  or  Supper. 

Tea  with   Saccharin   and   Cream,    or   some    light   Wine    or 

Lemonade. 

Dry  Toast  or  Gluten  Biscuits. 

Kidney  Omelette  (164).         Potted  Pheasant  (168). 


Third  Day. 

Breahfast. 


Tea  or  Coffee,  with  Saccharin  and  Cream. 

Thin  Toast,  with  Indian  Devil  Mixture  (142). 

Brawn  (148). 

Dinner. 

Eabbit  Soup  (187). 

Whitings,   fried  (205). 

Mutton,  kebobbed  (256).         Partridges,  broiled  (250). 

Mashed  Turnips  (310).     Curried  Tomatoes  (327). 

Stewed  Apples  (13). 

Tea  or  Supper. 

Tea  with  Saccharin  and  Cream,  or  some  light  Wine  or  weak 

Spirits- and- water. 
Savoury  Omelette  (143).      Chicken  a  la  Marengo  (272). 


4$  foods  for  the  fat, 

Fourth  Day, 

Breakfast. 

Tea  or  Coffee,  with  Saccharin  and  Cream. 

Thin  Toast  or  Gluten  Bread. 

Mackerel,  boiled  (135).     Grilled  Mushrooms  (130). 

Dinner. 

Oxtail  Soup,  clear  (175). 

Crimped  Cod  (224)  with  Tartare  Sauce  (378). 

Minced  Beef  (279).  Guinea-fowl,  roasted  (235). 

Sea-kale,  boiled  (291).     Cardoons,  boiled  (316). 

Strawberry  Jelly  (348). 

Tea  or  Supper. 

Tea  with  Saccharin  and  Cream,  or  some  light  Wine  or 

Lemonade. 
Oyster  Fritters  (223).     Lobster,  Sauce  Mayonnaise  (376). 


Fifth  Day. 

Brealcfast, 

Tea  or  Coffee,  with  Saccharin  and  Cream. 

Stale  Bread  or  Thin  Dry  Toast. 

Sweetbreads,  browned  (154).        Bloaters  (159). 

Dinner. 

Giblet  Soup. 

Whitings,  aux  Fines  Herbes  (207). 

Sweetbreads  with  Piquante  Sauce  (241).     Onions  with  Beef 

Steak  (263). 

Spinach  with  Cream  (318). 

Custard  (352). 


EXAMPLES  OF  DIETARY,  ^9 

Tea  or  Supper. 

Tea  with  Saccharin  and  Cream,  or  some  light  Wine  or  weak 

Spirits-and-water. 
Cold  Game  (385).     Sheep's  Tongues,  stewed  (149). 


Sixth  Day. 

Breakfast. 


Tea  or  Coftee,  with  Saccharin  and  Cream. 

Gluten  Bread  or  Thin  Toast. 

Mutton  Kidneys,  stewed  (132).     Dried  Haddock  (162). 

Dinner. 

Brown  Soup  (192). 

Plaice,   filleted   (215). 

Oxtail  stewed  with  Spinach  (226).     Perdrix  aux  Yin  (244). 

French  Beans  (300). 

Calf's-foot  Jelly  (338). 

Tea  or  Supper. 

Tea  with  Saccharin  and  Cream,  or  some  light  Wine  or  Lemonade, 

Stale  Bread. 
Lobster  Salad  (203).         Compote  of  Cherries  (349). 


Seventh  Day 

Breakfast. 

Tea  or  Coffee,  with  Saccharin  and  Cream. . 
Gluten  Bread  or  Thin  Toast. 
Kidney  Omelette  (164).  Broiled  Trout  (170). 

4 


^0  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [126- 

Dinner. 

Mulligatawny  Soup. 

Smelts,  broiled  (214),  or  Sole  aux  Vin  Blanc  (219). 

Kabbit  a  la  Tartare  (267).         Calf's  Liver  a  la  Mode  (276). 

Stewed  Lettuce  (293).     Boiled  Turnips  (297). 

Stewed  Brunes  (340). 

Tea  or  Supper. 
Tea  with  Saccharin  and  Cream,  or  some  light  Wine  or  weak 

Spirits-and-water. 

Cold  Salmi  of  Bartridges  (252).     Eggs  and  Garlic  (160). 

Gooseberry  Fool. 


These  menus  will  admit  of  a  large  selection  of  change,  and 
of  a  varied  mode  of  life  with  regard  to  the  meal  and  the  hour 
of  taking  it;  but  at  least  five  hours  should  elapse  between 
each  re[iast,  enough  being  taken  to  satisfy  the  appetite,  but  na 
more. 

BREAKFAST  DISHES. 
Mutton  Kidneys,  Fried. 

126.  But  the  kidneys  into  a  frying-pan  with  an  ounce  of 
butter,  and  a  little  pepper  sprinkled  over  them.  AVhen  done 
on  one  side,  turn  for  an  equal  time  on  the  other.  Remove  to 
a  hot  dish,  add  pepper,  cayenne,  salt,  and  a  little  sauce 
(Harvey's  or  any  other),  and  pour  the  gravy  from  the  pan 
over  them.  Serve  hot,  on  thin,  dry  toast.  Time,  seven  or 
eight  minutes. 

Mutton  Chops. 

127.  Take  chops  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  saw  off 
about  four  inches  from  the  top  and  the  chinebones.  Cut  away 
the  skin  and  gristle  from  the  upper  end  of  the  bone,  which 


I30.]  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  51 

will  give  the  cutlet  a  round,  plump  appearance.  Sprinkle 
each  chop  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  them  separately  into 
dissolved  butter,  and  broil  over  a  brisk  fire.  A  trimmed 
mutton  cutlet  of  five  ounces  in  weight  will  require  about  six 
minutes  to  cook. 

Mushroom  Toast. 

128.  Stew  over  a  gentle  fire  a  quart  of  nicely-prepared 
mushrooms  (just  opened  ones),  first  dissolving  one  ounce  of 
butter  in  the  stewpan,  and  seasoning  the  mushrooms  with 
white  pepper  or  cayenne,  a  saltspoonful  of  mace  powdered ; 
stir  them  carefully,  and  toss  them  in  the  pan  to  prevent  burn- 
ing and  until  the  butter  is  dried  and  slightly  brown,  when 
add  half  a  pint  of  stock,  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
a  little  salt,  and  stew  until  the  mushrooms  are  tender. 

Mushrooms  (au  Beurre). 

129.  Trim  the  stems,  and  rub  two  pints  of  button  mush- 
rooms with  flannel  dipped  in  salt.  Put  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  three  ounces  of  good  butter  slightly  browned,  and  stir 
them  very  gently  to  get  the  butter  well  about  tbem.  Shake 
the  pan  over  a  moderate  fire,  that  the  mushrooms  may  not 
settle  at  the  bottom.  When  they  have  well  imbibed  the 
butter,  add  a  little  pounded  mace,  salt,  and  cayenne,  and 
cover  closely  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to  simmer  until  tender, 
when  they  will  be  found  excellent  without  any  other  addition. 
Serve  them  hot  on  thin  dry  toast. 

Mushrooms,  Grilled. 

130.  Cut  the  stalks,  peel  and  score  lightly  the  underside  of 
large  mushroom  flaps,  which  should  be  firm  and  fresh  gathered. 
Season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  steep  them  in  a  marinade 
of  oil  or  melted  butter.  If  quite  sound,  they  may  be  laid  on  a 
gridiron  over  a  slow  even  fire,  and  grilled  on  both  sides ;  but 
they  are  best  done  in  the  oven  if  at  all  bruised. 

4—2 


52  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [131- 

MuTTON  Cutlets  with  Tomato  Purine. 

131.  Trim  cutlets  from  well-hung  mutton,  beat  them  into 
shape  after  removing  the  chinebone,  dip  them  into  dissolved 
butter,  brush  them  with  egg,  and  sprinkJe  with  breadcrumbs. 
Fry  in  boiling  fat,  and  turn  them  frequently  during  the  frying. 
Put  them  on  blotting-paper  before  the  fire  to  drain.  Have 
ready  a  pur^e  of  fresh  tomatoes  made  as  follows  :  Pick  a  pound 
of  ripe  tomatoes,  break  them  open,  and  put  them  without 
their  seeds  into  a  stewpan,  with  an  onion  or  a  couple  of  shallots, 
sweet  herbs  and  spice,  if  liked,  salt  and  pepper ;  stir  over  a 
slow  fire  till  the  tomatoes  can  be  pulped  through  a  hair-sieve ; 
return  the  pulp  to  the  stewpan  to  simmer,  add  an  ounce  of 
butter  well  worked  together  in  a  little  flour,  and  stir  in  two 
ounces  of  meat-glaze.  Arrange  the  cutlets  in  a  circle  a  little 
overlapping  each  other,  and  fill  the  centre  with  the  pur6e. 

Mutton  Kidneys,  Stewed  (k  la  FRANgAisE). 

132.  Remove  the  skins  from  half  a  dozen  or  less  fine  mutton 
kidneys  and  cut  them  lengthwise  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  thickness.  Season  each  piece  rather  highly  with  salt 
and  cayenne,  and  dip  it  into  some  finely  powdered  sweet 
herbs,  namely,  parsley  and  thyme — two-thirds  of  the  former 
and  one  of  the  latter.  Three  or  four  finely  minced  shallots 
may  be  added  if  liked.  Melt  a  good-sized  piece  of  butter  in 
the  frying-pan  and  put  in  the  kidneys.  Let  them  brown  on 
both  sides.  When  nearly  cooked,  dredge  a  little  flour  quickly 
over  them,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  boiling  stock  or  water,  a 
tablespoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup  and  the  strained  juice  of 
hulf  a  lemon.  When  the  gravy  is  just  upon  the  point  of 
boiling,  lift  out  the  kidneys,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  claret  to  the  same,  let  it  boil  for  one  minute, 
tl.en  pour  it  over  the  meat.  Garnish  with  fried  sippets. 
Time,  six  minutes  to  fry  the  kidneys. 


136.]  BREAKFAST  DISHES,  53 

Irish  Sandwiches. 

133.  Cut  the  meat  in  very  thin  slices  from  partridges,  grouse 
or  any  game  that  has  be(ni  roasted,  and  shred  some  celery. 
Lay  thy  moat  on  delicately  thin  fresh  toast  — it  should  bo 
crisp  and  not  tough — strew  celery  over,  and  season  well  with 
Tartar  sauce.     Serve  in  squares  on  a  napkin. 

Lamb  Cutlets,  Superlative. 

134.  Take  a  tablespoonful  of  each  of  the  following  ingredients, 
all  finely  minced:  parsley,  shallots,  mushrooms  and  lean  ham. 
Put  these  into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  and 
stir  them  over  the  fire  for  live  minutes.  Add  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  sauce,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  half  a  dessertspoonful  of 
strained  lemon-juice,  three  grates  of  nutmeg,  and  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  but  it 
must  not  boil.  Partially  fry  the  cutlets,  when  nearly  cold 
dip  them  into  the  above  preparation  and  place  them  upon  ice 
until  the  sauce  is  set.  Dip  the  cutlets  in  egg,  fry,  and  serve 
tliem  with  a  puree  of  spinach  or  green  peas.  Time,  twenty 
minutes  to  fry  the  cutlets — ten  minutes  each  time. 

Mackeuel,  Boiled. 

135.  Wash  and  clean  carefully  after  removing  the  roes. 
The  mackerel  is  in  its  greatest  perfection  when  it  has  roe. 
Lay  the  fish  and  roes  sei);irately  into  cold  water,  and  to  a 
gallon  of  water  add  from  three  to  four  ounces  of  salt,  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  vinegar  ;  when  at  boiling-point 
skim,  and  simmer  only  until  done.  Much  depends  on  the 
size  of  the  fish.  Kemove  at  once  when  done,  or  fiom  their 
great  delicacy  of  skin  they  will  crack  if  kept  in  the  water. 
The  usual  test,  when  the  eyes  start  and  the  tail  splits,  should 
be  attended  to.     Serve  on  a  napkin  with  the  roe. 

Mackerel,  Broiled. 

133.  Large  fresh  fish  should  be  procured  for  broiling. 
Clo  uise  the  fish  thoroughly  and  dry  in  a  cloth,  or  hung  up  in 


54  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [137- 

the  air.  Open  it  down  the  back,  rub  the  inside  with  a  little 
salt  and  cayenne  mixed,  and  smear  with  clarified  butter  or 
good  oil.  Put  it  into  a  thickly  buttered  paper  loosely  fastened 
at  each  end,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  or  it  may  be  broihd 
without  the  paper,  though  the  former  mode  renders  the  fish 
so  cooked  more  delicate,  and  not  so  apt  to  disagree  with  the 
stomach  as  when  exj^osed  to  the  tire  uncovered. 

Mackerel,  Broiled,  and  Tarragon  Butter. 

137.  Eemove  the  inside  of  the  fish  through  the  gills  and 
vent  without  opening  it.  AVash,  clean,  dry,  and  make  a  deep 
incision  down  the  back,  lay  the  fish  in  a  little  salad-oil,  keep 
it  well  basted  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  but  cut  off  the 
nose  or  part  of  the  head  and  tail  before  it  is  steeped  in  the 
oil.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire,  and  when  done  have  ready  the 
following  mixture,  with  which  fill  up  the  incision  :  Work  a 
little  butter,  pepper,  salt  and  tarragon  leaves,  chopped  and 
steeped  in  vinegar  together.  When  ready,  serve  the  mackerel 
with  some  of  the  butter  spread  over  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Time, 
from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  to  broil. 

Meat  Kissoles,  German. 

133.  Fry  two  or  three  ounces  of  bacon  cut  into  small  squares, 
then  add  the  following  ingredients  :  To  a  well-beaten  egg  stir 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  well  minced  cold  meat,  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  soaked  bread  (squeezed  dry),  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  onion,  another  of  parsley,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
AVhen  these  ingredients  are  fried  sufficiently,  turn  them  out 
into  a  basin  until  nearly  cold,  then  add  a  couple  of  eggs, 
beat  all  well  together,  form  the  mixture  into  balls  about  the 
size  of  an  egg  and  fry  for  six  minutes,  or  drop  them  into  boil- 
ing soup  stock  or  water;  pour  gravy  over  them  before  serving. 
Time  to  make,  half  an  hour ;  sufficient  for  six  balls. 


141.]  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  55 

Pigs'  Kidneys,  Broiled. 

139.  Split  the  kidneys  lengthwise  from  the  rounded  part, 
without  separating  them  entirely.  Peel  off  the  skin,  and  pass 
a  wooden  or  metal  skewer  through  them  to  keep  them  flat. 
Sprinkle  a  little  jiepper,  salt  and  powdered  sage  over  them,  oil 
them  slightl3^  and  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  the  hollow  side 
first,  so  that  the  gravy  may  be  kept  in  when  they  are  turned. 
Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  either  with  or  without  maitre  d'hotel 
sauce  in  a  tureen.  Time  to  broil  the  kidneys,  four  minutes 
each  side,  or  more  according  to  size. 

Pigs'  Kidneys,  Fried. 

140.  Peel  the  kidneys,  cut  them  into  slices,  dip  them  in 
clarified  butter,  and  afterwards  into  a  mixture  made  of  two 
finely  minced  shallots,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  j^arsley, 
a  pinch  of  powdered  thyme,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Fry 
them  in  an  ounce  of  butter  until  they  are  lightly  browned,  put 
them  into  a  hot  dish,  and  mix  with  the  butter  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  thick  brown  gravy,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  claret. 
Boil  the  sauce,  pour  it  over  the  kidneys  and  serve  hot.  If  no 
sauce  is  at  hand,  take  the  kidneys  up,  mix  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour  smoothly  into  the  butter  in  the  pan,  add  a  wineglassful 
of  boiling  water,  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup, 
a  little  salt  and  cayenne  and  a  glassful  of  claret.  Boil  the 
sauce  and  strain  it  over  the  kidneys.     Time  to  fry  six  minutes. 

Hunter's  Beef. 

141.  Take  as  lean  a  piece  as  can  be  procured  of  the  flank 
of  beef — the  thin  end  is  the  best.  Take  out  the  bones  and 
rub  the  meat  well  every  day  for  a  fortnight  with  a  mix- 
ture made  of  one  pound  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  saltpetre,  one 
ounce  of  pounded  cloves,  and  one  "grated  nutmeg.  At  the 
end  of  the  time  roll  it  as  closely  and  firmly  as  possible,  and 
bind  it  securely  with  skewers  and  tape.  Just  cover  it  with 
water,  and  boil  or  bake  it  for  five  or  six  hours.  Do  not 
loosen  the  tapes,  etc.,  until  the  meat  is  quite  cold. 


56  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [142- 

Indian  Devil  Mixture. 

142.  To  a  tablespoonful  each  of  vinegar,  ketchup,  and 
chutney-paste,  add  an  ounce  of  dissolved  butter,  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  made  mustard,  salt,  and  a  small  cup  of  good  rich 
gravy.  Blend  these  ingredients  thoroughly,  and  rub  them 
into  the  meat.  Make  all  hot  together  slowly.  Time,  ten 
minutes  to  make  hot. 

Savoury  Omelette. 

143.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  till  almost  white  ;  beat  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  for  the  same  time ;  beat  the  two  together 
for  five  minutes  after  adding  a  teacup  of  milk,  some  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  a  dessertspoonful  of  pickled  mushrooms, 
minced  very  small,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs.  Add 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Beat  well.  Fry  an  onion  cut  in 
four  pieces  in  some  butter,  and  when  boiling  take  it  out  before 
pouring  in  the  omelette  mixture.  Hold  the  pan  over  a  clear 
file,  with  a  fish-slice  fold  the  omelette  when  fried  a  light 
brown,  and  serve  in  a  very  hot  dish. 

Baked  Eggs. 

144.  Well  butter  some  tin  patty -pans ;  break  a  fresh  e;rg 
into  each;  place  a  lump  of  butter,  some  salt,  a  little  cayenne 
and  a  little  chopped  parsley  on  the  top  of  each.  Put  in  the 
oven  to  bake. 

Fried  Soles,  or  Fried  Slices  of  Cod. 

145.  Cleanse  the  fish,  and  two  hours  before  they  are  wanted 
rub  them  inside  and  out  with  salt ;  wash  and  rub  them  very 
dry,  dip  them  into  egg  ;  fry  them  in  boiling  lard,  dish  on  a 
hot  napkin,  and  garnish  with  crisped  parsley. 

Grilled  Kippered  Salmon. 

146.  Cut  some  dried  salmon  into  narrow  pi(  ces,  about  two 
inches  wide  and  four  long  ;  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  then 


i49-]  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  57 

rub  them  over  with  fresh  butter  seasoned  with  lemon-juice 
and  cayenne.     Serve  very  hot. 


Devilled  Hot  Meat. 

147.  Cut  some  cold  meat  in  slices,  and  then  rub  it  with 
the  following  mixture  :  a  tablespoonful  of  ketchup,  one  of 
vinegar,  two  of  made  mustaid,  one  of  salt,  and  two  of  butter, 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  gravy,  one  of  curry-paste ;  mix  all 
as  smooth  as  possible.  When  rubbed  with  the  mixture  put  it 
to  the  grill  before  a  good  fire.  Take  what  is  left  of  the  sauce 
and  make  it  warm,  and  pour  over  the  grill  before  sending  it 
to  table. 

Brawn. 

148.  Clean  and  wash  a  pig's  head  of  six  or  seven  pounds, 
and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  two  pounds  of  lean  beef ; 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  boil  until  the  bones  are  easily  re- 
moved, skimming  often.  Mince  the  beef  and  head  as  fine  as 
possible,  but  don't  let  it  get  coldo  Season  with  fine  cloves,  a 
lot  of  pepper,  salt,  and  cayenne.  Stir  briskly  together,  and 
put  into  a  cake-mould  with  a  heavy  weight  on  the  top.  Let 
it  stand  for  six  hours.  Dip  the  mould  in  boiling  water  when 
required,  and  turn  the  brawn  out  on  a  dish.  Decorate  with 
green  parsley,  and  serve  cold. 

Sheeps'  Tongues,  Stewed. 

149.  Put  the  tongues  into  cold  water,  bring  to  a  boil  till 
tender  enough  to  remove  the  skins.  Then  split  them,  and 
lay  them  in  a  stewpan  with  enough  good  gravy  to  cover  them. 
Chop  some  parsley,  some  mushrooms  and  onion,  fin-ely ;  work 
a  lump  of  butter  with  it,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste.  Add  it  to  the  gravy,  and  stew  till  tender ;  then  lay 
them  in  a  dish,  strain  the  gravy,  pour  it  very  hot  over  the 
tongues,  and  serve. 


58  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [150. 

Fish  Rissoles. 

150.  Take  the  remains  of  cold  salmon,  or  any  white  fish, 
free  it  from  bones  and  skin,  pound  in  a  mortar  with  pepper, 
salt,  cayenne,  and  a  little  butter,  until  it  is  a  smooth  paste, 
but  not  too  dry ;  make  it  up  into  small  round  balls ;  wash 
these  over  with  beaten  egg,  roll  in  very  fine  breadcrumbs,  fry 
a  pale  gold  colour.     Serve  piled  high  on  cut  paper. 

Baked  Whitings. 

151.  Clean  four  or  six  whitings  well,  cut  off  the  heads, 
season  well  with  pepper  and  salt ;  butter  a  pudding-dish  at 
the  bottom,  lay  in  the  fish,  sprinkle  them  over  with  more 
butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  any  light  wine,  cover  with 
thick  buttered-paper,  put  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an 
hour ;  mix  together  three  tablespoonfuls  of  chablis,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  herbs,  one  dessertspoonful  of 
mushroom  ketchup,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  gravy,  a  little 
cayenne ;  boil  these  together  for  a  few  minutes,  pour  over  the 
fish,  return  them  to  the  oven,  and  let  them  do  slowly  for  half 
an  hour  more. 

Kidney  Balls. 

152.  Chop  a  veal  kidney  and  some  of  the  fat,  some  leek  or 
onion,  black  pepper,  and  salt  to  taste ;  roll  it  up  with  an  egg 
into  balls,  and  fry  them. 

Deviled  Pheasants'  or  Chickens'  Legs. 

153.  Cut  off  legs  from  cold  pheasants,  score  them  with  a 
sharp  knife,  put  pepper  and  mustard  and  a  little  salt  into  the 
cuts  ;  broil  them  with  a  piece  of  cold  butter  on  each.  Serve 
very  hot. 

Sweetbreads,  Browned. 

154.  Soak,  blanch,  and  stew  the  sweetbreads  in  as  much 
good   and  nicely  flavoured  stock  as  will  barely  cover  them. 


157.]  BREAKFAST  DISHES,  59 

When  they  have  simmered  about  half  an  hour  take  them  up, 
and  put  them  into  a  round  saucepan  just  large  enough  to  hold 
them,  with  a  good  slice  of  fresh  butter,  which  has  been  melted 
and  is  just  beginning  to  brown.  Turn  the  sweetbreads  over  and 
over  till  they  are  equally  and  brightly  browned  in  every  part. 
Keep  them  hot  by  the  side  of  the  stove.  Thicken  the  stock 
in  which  they  are  boiled  with  brown  thickening.  Flavour 
with  mushroom  ketchup  and  lemon-juice,  and  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  light  wine.  Place  the  sweetbreads  on  a  dish,  and 
pour  the  sauce  over  them.  '   ' 

Trout,  Fried. 

155.  Empty,  clean,  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly  ;  cut  off  the 
fins  and  gills,  but  leave  the  heads  on.  Rub  them  over  with 
flour,  and  fry  them  in  plenty  of  hot  fat.  When  they  are 
brown  on  one  side  turn  them  carefully  upon  the  other.  Lift 
them  out  and  drain  them  on  blotting-paper  before  the  fire. 
Serve  on  a  hot  napkin  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Eed  Mullet,  Baked. 

156.  Wash  the  mullet  and  rub  it  well  with  lemon-juice ; 
put  it  in  a  tin  dish,  with  a  large  mushroom  finely  chopped, 
two  shallots  chopped,  three  thin  slices  of  carrot,  and  four 
sprigs  of  parsley  chopped,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  the  same  of 
white  pepper,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  chablis  ;  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Baste  constantly  with 
dissolved  butter ;  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over  the  mullet. 
This  recipe  is  written  for  a  large  mullet. 

Baked  Herrings. 

157.  Take  off  the  heads  of  six  herrings,  put  them  into  a 
deep  dish,  and  season  with  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  grain  of  cayenne,  two  cloves, 
four  allspice,  six  peppercorns,  a  blade  of  mace,  half  an  inch  of 
bruised  ginger,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  horseradish ;  add 
a  gill  of  cold  water  and  a  gill  of  good  vinegar.     Bake  in  a 


6o  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [158- 

slow   oven   for   half    an   hour.      Serve  cold,   with  the  sauce 
strained  and  a  Leaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  chives  added. 

Ling,  Fresh. 

158.  Take  one  pound  of  ling,  cut  it  into  pieces  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  rub  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
put  it  on  the  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire ;  in  about  ten  minutes 
it  will  be  done.     Serve  it  plain,  or  with  lemon  or  vinegar. 

Bloaters. 

159.  Open  the  bloaters  down  the  back  and  bone  them. 
Lay  the  fish  one  on  the  other  (insides  together),  and  broil  over 
a  clear  fire.  When  sent  to  table  they  are  separated,  laid  on  a 
hot  dish,  and  rubbed  over  with  a  little  butter ;  or,  split  up, 
take  out  the  bakebone,  trim  off  the  head,  tail,  and  fins, 
double  the  fish  over,  and  broil  from  five  to  six  minutes  over  a 
clear  fire. 

Eggs  and  Garlic. 

160.  Pound  ten  cloves  of  garlic  that  have  been  boiled  for 
twenty  minutes — the  water  having  been  changed  during  the 
boiling — v/ith  a  couple  of  anchovies ;  put  them,  when  well- 
pounded,  into  a  stewpan,  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil, 
the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
some  pepper  and  salt,  and  mix  all  together  while  being 
treated.  Put  the  mixture  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  sliced 
hard-boiled  eggs.  Four  eggs  will  cut  slices  enough  for  this 
dish.  Time,  ten  minutes  to  dress  eggs  ;  two  or  three  minutes 
to  warm  the  mixture. 

Eggs  and  Mushrooms. 

161.  Cut  off  the  ends  and  stalks  from  half  a  pint  of  mush- 
room buttons ;  put  them  into  a  basin  of  water  with  a  little 
lemon-juice  as  they  are  done.  Drain  and  slice  them  with 
some  large  onions,  which  fry  in  butter.  If  liked,  the  onions 
can  be  omitted   and   the  mushrooms  can  be  stewed  whole. 


164.]  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  61 

Put  the  mushrooms  when  tender  on  a  dish,  break  some  eggs 
upon  them  to  cover  the  surface,  and  in  doing  this  be  careful 
not  to  break  the  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  sprinkle  browned  crumbs  on  the  top,  and  put  the  dish 
in  a  hot  oven  till  the  eggs  are  set.  Serve  immediately.  Time 
to  stew  mushrooms,  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 

Dried  Haddock. 

162.  Boil  it  in  a  frying-pan,  with  just  enough  water  to 
cover  it ;  put  it  on  a  drainer  to  drain,  then  put  it  before  the 
fire  with  a  large  piece  of  butter  on  it. 

Herrings,  Pickled. 

163.  Take  half  a  pound  of  salt,  half  a  pound  of  bay-salt, 
one  grain  of  saccharin,  and  an  ounce  of  saltpetre.  Pound 
all  well  together  until  reduced  to  a  fine  powder.  Procure  the 
herrings  as  fresh  as  possible,  cut  off  the  heads  and  tails,  open 
them,  and  lay  them  for  one  hour  in  brine  strong  enough  to 
float  an  egg.  Drain,  dry  the  fish  with  a  soft  cloth,  and  put 
them  in  layers  into  a  deep  jar,  with  a  little  of  the  powder 
between  each  layer,  and  a  little  both  at  the  top  and  bottom  of 
the  jar.  When  the  jar  is  full  press  it  down  and  cover  it 
closely.     The  fish  will  be  ready  in  three  months. 

Kidney  Omelette. 

164.  Take  two  sheep's  kidneys  and  cut  into  slices;  fry  them 
over  a  clear  fire  for  three  or  four  minutes  in  a  little  butter ; 
mince  them  finely,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  beat  up  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  and  the  white  of  one,  add  the  minced 
kidney  to  them.  Put  an  ounce  of  butter  in  an  omelette-pan, 
let  it  remain  on  a  slow  fire  until  it  bubbles,  then  pour  in  the 
mixture,  and  stir  briskly  for  a  minute  or  two  until  the  eggs 
are  set.  Pold  the  edges  of  the  omelette  over  neatly,  and 
turn  it  carefully  upon  a  hot  dish.  Serve  immediately.  If  too 
much  cooled  it  will  be  tough. 


62  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [165- 

KiDNEYs,  Minced. 

165.  Chop  some  ox  kidney  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  pea, 
season  them  rather  highly  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  fry 
them  in  one  ounce  of  hot  butter  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
moving  them  about  frequently  in  the  pan  that  they  may  be 
equally  cooked.  Moisten  the  mince  with  two  or  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  good  brown  gravy. 

Broiled  Mutton  Kidneys. 

166.  Split  them  open  lengthwise  without  dividing  them, 
strip  off  the  skin  and  fat,  run  a  fine  skewer  through  the  points 
and  across  the  back  of  the  kidneys  to  keep  them  flat  while 
broiling,  season  them  with  pepper  or  cayenne,  lay  them  over  a 
clear,  brisk  fire  with  the  cut  sides  towards  it ;  turn  them  in 
from  four  to  five  minutes,  and  in  as  many  more  dish  and 
serve  them  quickly,  with  or  without  a  cold  maitre  d'hotel 
sauce  under  them.  Season  them  with  pepper  and  fine  salt, 
and  brush  a  very  small  quantity  of  oil  or  clarified  butter  over 
them  before  they  are  broiled. 

Duck  Olives. 

167.  Cut  into  two  joints  the  legs  of  a  cold  duck  or  chicken, 
take  off  the  drum-sticks,  mix  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pfpjier  with 
five  or  six  teaspoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  some  mixed  herbs,  a 
very  finely  chopped  onion,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped 
parsley.  Cut  four  thin  slices  of  bacon,  sprinkle  with  the 
crumbs,  roll  up  each  joint  of  fowl  in  the  bacon,  tie  securely ; 
make  hot  in  a  frying-pan  or  before  the  fire.  Serve  on  a  piece 
of  dry  toast  thinly  buttered. 

Potted  Pheasant. 

168.  Roast  the  birds  as  for  the  table,  but  let  them  be 
thoroughly  done,  for  if  lie  gravy  be  left  in  the  meat  will  not 
keep  lialf  so  well.  Raiise  the  flesh  of  the  breast,  Mings,  ami 
merrythought  quite  clear  from  the  bones ;  take  off  the  skin, 


1 71.1  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  63 

mince,  and  then  pound  it  very  smoothly  with  about  one-third  of 
its  weight  of  fresh  butter,  or  something  less  if  the  meat  should 
appear  of  a  proper  consistence  without  the  full  quantity ; 
season  it  with  salt,  mace,  and  cayenne  only,  and  add  these 
in  small  portions  until  the  meat  is  rather  highly  flavoured 
with  both  the  last.  Put  in  pots,  and  pour  oiled  butter  over 
them. 

Veal  Cake. 

169.  Cut  all  the  brown  off  some  slices  of  cold  veal,  and  cut 
two  hard-boiled  eggs  into  slices.  Get  a  pretty  mould,  lay 
ham,  veal,  and  eggs  in  layers,  and  some  chopped  parsley  and 
a  little  pepper  between  each,  and  when  the  mould  is  full  get 
some  strong  stock,  and  fill  up  the  shape.  Bake  half  an  hour, 
and  when  cold  turn  out. 

Broiled  Trout. 

170.  When  the  fish  is  thoroughly  cleaned,  wipe  it  dry  in  a 
cloth,  and  tie  it  round  with  thread  (to  preserve  its  shape). 
Melt  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
salt,  and  pour  it  over  the  trout  till  quite  covered;  let  it  re- 
main in  it  for  five  minutes,  then  take  it  out  and  place  on  a  grid- 
iron over  a  clear  fire,  and  let  it  cook  gradually  for  fifteen 
minutea 

SOUPS. 
Julienne  Soup. 

171.  Take  three  carrots,  three  turnips,  the  white  part  of  a 
heart  of  celery,  three  onions,  and  three  leeks.  Wash  and  dry 
the  vegetables,  and  cut  them  into  thin  shreds,  which  should 
be  not  more  than  one  inch  in  length.  Place  the  shreds  in  a 
stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  thera  over  a  slow 
fire  until  slightly  browned.  Pour  over  them  three  quarts  of 
clear  stock,  and  simmer  gently  for  an  hour,  or  until  the  veget- 
ables are  tender.  Carefully  remove  the  scum  and  grease,  and 
half  an  hour  before  the  soup  is  done  enough  add  two  pinches 


64  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [172- 

of  salt  and  two  pinches  of  pepper.     Julienne  is  seasonable  for 
nine  months  of  the  year  only. 


Mulligatawny  Soup,  Eabbit. 

172.  Cut  up  two  young  rabbits  into  small  pieces,  and  fry 
them  in  butter  until  they  are  nearly  dressed  enough,  with 
four  onions  sliced  finely.  Place  these  in  a  stewpan,  pour  in  a 
quart  of  stock,  and  simmer  for  an  hour.  Then  take  out  the 
rabbit  and  strain  ofT  the  onions,  replace  the  rabbit  in  the  stew- 
pan  with  two  more  quarts  of  stock  as  good  as  you  wish  to 
make  it,  and  when  it  boils  stir  in  two  tablespoonfals  of  curry- 
powder  flavoured  as  you  may  prefer. 

Hunter's  Soup. 

173.  Partially  roast  a  brace  of  well-kept  partridges,  or  a 
partridge  and  a  grouse.  Put  them  rather  close  to  a  clear  fire, 
and  baste  them  plentifully.  As  soon  as  the  outside  is  well 
browned,  take  them  up,  and  when  nearly  cold  cut  the  meat 
from  the  bones  into  nice  fillets,  and  bruise  the  bones  thoroughly. 
Cut  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  into  dice,  and  fry  these  in  one 
ounce  of  butter,  with  a  sliced  carrot,  an  onion,  and  a  little 
parsley.  Add  two  quarts  of  strong  beef  gravy,  the  bruised 
Ixmes,  and  a  little  salt  and  cayenne.  Simmer  gently  for  two 
hours,  and  then  strain  the  soup.  Add  the  slices  of  meat  and 
a  glass  of  claret,  and  let  it  heat  once  more  without  boiling. 

Mulligatawny  Soup. 

174.  This  is  a  soup  of  any  kind  flavoured  with  curry- 
powder.  Jt  is  highly  stimulating,  gives  tone  and  vigour  to 
the  digestive  organs,  and  is  frtquently  acceptable  in  very  hot 
or  cold  climates.  Nevertheless  we  do  not  recom.mend  its 
frequent  use,  though  it  may  occasionally  be  resorted  to  on 
festive  occasions. 


176.]  SOUPS,  65 

Ox-Tail  Soup,  Clear. 

175.  Cut  a  fine,  fresh  ox-tail  into  pieces  about  an  inch  long, 
and  divide  the  thick  part  into  four.  Wash  these  pieces,  and 
throw  them  into  boiling  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then 
drain  and  wipe  them  with  a  soft  cloth.  Put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  two  carrots,  an  onion  stuck  with  three  cloves,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  a  small  piece  of  thyme,  two  or  three  sticks  of 
celery,  ha'f  a  blade  of  mace,  a  teaspoonfal  of  salt,  six  or  eight 
peppercorns,  and  a  quart  of  water  or  clear  stock.  Boil,  re- 
move the  scum  carefully  as  it  rises,  then  draw  the  saucepan 
to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  simmer  very  gently  until  the  meat 
is  tender.     Lift  out  the  pieces  of  ox-tail,  and  strain  the  soup. 

Pheasant  Soup. 

176.  FJour  a  well-hung  pheasant  rather  thickly,  put  it  down 
to  a  brisk  fii-e,  and  roast  it  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  basting  it 
plentifully  all  the  time.  Take  it  from  the  fire  and  let  it  get 
nearly  cold,  then  take  off  the  flesh  from  the  breast  and  the 
upper  part  of  the  wings,  skin  it  and  put  it  aside.  Cut  up  the 
rest  of  the  bird,  and  bruise  the  bones.  Scrape  a  small  carrot 
finely,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  an  ounce 
of  the  lean  of  an  unboiled  ham  finely  minced,  a  small  sprig  of 
thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  handful  of  parsley,  half  a  blade  of  mace, 
three  or  four  cloves,  half  a  dozen  peppercorns,  a  shallot,  and 
three  or  four  of  the  outer  sticks  of  a  head  of  celery.  Stir  these 
ingredients  over  a  gentle  fire  until  they  are  brightly  browned, 
put  in  the  flesh  and  the  bruised  body  of  the  bird,  pour  over 
them  a  quart  of  veal  or  beef  stock,  and  after  boiling  stew 
gently  for  half  an  hour,  and  be  careful  to  remove  the  scum  as 
it  rises.  Strain  the  soup,  and  rub  the  meat  through  a  sieve. 
Mix  the  puree  with  the  soup,  add  to  it  a  small  pinch  of  cayenne, 
a  little  salt,  a  glassful  of  chablis,  and  the  fillets  of  the  pheasant 
cut  i]ito  thick  slices.  Stir  over  the  Hre  until  it  is  quite  hot, 
and  serve.     Time,  an  hour  and  a  half  or  more. 

5 


66  foods  for  the  fat.  [177. 

Pheasant  Soup — Another  Way. 

177.  Roast  a  well-hung  pheasant  according  to  the  directions 
given  in  the  last  recipe.  Take  off  the  flesh  from  the  breast 
and  wings ;  skin  it  and  lay  it  aside.  Divide  the  rest  of  the 
bird  into  joints,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  pour  over  it  a  quart 
of  unseasoned  beef  stock,  let  it  boil  and  simmer  gently  for 
three  hours.  Strain  the  soup  and  carefully  rub  the  meat 
through  a  sieve.  Pound  the  flesh  of  the  breast  in  a  mortar 
until  it  is  reduced  to  a  smooth  paste;  mix  with  it  an  ounce  of 
fresh  butter,  a  large  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  blade  of  mace 
powdered,  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne.  Mix  this  paste  with  the 
sonp,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  quite  hot,  skim  carefully, 
and  serve.     Time,  nearly  five  hours. 

Hare  Soup. 

178.  Take  the  remains  of  a  hare  which  has  been  roasted  the 
day  before,  add  to  it  a  few  bits  of  parsley,  a  stick  of  celery, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  also  about  a  quart  of  water  or  weak 
stock.  Simmer  gently  until  the  meat  is  nearly  off  the  bones  ; 
strain  it,  pick  the  meat  off  the  bones  ;  rub  this  well  through  a 
hair  or  fine  wire  sieve;  add  it  to  the  soup  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  half  a  glass  of  port  wine. 

Fowl  or  Chicken  Soup. 

179.  Have  ready  about  two  quarts  of  stock  from  veal  bones, 
put  to  it  some  vegetables — cairot,  onion,  celery,  parsley  and 
sweet  herbs.  Take  a  fowl  or  chicken,  cut  it  into  four  pieces, 
put  it  into  the  stock,  boil  or  simmer  gently  till  tender.  Strain 
the  soup ;  add  to  it  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste.  Cut  some  of  the  best  meat  off  the  fowl  in  neat 
pieces  or  joints,  and  add  them  also.  Warm  well  and  serve. 
A  chicken  if  young  will  not  require  to  stew  so  long  as  the 
vegetables. 


tC2.]  SOUPS.  67 

Game  Soup. 

180.  Take  any  game  too  old  for  roasting — a  couple  of 
parti idges  or  three  moor-fowl;  stew  them  well  and  slowly  in 
about  three  pints  of  stock.  When  tender,  take  them  out,  cut 
off  some  of  the  best  pieces,  return  the  rest  to  the  soup  ;  add 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  ketchup.  Let  this  simmer  gently 
while  you  prepare  the  pieces  you  have  cut  off.  Take  these 
pieces,  trim  them  neatly,  season  well,  shake  a  little  flour  over 
and  fry  a  nice  brown,  but  don't  let  them  be  greasy.  Strain 
the  soup  through  a  sieve,  rubbing  as  much  of  the  meat 
through  from  the  game  as  you  can ;  return  the  soup  to  the 
pan,  put  in  the  fried  pieces  of  game ;  make  it  very  hot,  and 
serve.  , 

Green  Pea  Soup. 

181.  Take  a  quart  of  green  peas,  a  stick  of  celery,  an  onion 
and  turnip,  all  cut,  some  mint,  and  about  a  quart  of  stock. 
Stew  till  tender,  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve.  If  too  thick, 
add  some  more  stock ;  add  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  saccharin ; 
have  ready  about  a  pint  of  young  green  peas,  parboiled  in 
water  with  a  little  mint,  add  them  to  the  soup,  and  let  the 
whole  simmer  until  tender,  then  serve. 

Oyster  Soup. 

182.  Allow  about  three  dozen  to  a  quart  of  soup.  Open 
them  carefully,  keep  and  strain  the  liquor  from  them,  beard 
the  oysters,  and  put  the  strained  liquor  over  them.  Take  a 
quart  of  the  palest  veal  stock  and  simmer  the  beards  in  it  for 
twenty  minutes  ;  strain,  adding  a  little  more  stock  if  required. 
Put  the  oysters  over  the  fire  in  their  own  liquor  to  plump 
them,  but  do  not  let  them  boil.  Put  the  soup  over  the  fire, 
add  mace  and  cayenne,  pour  the  liquor  from  the  oysters  to  it, 
put  the  oysters  into  the  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  over  tliera 
and  serve. 

5—2 


CS  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [183- 

FisH  Soup. 

133.  Take  any  white  or  fresh-water  fish,  cut  off  some  of  tlie 
best  pieces,  boil  the  bones  and  the  other  parts  of  the  fish  in  a 
quart  of  water  for  an  hour ;  let  it  get  cold,  or  nearly  so  ;  slice 
a  small  onion,  then  put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
put  in  the  onion,  let  it  brown ;  then  lay  in  the  pieces  of  fish 
which  were  kept,  add  pepper,  salt,  a  glass  of  chablis,  a 
tomato  sliced  and  cored  ;  pour  on  to  it  the  liquid  from  the  fish 
bones,  straining  it  to  prevent  the  bits  going  in  ;  add  a  little 
chopped  parsley ;  simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Serve  with 
fried  toast. 

Tomato  Soup. 

*  184.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  slice  six 
tomatoes,  two  carrots,  one  onion,  four  ounces  of  veal,  and  one 
of  ham,  add  to  the  butter,  let  it  steam  a  quarter  of  an  h<iur, 
then  add  a  good  quart  of  stock  (made  from  bones  or  beef), 
pepper,  salt  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Simmer  half  an 
hour,  take  out  the  herbs,  and  pulp  the  rest  though  a  sieve. 

Kidney  Soup. 

185.  Add  to  the  liquor  of  a  boiled  leg  of  mutton  a  bullock's 
kidney,  put  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  half  done  take  out  the 
kidney,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  the  size  of  dice.  Add  three 
sticks  of  celery,  three  or  four  turnips,  and  the  same  of  carrots, 
all  cut  small,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  tied  together; 
season  to  your  taste  with  pepper  and  salt.  Let  it  boil  slowly 
for  five  or  six  hours,  adding  a  spoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup. 
When  done,  take  out  the  herbs,  and  serve  the  vegetables  in 

he  soup. 

White  Soup. 

186.  Chop  up  any  remains  you  may  have  of  cold  veal, 
chicken,  game  or  rabbit  roasted  dry.  Grate  them,  beat  them 
in  a  mortar,  and  rub  them  through  a  sieve.     Then  add  to  the 


1 88.  J  SOUPS.  69 

panada  a  quart  of  stock,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  pay  great 
attention  to  skimmiucc  it 


Eabbit  Soup. 

187.  Skin  and  em})ty  a  fine  rabbit,  and  lay  the  liver  aside. 
Cut  it  into  joints,  and  fry  them  lightly ;  put  them  in  the 
stewpan  with  the  liver  and  three  pints  of  good  stock  made 
from  bones ;  let  them  simmer  as  gently  as  possible  for  an 
hour,  or  until  the  rabbit  is  done  enough,  carefully  remov- 
ing the  scum  as  it  rises.  Take  out  the  rabbit,  cut  off  the 
best  of  the  meat,  lay  it  in  a  covered  dish,  and  put  it  in  a 
cool  place.  Bruise  the  bones  and  put  them  back  into  the 
stock,  and  with  them  two  onions,  a  shallot,  a  carrot,  a  small 
bunch  of  parsley,  a  pinch  of  thyme,  three  or  four  outer  sticks 
of  celery,  and  a  little  salt  and  cayenne.  Simmer  the  broth 
two  hours  longer.  Take  out  the  liver,  rub  it  till  smooth  with 
the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon,  moisten  with  a  little  of  the 
liquor,  and  return  it  to  the  soup.  Just  before  sending  to 
table  add  half  a  glas'^ful  of  claret  and  a  teaspoonful  of  mush- 
room ketchup.  Cut  the  pieces  of  meat  into  dice,  let  them  get 
quite  hot  without  boiling,  and  serve  immediately.  Time, 
three  hours. 

Vegetable  Soup. 

188.  Wash,  trim,  and  cut  into  shreds  an  inch  long  a  small 
cabbage,  two  large  carrots,  two  turnips,  a  head  of  celery,  two 
leeks,  three  onions,  a  large  endive  or  a  lettuce.  Put  them  into 
an  iron  pot  with  half  a  pound  of  good  butter,  one  or  two  grains  of 
saccharin,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder, 
and  let  them  fry  till  of  a  good  brown  colour  ;  stir  constantly 
to  prevent  burning.  Add  two  quarts  of  water  and  boil 
moderately  fast  for  two  hours,  skimming  frequently.  Put 
into  the  tureen  a  wineglassful  of  marsala  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  tarragon  vinegar.     Pour  in  the  soup  and  serve  at  once. 


70  foods  for  the  fat,  [189- 

Cabbage  Soup. 

189.  Scald  one  large  cabbage,  cut  it  up  and  drain  it.  Line 
a  stewpan  with  four  or  five  slices  of  lean  bacon,  put  in  the 
cabbage,  also  three  carrots  and  two  onions ;  moisten  with  a 
little  stock,  and  simmer  very  gently  till  the  cabbage  is  tender; 
add  two  quarts  of  stock,  stew  softly  for  half  an  hour,  and 
carefully  skim  off  every  particle  of  fat.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Carrot  Soup. 

190.  Scrape  and  cut  out  all  specks  from  two  pounds  of 
carrots,  wash  and  wipe  them  dry,  and  then  reduce  them  into 
quarter-inch  slices.  Put  three  ounces  of  butter  into  a  large 
stewpan,  and  when  it  is  melted  add  two  pounds  of  the  sliced 
carrots,  and  let  them  stew  gently  for  an  hour  without  brown- 
ing. Add  to  them  two  quarts  of  stock  or  gravy-soup,  and 
allow  them  to  simmer  till  tender — say,  for  nearly  an  hour. 
Press  them  through  a  strainer  with  the  soup,  and  add  salt  and 
cayenne  if  required.  Boil  the  whole  gently  for  five  minutes, 
skim  well,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Brilla  Soup. 

191.  Take  four  pounds  of  shin  of  beef,  cut  off  all  the  meat 
from  the  bone  in  nice  square  pieces,  and  boil  the  bone  in  four 
quarts  of  water  for  four  hours.  Strain  the  liquor,  let  it  cool, 
and  take  off  the  fat ;  then  put  the  pieces  of  meat  in  the  cold 
liquor ;  cut  small  three  carrots,  two  turnips,  one  head  of 
celery,  two  onions,  add  them  with  a  large  sprig  of  thyme,  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  and  simmer  till  the  meat  is  tender.  If 
not  brown  enough,  colour  it  with  browning. 

Brown  Soup. 

192.  Take  one  pijit  of  finely-flavoured  stock ;  if  not  clear, 
beat  up  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  it  in  with  the 


194-]  SOUPS,  71 

crushed  shell,  and  beat  a  little.  Boil  for  five  minutes,  let  it 
stand  to  settle,  then  pass  carefully  through  a  napkin  or  tammy. 
Put  it  again  on  the  fire  in  a  clean  saucepan ;  if  not  dark 
enough,  stir  in  a  little  Liebig  or  some  of  Nelson's  extract  of 
meat.  Boil  by  themselves  a  few  asparagus-tops  or  other 
vegetables  ;  drain  them  when  tender,  and  put  them  to  the  soup 
as  it  is  about  to  be  served. 

GiBLET  Soup. 

193.  Clean  and  prepare  the  giblets  of  a  duck ;  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  brown  very  slightly ; 
add  half  an  onion,  four  peppercorns,  a  little  salt,  and  a  small 
bunch  of  herbs.  Pour  over  the  whole  nearly  one  quart  of  hot 
water ;  stew  gently  until  the  meat  is  done  to  rags.  Strain, 
and  when  perfectly  cold  remove  every  particle  of  fat.  Mix 
this  half-and-half  with  any  other  stock.  Warm,  add  a  dessert 
spoonful  of  chablis  and  a  very  little  saccharin  to  a  pint  of  this. 

Imperial  Soup. 

193*.  To  a  gill  of  clear,  well-flavoured  stock  mix  three  beaten 
eggs,  two  spoonfuls  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  the  liquid,. 
and  put  in  a  buttered  basin  or  mould.  Cover  with  greased 
paper  that  no  water  may  enter,  and  steam  the  custard  gently 
till  set.  When  cool  turn  it  out,  cut  it  into  thin  slices,  and 
divide  these  into  small  diamonds  or  squares.  Serve  in  a 
tureen  of  clear  soup.  The  above  will  be  a  sufficient  quantity 
for  two  quarts  of  soup. 

Lobster  Soup. 

194.  Pick  the  meat  from  a  large  freshly  boiled  new  lobster, 
cut  it  into  squares,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted. 
Take  away  the  brown  fin  and  bag  in  the  head,  and  beat  the 
small  claws,  the  fins,  and  the  chin  in  a  mortar.  Put  them 
into  a  stewpan,  and  with  them  a  small  onion,  a  carrot,  a  bunch 


72  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [195. 

of  sweet  herbs,  a  stick  of  celery,  the  toasted  crust  of  a  French 
roll,  a  small  strip  of  lemon-rind,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  pinch 
of  cayenne,  and  a  quart  of  unseasoned  stock.  Simmer  all 
gently  together  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  then  press  the 
soup  through  a  tamis  and  return  it  again  to  the  saucepan. 
Pound  the  coral  to  a  smooth  paste,  and  mix  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
and  cayenne  with  it.  Stir  these  into  the  soup,  add  the  pieces, 
and  when  quite  hot,  without  boiling,  serve. 


FISH. 
Mullet,  Gray,  Broiled. 

195.  Scale,  clean,  and  take  out  the  gills  and  inside.  A  fish 
of  about  two  pounds  would  be  best  for  this  mode  of  cooking. 
Score  the  mullet  on  both  sides,  lay  it  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  with 
salt,  and  pour  three  tablespoonf  uls  of  oil  over  it.  Turn  on  the 
dish,  drain,  and  when  to  be  broiled  fold  in  oiled  paper  or  not ; 
the  fire  should  be  moderate  and  even.  The  scores  should  not 
be  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep. 

Mullet,  Stewed. 

196.  Make  a  sauce  as  follows  :  Put  in  a  stewpan  three  wine- 
glassfuls  of  stock,  slice  thinly  a  small  carrot  and  turnip,  also 
half  a  small  lemon,  add  a  bay-leaf,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a 
bunch  of  thyme  and  parsley.  Lay  in  the  fish  and  stew  gently 
over  a  slow  fire.  Strain  the  gravy,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  serve  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish. 

Oysters,  Cold. 

197.  Oysters  are  never  so  excellent  as  when  they  are  eaten 
uncooked,  if  only  they  are  quite  fresh  and  newly  opened. 
Thin  brown  bread  and  butter  is  usually  served  with  them,  and 
either  lemon-juice  or  vinegar  and  pepper;  but  the  true  lover 
of  oysters  prefers  them  with  nothing  but  their  own  gravy. 


200.]  FISH.  73 

Oysters,  Omelette  of. 

198.  Mince  well  a  dozen  fried  oysters.  Mix  with  them 
half  a  dozen  well-beaten  eggs  ;  season  the  mixture  with  a  small 
pinch  of  salt,  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  the  eighth  of 
a  nutmeg  grated,  and  fry  the  omelette  in  the  usual  way.  Or 
beat  half  a  dozen  eggs  lightly,  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat  until 
they  are  delicately  set.  Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oyster 
sauce  into  the  centre,  fold  the  omelette  over,  and  serve  on  a 
hot  dish. 

Oysters,  Scalloped  (A  Simple  Method). 

199.  Open  and  beard  a  dozen  oysters  and  wash  them  in 
their  own  liquor.  Scrape  the  deep  shells  and  cleanse  them 
thoroughly.  Put  an  oyster  in  each  one,  season  it  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  sprinkle  breadcrumbs  thickly  upon  it.  Put  some 
little  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  arrange  the  shells  on  a  dish, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  or  in  a  Dutch  oven  before  a  brisk 
fire  until  they  are  lightly  browned.  Serve  very  hot.  Time 
to  bake,  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

Perch  fried  with  Herbs. 

200.  Take  two  moderate-sized  perch,  wash,  empty,  and 
scale  them  carefully,  wipe  them  dry,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish ; 
sprinkle  a  little  salt  and  pepper  over  them,  and  pour  on  them 
six  tablespoonfuls  of  oil.  Let  them  soak  for  half  an  hour,  and 
turn  them  once  during  that  time.  Drain  them  well,  and 
cover  them  thinly  with  finely-grated  breadcrumbs,  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  flavoured  with  a  powdered  clove  or 
a  little  grated  nutmeg,  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  chopped  parsley,  and 
a  pinch  of  powdered  thyme.  Fry  them  in  boiling  fat  till  the 
fish  are  brightly  browned.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  ;  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  send  piquant  sauce  to  table  in  a  tureen.  Time 
to  fry,  ten  minutes  or  more,  according  to  size. 


74  foods  for  the  fat.  [201- 

Lobster,  Cold. 

201.  Take  off  the  large  claws,  and  crack  the  shell  lightly, 
without  disfiguriDg  the  fish ;  split  open  the  tail  with  a  sharp 
knife,  and  dish  the  fish  on  a  folded  napkin,  with  the  head  in  an 
upright  position  in  the  centre,  and  the  tail  and  claws  arranged 
neatly  round  it ;  garnish  with  parsley,  salt,  cayenne,  mustard. 
Salad-oil  and  vinegar  should  be  eaten  with  it. 

Lobster  dressed  with  Sauce  Piquante. 

202.  Pick  the  meat  from  the  body  and  claws  of  a  freshl}'- 
boiled  cock  lobster,  and  divide  it  into  neat  pieces  about  half  an 
inch  square.  Take  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  pound 
them  well,  and  mix  with  them  a  teaspoonful  of  raw  mustard, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  grain  of  cayenne ;  add 
very  gradually  by  drops  at  first,  beating  well  between  every 
addition,  one  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil,  and  afterwards  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar  and  a  dessertspoonful  of 
very  hot  chilli  vinegary  pour  it  just  before  serving  over  the 
lobster,  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Lobster  Salad. 

203.  In  making  lobster  salad  be  careful  that  the  lobster  is 
sweet  and  fresh,  and  that  the  lettuces  are  crisp  and  dry. 
Unless  the  latter  are  perfectly  free  from  moisture,  the  sauce, 
instead  of  blending  properly,  will  be  liable  to  float  in  oily 
particles  on  the  top.  Take  the  meat  of  one  or  two  large 
lobsters,  divide  it  into  neat  pieces,  and  season  each  piece 
slightly  with  pepper,  salt  and  vinegar ;  place  a  bed  of  shred 
lettuce-hearts  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  put  a  layer  of  lobster 
on  top  of  it,  mixed,  if  liked,  with  a  few  slices  of  cucumber, 
cover  again  with  lettuce,  and  repeat  until  the  materials  are 
exhausted.  Decorate  the  borders  with  any  garnish  that  may 
suit  the  taste. 


2o6.]  FISH.  75 

Lobster  1  la  CrIime. 

204.  Pick  the  meat  from  a  large  freshly-boiled  cock  lobster, 
mince  it  finely,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  white  pepper,  the  eighth  of  a 
nutmeg  grated,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  one  of  light 
wine.  When  quite  hot,  put  with  it  a  little  fresh  butter  lightly 
rolled  in  flour,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thick  cream.  Simmer 
gently  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time,  and  when 
thoroughly  heated  put  the  mixture  into  the  shell  of  the  lobster, 
place  it  on  a  neatly  folded  napkin,  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Whiting,  Fried. 

205.  These  fish  are  generally  cleaned  and  skinned  at  the 
shop ;  if  not,  they  must  be  done  by  the  cook.  The  tails  should 
be  fastened  into  the  mouth ;  brush  them  over  well  with  egg, 
beaten  up,  and  fr}'^  a  nice  brown  in  boiling  lard  ;  drain  and 
dry  well     They  will  take  from  seven  to  ten  minutes  to  fry. 

Whiting  au  Gratin. 

206.  Take  two  full-sized  whitings  ;  empty,  scrape,  cleanse, 
and  wipe  them,  then  make  deep  incisions  on  each  side  with  a 
sharp  knife,  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch ;  butter  a 
shallow  dish  thickly,  sprinkle  upon  it  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
pour  gently  over  them  one  or  two  glassfuls  of  French  light 
wine,  and  lay  upon  the  fish  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
minced  mushrooms,  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley ; 
melt  an  ounce  of  butter,  pour  it  over  the  fish,  sprinkle  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  bread-raspings  on  the  top,  and  bake  the 
whitings  in  the  oven.  Send  a  cut  lemon  only  to  table  with 
the  fish.  If  it  is  preferred  that  the  wine  should  not  be  used, 
three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  pale  veal  gravy  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  it. 


76  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [207- 

WijiTiNG  Aux  Fines  Herbes. 

207.  Clean  and  skin  the  fish,  and  fasten  it  with  its  tail  in 
its  mouth.  Place  it  on  a  dish,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  sprinkle  over  it  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  sweet  herbs  in 
powder ;  lay  little  pieces  of  butter,  here  and  there,  thickly 
upon  it,  cover  with  another  dish  and  bake  in  a  moderately- 
heated  oven  till  done  enough.  Turn  it  once  or  twice  that 
it  may  be  equally  cooked,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured 
over  it. 

Haddocks,  Boiled. 

208.  Make  them  very  clean,  scrape  the  outside,  empty  them, 
and  wash  well ;  take  out  the  gills,  curl  them  round  like 
whiting,  or  lay  them  fiat  in  warm  water  with  some  salt  in  it. 
Let  the  water  boil,  skim  it,  then  simmer  for  ten  to  twelve 
minutes.     Serve  very  hot. 

Haddock,  Baked. 

209.  Wash  the  fish,  scrape  off  the  scales,  and  in  emptying 
it  open  it  as  little  as  possible  ;  sprinkle  a  little  salt,  and 
squeeze  the  juice  of  a  large  lemon  upon  it ;  let  it  stand  two 
or  three  hours,  turning  it  over  once  or  twice  during  the  time. 
Mix  the  finely-grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon  with  two  ounces  of 
grated  breadcrumbs ;  add  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of  a  small  nutmeg. 
Wipe  the  fish  quite  dry,  brush  it  over  with  beaten  egg,  and 
stiew  the  seasoned  crumbs  upon  it ;  put  it  on  a  wire  drainer  in 
a  dish,  pour  on  it  a  little  clarified  butter,  and  bake  it  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Baste  it  two  or  three  times  during  the  pro- 
cess.    Send  the  gravy  from  the  fish  to  table  with  it. 

Haddock,  Fillets  of. 

210.  Divide  the  flesh  from  the  bone  by  running  the  edge  of 
the  knife  along  the  side  of  the  spine,  and  take  off  the  skin. 


214.]  ^^5H.  77 

Dip  the  fillets  in  beaten  egg,  roll  them  in  fine  breadcrumbs, 
and  then  fry  them  in  hot  lard  or  drippiog.  When  browned  on 
both  sides  drain  from  the  fat  and  serve  them  on  a  hot  dish. 
Take  a  tablespoonful  of  mushrooms,  chopped  small,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  finelj-minced  shallots,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley.  Put  these  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pint  of  good  brown  sauce.  Simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
and  serve  in  a  tureen. 

Eed  Mullet,  Broiled. 

211.  Wash  it  well,  dry  in  a  cloth  ;  it  is  not  usually  scaled 
or  opened.  Put  it  into  buttered  writing-paper  fastened  tight 
at  the  ends  ;  broil  it  over  a  clear  fire  for  about  half  an  hour, 
or  it  can  be  baked  in  a  moderate  oven  for  the  same  time. 
Take  off  the  paper,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Red  Mullet,  Fried. 

212.  Melt  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  put  in  one 
good-sized  or  two  small  mullet,  squeeze  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  over  them,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Let  them 
fry  over  a  gentle  fire  until  they  are  done  enough,  turning  them 
over  when  half  done,  that  they  may  be  equally  cooked.  Serve 
on  a  hot  dish. 

Smelts. 

213.  These  fish  are  very  delicate  and  good,  if  quite  fresh. 
Draw  them  at  the  gills,  but  don't  open  them ;  dry  well  in  a 
cloth ;  dip  them  into  beaten  egg  and  fine  breadcrumbs.  Fry 
in  boiling  lard  or  fat  for  five  to  ten  minutes. 

Smelts,  Broiled. 

214.  Draw  carefully  and  wipe  a  couple  of  large  smelts, 
flour  them  well,  and  lay  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  gentle  fire. 
When  half  done  turn  them  carefully  upon  the  other  side. 
When  they  are  done  enough,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle 


78  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [215- 

a  little  salt  upon  them,  and  serve  immediately.     A  cut  lemon 
or  a  little  sauce  may  be  sent  to  table  with  them  if  preferred. 

Plaice,  Filleted. 

215.  Skin  the  plaice,  lay  it  flat  on  the  table,  and  with  the 
point  of  a  sharp  knife  cut  right  down  the  backbone.  Insert 
the  knife  close  to  the  head,  slip  it  under  the  flesh,  and  pass  it 
from  head  to  tail ;  by  this  means  the  fillet  may  be  removed 
entire  and  smooth,  and  the  fish  is  ready  to  be  fried  or  stewed. 

Stewed  Whiting. 

216.  Take  ofl"  the  skin  and  the  heads  and  tails ;  lay  the  fish 
in  a  stewpan,  and  season  each  one  with  a  quarter  of  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  grain  of  white  pepper,  a  quarter  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  mixed  sw^eet  herbs  in  powder,  and  for  the 
whole  (four  or  six)  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon.  Pour  in 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  dissolved  butter,  simmer  for  ten 
minutes  ;  add  a  large  wineglassful  of  marsala  and  the  strained 
juice  of  a  lemon ;  simmer  five  minutes  more.  Place  the  fish 
neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  over.  Send  to  table 
immediately. 

Boiled  Whiting. 

217.  Whiting  should  be  large  for  boiling,  and  with  the 
skin  taken  off  it  is  more  delicate.  Put  it  into  l)oiling  water, 
and  simmer  from  twelve  to  eighteen  minutes,  according  to 
the  size;  skim  well.  Drain,  and  serve  on  a  neatly  folded 
napkin. 

Boiled  Plaice. 

218.  Large  plaice  is  best  for  boiling.  Put  it  into  plenty  of 
hot  water,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a  wineglassful  of 
vinegar ;  boil  up  quickly,  skim,  and  then  simmer  gently  for 
twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes. 

Sole  au  Vin  Blanc. 

219.  Put  the  sole,  after  it  has  been  trimmed,  into  a  fishpan, 
and  with  it  some  slices  of  onion,  a  faggot  of  sweet  herbs,  a  couple 


221.]  FISH,  79 

of  cloves,  some  peppercorns  and  salt.  Spread  some  butter 
over  the  sole,  and  pour  in  enough  French  white  wine  to  cover 
it.  Let  it  boil  for  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  according  to  size  of 
fish.  Keep  it  covered  while  it  is  boiling.  When  it  is  done, 
remove  the  fish  ;  keep  it  hot  while  making  the  sauce.  Strain 
the  liquor,  return  it  to  the  pan,  and  add  the  yolks  of  one  or  two 
eggs,  according  to  the  quantity  of  liquor ;  only  do  not  put  too 
much  egg ;  just  enough  to  thicken  the  sauce  is  required.  Put 
in  a  little  chopped  parsley,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish  when 
thoroughly  hot,  and  serve  at  once.* 

Filleted  Soles  (Italian). 

220.  Skin  and  carefully  wash  the  soles,  separate  the  meat 
from  the  bone,  and  divide  each  fillet  in  two  pieces.  Brush  them 
over  with  white  of  egg,  sprinkle  thinly  with  breadcrumbs  and 
seasoning,  and  put  them  in  a  baking-dish.  Place  small  pieces 
of  butter  over  the  whole,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour.  When 
they  are  nearly  done,  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over  them, 
and  serve  on  a  dish  with  Italian  sauce  poured  over. 

Boiled  Sole. 

221.  Cleanse  and  wash  the  fish  carefully,  cut  off  the  fins, 
but  do  not  skin  it.  Lay  it  in  a  fish-kettle  with  sufficient  cold 
water  to  cover  it,  salted  with  a  little  salt.  Let  it  gradually 
come  to  a  boil,  and  keep  it  simmering  for  a  few  minutes, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  fish.  Dish  it  on  a  hot  napkin 
after  well  draining  it,  and  garnish  with  parsley  and  cut  lemon. 
Send  lobster  sauce  to  table  with  it. 

*  Dr.  Davy  says  :  '  If  we  give  our  attention  to  classed  people — classed 
as  to  the  kind  of  food  they  principally  subsist  on — we  shall  find  that  the 
fish-eating  class  are  especially  strong,  healthy,  and  prolific.  In  no  other 
cla-^s  than  in  that  of  fishers  do  we  see  larger  families,  handsomer  women, 
or  more  robust  and  active  men.  As  an  article  of  nourishment,  fish  does 
not  possess  the  satisfying  and  stimulating  properties  that  belong  t'l  the  fle-h 
of  animals  and  birds.  On  account  of  its  being  less  satisfying  than  meat, 
the  appetite  returns  at  shorter  intervals,  and  a  larger  quantity  is  required 
to  be  consumed.' 


So  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [222- 

Oysters,  Baked. 

222.  Mix  three  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-grated  breadcrumbs 
with  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  saltspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  and  a  quarter  of  a  nutmeg  grated.  Open  a  dozen 
oysters,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  roll  them  in  the  seasoned 
crumbs,  put  each  one  in  its  lower  shell,  and  lay  a  small  piece 
of  butter  upon  it.  Place  the  oysters  in  the  oven  or  before 
the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  until  they  are  quite  hot.  Before 
serving  squeeze  a  little  lemon-juice  upon  them. 

Oyster  Fritters. 

223.  Open  a  dozen  oysters,  and  warm  them  in  their  own 
liquor  for  a  minute  ;  j^ut  them  aside.  Beat  two  eggs,  and  mix 
with  them  half  a  tablespoonful  of  milk.  Add  a  little  salt,  a 
quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  a  quarter  of  a  nutmeg 
grated,  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pounded  mace,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-rind.  Dip  the  oysters 
into  this  batter,  and  then  into  finely-grated  breadcrumbs. 
Fry  in  hot  fat  until  they  are  brown  and  crisp.  They  may  be 
used  for  garnishing. 

Cod,  Crimped.         ^ 

224.  Make  some  deep  cuts  as  far  as  the  bones  on  both  sides 
of  a  perfectly  fresh  cod,  making  the  cuts  at  two  inches  distance, 
and  cut  one  or  two  gashes  on  the  cheeks  ;  then  lay  the  fish  in 
cold  water,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  in  it,  for  an  hour  or 
two.  It  may  afterwards  be  boiled  or  fried.  If  it  is  to  be 
boiled,  it  should  be  plunged  at  once  into  boiling  water,  and 
then  simmered  gently.  Crimping  renders  the  fiesh  firmer,  and 
makes  it  better  both  to  cook  and  to  serve. 


225.]  GRAVY,  8i 

GEAYY. 

When  meat  is  roasted,  it  exudes  a  thick  brown  essence 
known  as  osmazone ;  this  in  most  houses  is  allowed  to  remain 
in  the  vessel  or  tin  dish  in  which  the  meat  or  game  has  been 
cooked,  and  is  then  thrown  away  as  of  no  use.  The  proper 
way  to  make  gravy  is  to  skim  off  the  fat  the  meat  has  been 
basted  with,  and  then  pour  either  stock  or  boiling  water  on  the 
osmazone,  adding  a  little  salt,  and  stirring  until  it  is  all  dis- 
solved off  the  vessel  or  basting  dish ;  by  this  means  a  strong 
meat-flavoured  gravy  is  obtained  that  has  the  characteristics  of 
the  meat  cooked.  Those  who  prefer  a  flavoured  gravy  can  add 
Worcester  sauce  or  port  wine,  according  to  taste.  All  fat  should 
be  carefully  skimmed  off  before  it  is  sent  in  a  tureen  to  table, 
where  this  process  is  not  carried  out,  a  little  Liebig's  extract 
dissolved  in  boiling  water  is  a  substitute ;  but  this  has  not  the 
flavour  of  the  particular  dish  cooked,  and  is  not  to  be  com- 
pared to  the  other  process.  Hood  gravy  means  good  cookmg, 
a  rare  thing  in  most  households. 


DINNER   DISHES. 

Ox-tail,  Stewed. 

225.  Take  a  fine  ox-tail,  disjoint  it,  cut  it  into  pieces  about 
one  inch  and  a  half  long,  and  divide  the  thick  parts  into 
quarters.  Throw  these  pieces  into  boiling  water,  and  let  them 
remain  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.-  Take  them  up,  wipe  them 
with  a  soft  cloth,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  quarts 
of  stock  or  water,  a  large  onion  stuck  with  three  cloves,  three 
carrots,  a  bunch  of  savoury  herbs,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Simmer  gently  until  the  meat  parts  easily  from  the  bones, 
then  put  the  pieces  on  a  hot  dish,  reduce  the  gravy,  strain  it 
over  them  and  garnish  vv'ith  toasted  sippets.  A  little  lemon- 
juice  is  by  some  persons  considered  an  improvement.  Time, 
three  hours  and  a  half  to  stew  the  tail. 

G 


S2  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [226- 

OX-TAIL  STEWED  WITH   SpINACH. 

226.  Stew  the  ox-tail  according  to  the  directions  given  in 
the  last  recipe.  When  the  meat  is  tender,  lift  it  out,  strain  the 
gravy,  and  reduce  it  to  half  the  quantity.  .  Pour  it  again  over 
the  meat,  let  it  simmer  a  few  minutes,  then  serve  the  stew, 
neatly  arranged  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish  with  spinach  in  the 
centre. 

Beef  Trice. 

227.  Beat  and  lard  a  juicy,  tender  steak  of  two  pounds,  lay 
it  into  a  close-fitting  covered  stewpan,  with  equal  quantities  of 
water  and  vinegar.  Add  a  little  vegetable,  particularly  onion, 
and  stew  gently  for  two  hours ;  but  do  not  allow  it  to  burn  or 
stick  to  the  pan ;  when  cold,  cut  the  meat  into  strips,  smear  it 
with  beaten  egg,  and  strew  over  breadcrumbs  well  seasoned 
with  pepper,  shallot  and  suet.  Fry  till  it  is  of  a  light  brown 
colour,  which  will  be  in"  about  ten  minutes. 

Beefsteak,  Fried. 

228.  If  no  gridiron  is  at  hand,  put  some  butter  or  dripping 
in  a  frying-pan  and  let  it  boil ;  then  lay  in  a  steak  of  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  move  it  continually  with  the  side  of  a  knife  or 
steak-tongs  to  prevent  it  from  burning.  When  sufficiently  well 
done  on  one  side,  which  will  be  seen  by  the  colour  being  well 
spread  over  the  meat,  turn  it  on  the  other,  continuing  to  move 
it  about  with  the  tongs  in  a  similar  manner.  If  a  fork  must 
be  used,  do  not  stick  it  into  the  juicy  part  of  the  meat,  but 
into  the  fat  or  edge.  When  done,  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  a 
little  butter  and  some  mushroom  ketchup,  tomato  or  other 
sauce  or  gravy,  as  preferred. 

Calf's  Heart,  Roasted. 

229.  Wash  the  heart  thoroughly  in  several  waters,  then 
leave  it  to  soak  for  half  an  hour.     Wipe  it  dry,  and  fill  it 


232.]  DINNER  DISHES.  83 

with  good  veal  stuffing ;  tie  a  piece  of  oiled  paper  around  it, 
and  roast  it  before  a  good  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  or  more, 
according  to  the  size.  Before  serving,  take  off  the  paper,  and 
baste  it  well.  Send  it  to  table  with  plenty  of  good  brown 
gravy.* 

Calt's  Sweetbreads,  Stewed. 

230.  Put  two  sweetbreads  into  a  stewpan  with  some  nicely 
flavoured  stock,  and  let  them  simmer  gently  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  or  more.  Take  them  out  and  place  them 
on  a  hot  dish.  Draw  the  gravy  from  the  fire  for  a  iiiinute  or 
two,  and  add  to  it  very  gradually  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  Put 
this  over  a  gentle  fire  until  the  sauce  thickens,  but  do  not 
allow  it  to  boil.  Just  before  serving,  squeeze  into  it  the  juice 
of  a  lemon. 

Minced  Collops. 

231.  Mince  very  well  about  one  pound  of  raw  beef  (it  must 
be  tender  and  free  from  all  skin  or  fat),  season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  with  a  fork  frequently 
while  it  heats,  to  prevent  its  gathering  into  lumps  ;  it  must  be 
perfectly  smooth.  Continue  to  simmer  it  gently  for  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour;  if  it  gets  too  dry,  add  a  small  bit  of 
butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  gravy,  but  if  properly  cooked  it 
should  not  require  this.  S-rve  in  a  silver  dish  with  hot 
water  under,  as  it  should  be  served  very  hot. 

Boned  Shoulder  of  Mutton 

232.  Bone  a  lean  shoulder  of  mutton  (it  should  be  a  small 
lean  one  for  this  purpose),  cut  off"  the  knuckle-end  and  any 
loose  bits  of  skin.  Take  some  fresh  or  tinned  oysters, 
strain  the  liquor  from  them  and  beard  them,  rinse  them 
again  well  in  the  liquor.  Lay  your  mutton  on  the  table  on 
the  skin  side,  sprinkle  it  over  well  with  a  mixture  of  salt, 
pepper  and  mace;  then  lay  in  your  oysters,  roll,  and  bind 

*  See  Gravy,  page  81. 

6—2 


84  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [233 

round  with  tape.  Take  two  ounces  of  butter,  put  it  into 
a  saucepan  that  will  hold  the  mutton,  melt  it ;  then  add  a  few 
slices  of  onion,  some  peppercorns,  and  a  sprig  of  parsley  ;  let 
these  brown  a  little,  put  in  the  mutton,  add  as  much  stock  as 
will  be  about  an  inch  or  rather  more  deep  in  the  pan,  cover 
down  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  two  or  three  hours,  or  till 
quite  tender ;  strain  the  gravy,  add  to  it  a  little  ketchup, 
warm  well,  and  pour  round  the  mutton. 

Indian  Hash. 

233.  Take  some  thin  slices  of  cold  mutton  or  beef,  free 
from  skin  or  fat,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  some  good 
stock  ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  little  mace,  and  add  a  bit  of 
butter,  also  a  slice  of  lemon  without  rind  or  pips ;  cover  the 
pan,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes,  but  on  no  account  let  it 
boil.  Grate  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  rub  smooth  in 
a  small  basin,  add  to  them  a  large  teaspoonful  of  made 
mustard  ;  take  some  of  the  gravy  from  the  pan,  put  it  to  the 
above  until  it  is  a  thin  paste ;  pour  this  back  into  the  pan, 
take  out  the  lemon,  let  all  simmer  together  for  about  five 
minutes.     Serve  hot. 

Mutton,  Curried. 

234.  Cut  one  pound  of  tender  cold  mutton  in  small  square 
pieces.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  make  t 
boiling  hot,  add  two  ounces  of  onion  finely  minced,  brown 
this  slightly.  Then  add  one  ounce  of  curry-powder  and  one 
saltspoonful  of  salt,  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  curry-powder  is 
well  mixed  in,  then  put  in  the  mutton,  and  enough  stock  to 
keep  it  all  soft,  but  it  must  not  be  liquid.  Let  it  stew  gently 
for  ten  minutes  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

Guinea  Fowl,  Eoasted. 

235.  These  birds  should  hang  as  long  as  they  will  before 
being  cooked  ;  then  they  should  be  stuffed  like  a  turkey,  and 
served  with  gravy  and  a  sauce  piquante.  They  will  take 
about  an  hour  to  roast. 


239-]  ■  DINNER  DISHES.  85 

Boiled  Fowls. 

236.  Tako  one  quart  of  boiling  water  ani.1  one  quart  of  co^d 
water;  clean  and  truss  your  fowl  carefully.  The  legs  should 
be  drawn,  cutting  the  skin  at  the  first  joint,  and  then  put 
under  the  skin  into  the  bodies,  w^hile  the  wings  should  be  cut 
off  short  and  twisted  back ;  no  livers  or  gizzards  should  be 
trussed  with  boiled  fowd.  Put  them  into  water,  mixed  as 
above,  that  will  be  about  right  heat,  but  it  must  entirely 
cover  them ;  skim  well  when  it  comes  to  the  boil,  then  simmer. 
For  a  fowl,  an  hour ;  for  chickens,  about  half  the  time. 

Broiled  Chicken. 

237.  This  should  first  be  boiled  for  about  ten  minutes  ; 
then  allow  it  to  become  cold,  and  split  into  two,  wash  over  with 
beaten  egg,  cover  with  breadcrumbs,  and  broil  it  over  a 
clear  fire ;  it  will  take  half  an  hour,  or  if  a  large  chicken, 
longer.  Serve  very  hot.  The  legs  should  be  trussed  like 
those  of  a  boiled  fowl,  and  should  be  made  as  flat  as  possible. 
The  inside  should  be  put  first  on  the  grid. 

Pigeons. 

238.  These  are  good  roasted  or  stewed  ;  if  roasted,  they 
should  be  used  fresh  and  well  basted,  the  heads  and  necks  cut 
off,  and  trussed  like  a  duck ;  pour  plenty  of  water  through 
them  before  trussing,  and  wipe  dry.  Put  into  the  inside  of 
each  a  little  butter  and  a  bit  of  cayenne.  They  will  take  almost 
twenty-five  minutes,  but  if  very  young  not  so  long. 

Stewed  Pigeons  and  Mushrooms. 

239.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  cut  up 
two  pigeons  into  small  pieces,  let  it  stew  a  little,  but  not  brown  ; 
add  one  pint  of  good  gravy,  one  tablespoonful  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne  :  stir  well  until  it  just  boils, 


86  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  ,  [240- 

then  let  it  simmer  well  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  add 
one  or  two  dozen  small  mushrooms,  and  stew  ten  minutes 
longer  ;  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream.  Serve  on  a  hot 
dish,  putting  the  mushrooms  round  the  pigeons. 

Sweetbreads. 

240.  Have  one  or  two  very  fresh  sweetbreads,  trim  and 
half  boil  them  in  veal  broth ;  leave  till  nearly  cold,  then  wash 
them  over  well  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  put  them  into 
fine,  dry  breadcrumbs,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper ;  shake 
them  to  allow  any  loose  crumbs  to  drop  off,  then  fry  very 
gently  in  butter  or  lard. 

Sweetbreads  with  Sauce  Piquante. 

241.  The  sweetbread  must  first  be  blanched  thus  :  Half 
boil  it,  then  throw  it  into  cold  water  for  a  minute  or  two,  or  it 
may  be  left  in  the  water  until  nearly  cool ;  butter  it  all  over 
and  flour  well,  put  it  into  a  Dutch  oven  before  the  fire, 
keep  turning  it  and  basting  well  with  butter  until  it  is  nicely 
browned,  but  not  dried.  It  will  take  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Serve  with  the  following  sauce  :  Boil  together  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  onion,  same  of  parsley  and  of  mushroomS) 
in  one  ounce  of  butter  for  five  minutes,  then  add  half  a  pint  of 
good  stock ;  add  salt  and  cayenne,  and  stir  in  last  one  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar.     Boil  a  few  minutes. 

Larks,  Broiled. 

242.  Pick  and  clean  a  dozen  larks,  cut  off  their  heads  and 
legs,  truss  them  firmly,  rub  them  over  with  beaten  egg,  and 
strew  breadcrumbs  and  a  small  pinch  of  salt  over  them.  Broil 
them  over  a  clear  fire,  and  serve  them  on  thin  toasted  bread. 
Time,  ten  minutes. 

Liver,  Fried. 

243.  Take  one  pound  of  fresh  (;alf's  liver,  cut  it  into  neat 
slices,"  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  ;  cover  the  bottom  of  the 


246.]  DINNER  DISHES.  87 

frying-pan  with  some  clear  dripping,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
depth;  place  the  pan  on  the  fire,  and,  when  the  dripping 
ceases  hissing,  put  in  the  liver,  and  in  five  minutes  turn  it. 
When  done  enough,  dish  it  and  serve  very  hot.  Time,  a 
quarter  of  an  hour. 

Perdrix  au  Vin. 

244.  Eoast  two  partridges ;  put  into  a  stewpan  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  rich  gravy,  a  glass  of  claret,  salt,  pepper,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  cayenne.  Cut  up  the  birds, 
keeping  them  very  hot.  Make  the  sauce  very  hot  over  the 
fire,  and  pour  over  the  partridges. 

Pheasant,  Boiled. 

245.  Pick,  draw,  and  singe  the  pheasant,  and  truss  it  firmly, 
as  if  for  roasting;  cover  with  buttered  paper,  wrap  it  in  a 
floured  cloth,  plunge  it  into  boiling  water,  and  after  it  has 
once  boiled  up  draw  it  to  the  side,  and  let  it  simmer  as  gently 
as  possible  until  it  is  done  enough.  The  more  gently  it  is 
simmered  the  better  it  will  look,  and  the  tenderer  it  will  be. 
Put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  small  quantity  of  sauce  over  it, 
and  send  the  rest  to  table  in  a  tureen.  Time  to  boil,  half  an 
hour  from  the  time  of  boiling  for  a  small  young  bird  ;  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  for  a  larger  one ;  one  hour  or  more  for 
an  old  one. 

Pheasant,  Broiled. 

246.  Pick,  draw  and  singe  the  pheasant,  and  divide  it 
neatly  into  joints ;  fry  these  in  a  little  fat  until  thyy  are 
equally  and  lightly  browned  all  over,  drain  them  well,  season 
with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  dip  them  into  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs. Broil  over  a  clear  fire  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish,  with 
mushroom  sauce  or  piquante  sauce  as  an  accompaniment 
The  remains  of  a  cold  roast  pheasant  may  be  treated  in  this 
way.     Time  to  broil,  about  ten  minutes. 


88  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [247- 

Pheasant,  Salmi  of. 

247.  Roast  a  well-hung  pheasant  until  it  is  a  little  more 
than  half-dressed,  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  when  it  is 
almost  cold  cut  it  into  neat  joints,  and  carefully  remove  the 
skin  and  fat.  Put  the  meat  aside  until  wanted,  and  place  the 
bones  and  trimmings  in  a  saucepan  with  an  ounce  of  fresh 
butter,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  a  bay-leaf,  and  stir  these  in- 
gredients over  a  slow  fire  until  they  are  lightly  browned,  then 
pour  over  them  half  a  pint  of  good  brown  sauce  and  a  glassful 
of  sherry.  Let  them  simmer  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ; 
strain  the  gravy,  skim  it  carefully,  add  a  pinch  of  cayenne  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan  with 
the  pieces  of  game.  Let  them  heat  very  gradually,  and  on  no 
account  allow  them  to  boil.  Pile  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour 
the  hot  sauce  over  them,  and  garnish  with  fried  sippets.  If 
there  is  no  brown  sauce  at  hand  it  may  be  prepared  as  follows  : 
Mince  finely  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  lean  of  an  unboiled 
ham,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
a  shallot,  a  large  scraped  carrot,  two  or  three  mushrooms  (if  at 
hand),  a  blade  of  mace,  a  small  sprig  of  thyme,  a  handful  of 
parsley,  two  cloves,  and  half  a  dozen  peppercorns.  Stir  these 
over  a  slow  fire  until  they  are  brightly  browned,  then  dredge 
a  tablespoonful  of  flour  over  them,  and  let  it  colour  also- 
Pour  in  gradually  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water  and  a  glass- 
ful of  sherry  ;  add  a  little  salt  and  the  bones  and  trimmings  of 
the  phea>.ants ;  let  the  sauce  boil  up,  then  draw  the  saucepan 
to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  it  keep  simmering  for  an  hour 
and  a  half.  Strain  the  gravy  and  skim  carefully,  put  it  back 
into  the  saucepan  with  the  joints  of  meat,  a  little  saccharin, 
and  a  little  lemon-juice.  Heat  slowly  and  serve  as  above. 
Time,  twentj''  to  thirty  minutes  to  roast  the  pheasant ;  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  in  the  first  instance,  or  an  hour  and  a 
half  in  the  second,  to  simmer  the  sauce. 


251.]  dinner  dishes.  89 

Pheasant,  Roast. 

248.  Pluck,  draw  and  singe  a  brace  of  pheasants.  Wipe  them 
with  a  dry  cloth,  truss  them  firmly,  and  either  lard  or  tie  round 
the  fereasts  a  piece  of  fat  bacon.  Flour  them  well,  put  them 
before  a  clear  fire,  and  baste  liberally.  When  they  are  done 
enough  remove  the  bacon,  serve  the  birds  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
garnish  with  watercress.  Send  good  brown  gravy  to  table 
with  them.  If  the  fashion  is  liked,  half  a  dozen  of  the  best  of 
the  tail  feathers  may  be  stuck  into  the  bird  when  it  is  dished. 
Time,  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  roast  a  good-sized  pheasant. 
The  drumsticks  are  generally  excellent  when  devilled. 

Peafowl,  Larded  and  Roasted. 

249.  Choose  a  young  bird,  lard  it  closely  over  the  breast  and 
legs,  fill  it  with  a  good  veal  forcemeat — but  the  forcemeat  may 
be  oraijbted — truss  it  firmly,  and  roast  before  a  clear  fire  for  an 
hour  or  an  hour  and  a  half,  according  to  the  size  of  the  bird. 
When  done  enough,  take  off  the  buttered  paper  which  was 
round  the  head,  trim  the  feathers,  glaze  the  larding,  and  serve 
the  bird  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  clear  brown  gravy  under  it. 
Garnish  the  dish  with  watercress. 

Partridges,  Broiled. 

250.  Prepare  the  partridges  as  if  for  roasting,  cut  off  their 
heads,  split  them  entirely  up  the  back,  and  flatten  the  breast- 
bones a  little.  Wipe  them  thoroughly  inside  and  out  with  a 
damp  cloth,  season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  broil  over  a 
gentle  lire.  As  soon  as  they  are  done  enough  rub  them  quickly 
over  with  butter,  and  send  them  to  table  on  a  hot  dish,  with 
brown  gravy  or  mushroom  sauce  in  a  tureen.  Time,  fifteen 
minutes  to  broil  the  partridges. 

Partridges,  Salmi  of. 

251.  Prepare  three  partridges,  lard  the  breasts  well,  and 
roast  them,  but    leave   them    rather    underdone.     Leave    till 


90  FOODS  FOF  THE  FAT.  [252- 

cold ;  take  off  the  skin  and  cut  in  joints ;  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  over  half  a  pint  of  good  broth,  add  two  or  three 
shallots  and  a  bit  of  thin  lemon-peel,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste, 
and  four  teaspoonfuls  of  Worcester  or  any  other  good  sauce. 
Pat  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  stew  down  to  half  the  quantity. 
Strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve,  dish  the  partridges  with 
a  thin  slice  of  fried  bread  between  the  pieces  ;  pour  the  sauce 
over,  and  add  a  squeeze  of  lemon-juice. 

Salmi  of  Partridges,  Cold. 

252.  Prepare  as  above.  When  done,  strain  the  sauce  and 
leave  all  to  become  cold.  The  sauce  can  have  a  little  Nelson's 
gelatine  put  to  it,  and  be  left  to  set.  .After  it  is  all  nearly  cold, 
arrange  the  pieces  of  partridge  in  a  mould,  first  putting  a  little 
of  the  sauce  at  the  bottom,  fill  up  with  the  sauce,  and  ice  the 
whole  together.  Turn  out ;  serve  with  savoury  or  aspic  jelly 
round. 

Pigeons,  Compote  of. 

253.  Truss  a  dozen  plump  young  pigeons  as  if  for  boiling. 
Lard  them  down  the  breasts,  or,  if  preferred,  cover  their  breasts 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon.  Fry  them  in  hot  butter  till  they 
are  equally  and  lightly  browned  all  over,  then  divide  them  and 
put  them  in  side  by  side  in  a  saucepan  large  enough  to  contain 
them.  Barely  cover  them  with  good  gravy,  and  add  half  a 
dozen  small  onions,  a  dozen  button  mushrooms,  a  glassful  of 
claret,  a  little  salt  and  cayenne.  Let  the  birds  stew  gently  for 
half  an  hour,  then  add  a  large  tahlespoonfui  of  tomato  sauce, 
and  stew  a  few  minutes  longer.  Place  the  birds  on  a  hot  dish, 
with  the  sauce  around  them. 

Pigeons  served  with  Watercress. 

254.  Roast  a  couple  of  young  pigeons  in  the  usual  way. 
Wash  and  pick  two  or  three  bunches  of  young  watercress,  and 
dry  them  well ;  to  do  this  put  them  into  a  dry  cloth,  take 


256.]  DINNER  DISHES,  91 

hold  of  this  by  the  four  corners  and  shake  the  leaves  until  they 
are  dry  ;  put  them  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  them,  lay 
the  pigeons  upon  them,  and  pour  brown  gravy  over.  The 
cresses  are  sometimes  arranged  round  the  dish  instead  of  being 
placed  under  the  birds.  Time,  about  twenty  minutes  to  roast 
the  pij^eons. 

Mutton,  Neck  of,  Boiled. 

255.  Shorten  the  ribs  and  saw  off  the  chine-bone  of  a  neck 
of  mutton,  or  from  three  or  four  jDOunds  of  the  best  end ;  to 
look  well  it  should  not  exceed  five  inches  in  length.  Pare  off 
the  fat  that  is  in  excess  of  what  may  be  eaten,  and  boil  slowly 
in  plenty  of  water,  slightly  salted ;  skim  carefully  and  remove 
the  fat  from  the  surface.  The  meat  may  be  served  plainly 
with  caper  or  parsley  sauce,  and  a  garnish  of  boiled  turnips 
and  carrots  cut  into  thin  strips  placed  alternately  round 
the  dish.  Four  middle-sized  turnips  or  three  carrots  may 
be  boiled  with  the  mutton.  Time,  a  full  (quarter  of  an  hour 
to  the  pound. 

Mutton,  Kebobbed. 

256.  This  favourite  Oriental  dish  can  be  prepared  with  our 
English  mutton  in  a  manner  far  superior  to  any  kebob  at 
Turkish  or  Egyptian  tables.  Take  a  loin  of  mutton,  joint  it 
well  at  every  bone,  cut  off  all  superfluous  fat,  particularly  of 
the  kidney,  and  remove  the  skin.  Prepare  a  well-proportioned 
and  large  seasoning  of  the  following  ingredients  :  Some 
breadcrumbs,  sweet  herbs,  nutmegs,  pepper  and  salt.  Brush 
the  mutton  chops  over  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  sprinkle  the 
above  mixture  thickly  over  them ;  then  tie  the  chops  together 
in  their  original  order,  run  a  slender  spit  through  them,  and 
roast  before  a  quick  fire,  basting  them  well  with  butter  and 
the  drippings  from  the  meat,  and  throwing  more  of  the  season- 
ing on  them  from  time  to  time.  Serve  with  the  gravy  from 
the  meat. 


92  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [257- 

MUTTON,    EOEBUCK   FASHION. 

257.  Take  a  loin  of  mutton  that  has  been  well  hung. 
Remove  the  fillet,  skin,  and  cut  away  the  fat  and  bones.  Lay 
the  loin  in  a  marinade  composed  of  equal  parts  of  vinegar  and 
water,  to  a  pint  of  which  add  a  glass  of  port  or  claret,  a 
couple  of  carrots,  and  two  large  onions  cut  into  quarters  with 
a  clove  in  each,  a  dozen  peppercorns,  two  blades  of  mace,  a 
bunch  of  herbs  and  parsley,  some  bay-leaves,  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt.  When  the  mutton  has  lain  in  the  marinade 
twenty-four  hours  turn  it,  and  let  it  lie  until  next  day  ;  then 
drain,  and  put  it  into  a  braising-pan  with  a  little  of  the  pickle, 
the  pan  being  well  lined  with  bacon.  Stew  it  three  hours. 
Glaze  the  meat  and  serve  with  gravy,  adding  walnut  ketchup 
and  a  glass  of  claret. 

Indian  Fagadu. 

258.  Pick  the  meat  from  a  lobster  and  a  pint  of  shrimps, 
cut  it  into  small  bits,  and  season  it  with  an  onion  and  a  clove 
of  garlic  shred  finely,  and  some  cayenne  and  salt.  Prepare 
some  spinach  as  for  boiling,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  in  the  usual 
way  without  water,  add  the  lobster,  and  stew  gently  with  an 
onion  or  two  sliced  and  previously  fried  in  butter,  keeping  the 
lid  closed  for  some  time.  When  nearly  done,  stir  the  contents 
over   the  fire  to  absorb  the  moisture,   and  when  quite  dry 

queeze  in  some  lemon-juice. 

Curried  Sweetbreads. 

259.  Wash  and  soak  one  or  two  sweetbreads,  put  them  into 
some  boiling  water  with  a  little  salt,  an  onion,  and  a  bit  of 
parsley ;  let  them  simmer  for  ten  minutes  (any  pale  broth  is 
better  than  water)  ;  take  tliem  out,  leave  them  to  drain  and 
get  quite  cold,  then  cut  tliem  into  slices,  about  half  an  inch 
thick,  and  fry  lightly.  Have  some  good  curry,  put  the  slices 
into  this,  and  stew  gently  for  twenty  minutes;  cocoanut-milk 


262.]  DINNER  DISHES.  9c 

must  be  added  with  the  sweetbread,  or  about  ten  minutes 
before  serving. 

Leveret,  Eoasted. 

260.  Leverets  may  be  used  when  hares  are  out  of  season. 
They  should  be  trussed  in  the  same  way,  and  may  be  stuffed 
or  not  (with  hare  stuffing),  according  to  preference.  A  leveret 
is  best  when  larded,  but  if  this  cannot  be  done,  cover  it  either 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon  or  with  a  thickly  buttered  piece 
of  white  paper.  Eoast  it  before  a  brisk  fire,  and  baste  it  con- 
stantly, and  a  few  minutes  before  it  is  taken  down  remove  the 
bacon  or  paper.  Serve  it  very  hot,  and  send  red-currant  jelly 
to  table  with  it  as  well  as  the  following  gravy,  a  little  of  which 
may  be  put  in  the  dish  and  the  rest  in  a  tureen  :  Thicken  half 
a  pint  of  stock  with  a  small  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  let 
it  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  stir  a  wineglassful  of  port  into  it, 
boil  up  once  more,  and  serve.  Time,  an  hour  to  roast  the 
leveret. 

Meat  Pie  a  la  Don  Pedro. 

261.  This  is  a  kind  of  ragout  put  into  a  tin  made  expressly 
for  the  dish.  Take  some  mutton  chops,  either  from  the  loin 
or  neck,  trim  them  neatly,  and  toss  them  with  some  chopped 
parsley,  butter,  pepper,  and  salt,  etc.,  in  a  stewpan  over  a 
slow  fire.  Place  the  chops  with  some  good  brown  stock  into 
the  tin  baking-dish,  and  add  slices  of  lean  ham,  and  cover 
with  the  lid. 

Omelette  with  Gravy. 

262.  Whisk  half  a  dozen  fresh  eggs  thoroughly,  and  mix 
with  them  a  small  pinch  of  salt,  two  pinches  of  pepper,  a 
tablespoonful  of  finely  minced  parsley,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  onions,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  nicely  seasoned 
gravy.  Dissolve  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  in  a  hot  frying- 
pan,  over  a  gentle  fire,  and  fry  the  omelette  in  the  usual  wa}^ 
Serve  it  on  a  hot  dish  with  half  a  pint  of  good  gravy  poured 
round  it.     Time  to  fry,  six  or  seven  minutes. 


94  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [263. 

Onions  with  Beefsteak,  etc. 

263.  Take  two  large  Spanish  onions,  remove  a  thin  piece 
off  each  end,  peel  off  the  outer  skins,  and  cut  them  into 
slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Place  an  ounce  of  butter  or 
good  dripping  in  a  saucepan,  let  it  melt,  then  put  with  it  a 
pound  of  steak,  dividing  it  into  pieces  a  little  thinner  than  for 
boiling.  Brown  these  in  the  butter,  add  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  the  sliced  onions,  three  ounces  more  of  butter,  but  no 
liquid  ;  cover  the  saucepan  closely,  and  simmer  a?  gently  as 
possible  till  done.  Arrange  the  steak  neatly  in  the  centre  of  a 
hot  dish,  boil  up  the  onion  gravy  sauce  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
walnut  ketchup,  pour  it  over  the  meat,  and  serve  immediately. 
Chickens  or  rabbits  are  sometimes  cooked  in  the  same  way. 
Time,  about  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Filets  de  Bceuf  aux  Truffes. 

264.  Cut  out  the  inside  of  a  sirloin  of  beef,  beat  it  well  to 
make  it  tender,  cut  it  in  slices,  trimming  them  neatly;  lay 
them  in  oil,  and  let  them  soak  for  ten  minutes,  then  fry  in 
butter.  Chop  up  some  parsley,  lemon  thyme,  half  a  shallot, 
and  slice  some  truffles  (that  have  been  previously  cleaned  and 
brushed,  boiled  for  twenty  minutes  in  some  good  stock, 
quarter  of  a  pint,  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  pepper  and 
salt),  add  fifteen  drops  of  vinegar.  Lay  the  herbs  in  the 
middle  of  the  dish  and  the  fillets  round,  and  the  trufiles  round 
the  fillets. 

Boiled  Eabbits. 

265.  Select  very  young  ones  for  boiling;  wash  and  clean 
well.  Fasten  the  head  to  the  side.  Have  water  boiling  and 
skimmed  ready,  put  in  the  rabbits,  and  simmer  gently  for  half 
to  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

EoAST  Eabbit. 

266.  Rabbits  can  be  cooked  much  the  same  as  hares,  but 
they    will    take    hardly   an    hour   to   roast.      If    liked,    the 


270.]  DINNER  DISHES.  95 

backbone  can  be  taken  out ;  it  must  be  carefully  done,  so  as 
not  to  break  the  skin.  A  rabbit  done  this  way  will  require 
much  more  stuffing  put  into  it ;  a  little  thin  bacon  or  slices  of 
ham  may  be  put  in  before  the  stuffing.  Baste  well.  Red- 
currant  jelly  is  also  sent  in  with  roast  rabbit.     (See  Gravy.) 

Rabbit  1  la  Tartars. 

267.  Take  a  rabbit  and  bone  it.  Then  cut'  it  into  pieces, 
which  marinade  some  hours  in  parsley,  mushrooms,  chives  and 
a  clove  of  garlic,  all  chopped  fine,  together  with  pepper,  salt 
and  oil ;  dip  each  piece  of  rabbit  in  breadcrumbs,  broil, 
sprinkling  the  pieces  with  the  marinade.  Serve  in  a  sauce 
k  la  Tartare.     (See  Tartar  Sauce.) 

Rabbit  with  Tomato  Sauce. 

268.  Cut  a  rabbit  in  pieces,  fry  a  light  brown  slowly  (it  is 
best  done  in  a  stewpan)  in  a  little  butter  or  lard,  add  pepper, 
salt  and  a  small  sliced  onion.  Pour  on  to  it  some  tomato 
sauce,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  gravy,  and  stew  for  half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Rabbits  that  have  been  roasted  and  are 
rather  underdone  can  be  cooked  this  way  after. 

Stewed  Rabbit. 

269.  Cut  up  into  neat  joints.  Take  a  large  flat  stewpan,  make 
it  hot,  put  into  it  a  lump  of  lard  about  the  size  of  a  large  walnut, 
put  in  the  joints  of  rabbit  so  that  each  piece  touches  the 
bottom  of  the  pan,  add  a  little  sliced  onion,  and  sprinkle  over 
them  a  little  flour ;  brown  both  sides.  Then  pour  over  it  a 
pint  of  boiling  water  or  weak  stock,  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  two  or  three  cloves,  a  bit  of  allspice,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
and  two  bay-leaves.  Simmer  slowly  for  one  hour  and  a  half, 
then  add  a  tumbler  of  claret,  and  simmer  again  for  one  hour. 
It  must  not  be  allowed  to  do  fast,  or  it  will  dry  up  too  much. 

Rabbit,  Fricasseed. 

270.  Cut  a  young  rabbit  into  neat  joints,  lay  it  in  a  stew- 
pan, and  cover  with  goud  stock.     Let  the  liquid  boil,  then  put 


96  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [271- 

with  it  three  onions,  three  carrots,  three  turnips,  and  three 
sticks  of  celery,  all  sliced ;  add  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  sprig  of 
thyiiie,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  and 
a  small  quantity  of  saccharin,  and  stew  all  gently  together 
until  the  vegetables  are  quite  soft.  Lift  the  vegetables  out, 
rub  them  through  a  sieve  with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon. 
Stir  the  pur^e  over  the  fire  with  a  tablespoonful  of  the  gravy  for 
two  or  three  minutes  to  make  it  quite  hot.  Put  the  pieces  of 
rabbit  on  a  dish,  cover  with  the  pur6e,  and  pour  the  sauce 
over  all.     Serve  very  hot.     Time,  one  hour. 

Kabbit,  Ragoitt  of. 

271.  Skin,  empt}^  and  wash  a  plump  young  rabbit,  cut  it 
up  into  ten  or  twelve  pieces,  and  lay  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
dozen  button  mushrooms,  half  a  dozen  small  onions,  a  bunch 
of  parsley,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  a  bay-leaf.  Pour  over  these 
ingredients  as  much  boiling  stock  or  water  as  will  cover  them, 
and  let  them  simmer  very  gently  until  the  rabbit  is  tender. 
Lift  out  the  rabbit,  skim  and  strain  the  sauce,  and  thicken 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  brown  thickening.  Season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  grated  nutmeg,  and  let  it  boil  till  smooth.  Add  a 
wine-glassful  of  chablis,  if  liked.  Put  in  the  pieces  of  meat. 
Let  them  get  thoroughly  hot  without  allowing  the  gravy 
to  boil,  arrange  them  neatly  in  a  dish,  pour  the  gravy  over 
them,  and  serve  very  hot.  Time  to  simmer  the  rabbit,  from 
an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours. 

Chicken  1  la  Marengo. 

272.  Cut  a  fine  chicken  into  neat  joints,  season  it  with  salt 
and  cayenne,  and  fry  it  till  done  in  about  half  a  tumblerful  of 
oil  or  clarified  butter.  When  half  cooked,  add  a  clove  of 
garlic,  two  shallots,  and  a  faggot  of  sweet  herbs.  Drain  the 
meat  from  the  fat,  and  mix  with  the  latter  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  and  very  gradually  sufficient  good  stock  to  make  the 
sauce  of  the  consistence  of  thick  cream.  Stir  it  till  it  is 
thick  and  smooth.     Put  the  chicken  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the 


275.]  DINNER  DISHES.  97 

sauce  over  it,  and  serve.  If  liked,  mushrooms  or  fried  eggs 
may  be  taken  to  garnish  the  dish.  Time,  about  twenty-five 
minutes  to  fry  the  cliicken. 

Chicken,  Devilled. 

273.  The  best  parts  of  chicken  for  a  devil  are  the  wings  and 
legs.  Remove  the  skin,  score  the  flesh  deeply  in  several 
places,  and  rub  in  a  mixture  made  of  salt,  pej^per,  cayenne, 
mustard,  anchovy  and  butter.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire,  and 
serve  the  fowl  hot  on  a  napkin. 

Chicken,  Fried. 

274.  Take  the  remains  of  a  cold  chicken,  cut  it  into  neat 
pieces,  brush  a  little  oil  over  each  piece,  and  strew  over  it 
lather  thickly  salt  and  curry  powder.  Melt  a  little  butter  in 
a  frying-pan,  and  fry  some  onions,  cut  into  thin  strips  about 
half  an  inch  long  and  the  eighth  of  an  inch  wide  ;  fry  them 
slowly,  and  keep  them  in  the  pan  until  they  are  a  dark  brown 
colour  and  quite  dry.  They  will  require  a  little  care,  as  they 
must  on  no  account  be  burnt.  Fry  the  chicken,  strew  the 
onions  over  it,  and  serve  with  slices  of  lemon.  Time  to  fry 
the  chicken,  ten  minutes. 

Calf's  Liver  X  la  mode. 

275.  After  well  washing  the  calf's  liver,  soak  it  for  a  short 
time  in  cold  water,  then  wipe  it  dry,  and  insert  lardoons  of 
bacon  at  equal  distances  in  the  interior  part  of  the  liver ;  put 
it  into  a  stewpan  with  about  two  ounces  and  a  half  of  butter,  a 
small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  tied  together,  half  a  blade  of  mace, 
and  a  small  onion  stuck  with  six  cloves,  and  fry  it  a  nice 
brown  ;  then  add  three  carrots,  two  turnips^  an  onion  cut  into 
vi^heels,  and  a  wineglassful  of  brandy  with  sufficient  water  to  just 
cover  the  whole.  Baste  it  frequently  with  its  own  gravy,  and 
let  it  simmer  slowly  for  two  hours.  When  done,  take  out  the 
liver  aad  put  it  on  a  dish  garnished  with  the  cut  vegetables  ; 
strain  and  skim  the  gravy ;  add  one  tablespoonful  of  Harvey- 

7 


gS  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [276- 

sauce  and  a  glass  of  wine  ;  boil  it  to  the  quantity  required 
Pour  it  over  the  liver  and  serve  it  up  hot. 

Braised  Loin  of  Lamb. 

276.  Bone  a  loin  of  lamb  and  line  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan, 
just  capable  of  holding  it,  with  a  few  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon  ; 
add  to  it  one  bunch  of  green  onions,  five  or  six  young  carrots, 
a  bunch  of  savoury  herbs,  two  blades  of  pounded  mace  ;  cover 
the  meat  with  a  few  more  slices  of  bacon,  pour  in  a  pint  of 
stock,  and  sim-mer  very  gently  for  two  hours.  Take  it  up, 
dry  it,  strain,  and  reduce  the  gravy  to  a  glaze,  with  which 
glaze  the  meat,  and  serve  it  either  on  stewed  spinach  or  stewed 
cucumbers. 

Curried  Beef. 

277.  Cut  up  some  beef  into  pieces  about  one  inch  square, 
put  a  little  butter  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  onion  sliced, 
and  fry  them  of  a  light  brown  colour ;  add  one  dessertspoonful 
of  curry-powder,  quarter  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  gravy,  and  stir 
gently  over  a  brisk  fire  for  about  ten  minutes.  Should  this 
be  thought  too  dry,  a  spoonful  or  two  more  of  gravy  may  be 
added  ;  but  a  good  curry  should  not  be  very  thin.  Serve 
with  sippets  of  well-toasted  bread.  A  nice  way  of  doing  up 
cold  beef. 

To  Dress  Beef  kidneys. 

278.  Cut  a  beef-kidney  into  neat  slices,  put  them  into  warm 
water  to  soak  for  two  hours,  and  change  the  water  two  or 
three  times ;  then  put  them  on  a  clean  cloth  to  dry  the  -water 
from  them,  and  lay  them  in  a  frying-pan  with  some  clarified 
butter,  and  fry  them  of  a  nice  brown  ;  season  each  side  with 
pepper  and  salt,  put  them  into  a  stew-pan,  and  then  gently 
stew  for  an  hour.  Put  them  round  the  dish,  and  the  gravy  in 
the  middle.  Before  pouring  the  gravy  in  the  dish  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice  and  a  very  small  quantity  oi" 
saccharin. 


282]  dinner  dishes.  99 

Minced  Beef. 

279.  Put  into  a  stew-pan  a  little  butter  with  an  onion 
chopped  fine;  add  a  little  gravy  and  one  tablespoonfnl  of 
strong  ale ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  these  in- 
gredients over  the  fire  until  the  onion  is  a  rich  brown.  Cut, 
but  do  not  chop,  some  cold  beef  very  fine,  add  it  to  the  gravy, 
stir  till  quite  hot  and  serve ;  garnish  with  sippets  of  well- 
toarted  bread.  Be  careful  in  not  allowing  the  gravy  to  boil 
after  the  meat  is  added,  as  it  would  render  it  hard  and  tough. 

To  EoAST  Venison. 

280.  Take  great  care  the  meat  is  well-hung.  Take  the 
skin  from  the  top  part,  put  butter  and  salt  over  the  fat,  then 
make  a  paste  of  flour  and  water,  lay  it  on,  and  fasten  it  by 
four  or  five  sheets  of  paper,  sewn  together  and  skewered  on 
firmly.  Roast  it  gently  and  baste  it.  About  half  an  hour 
before  it  is  done  take  off"  the  paper  and  paste,  and  let  it 
colour  gradually  to  a  pale  brown,  but  be  most  careful  it  does 
not  burn.  Serve  with  a  good  gravy  round,  and  with  warmed 
red  currant  jelly.     A  little  wine  can  be  added  to  the  gravy. 

Hashed  Venison. 

281.  Take  a  pint  of  very  good  brown  gravy,  mix  with  it 
some  of  the  sauce  Tartare.  Cut  the  venison  in  small,  thin 
slices  of  equal  size,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  cover  with  the 
sauce,  and  let  it  stand  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes ;  put 
the  pan  on  the  fire,  let  it  get  gradually  warm  till  it  gets  hot 
quite  through.  It  must  on  no  account  boil,  but  it  must  be 
very  hot  when  sent  to  table. 

Norman  Hash. 

282.  Take  two  ounces  of  butter,  warm  it,  add  half  an  onion, 
a  sprig  of  herbs,  and  a  good  pint  of  stock  ;  boil  well  and  strain; 
slice  mutton  very  thin  and  free  from  skin  ;  put  the  meat  into 
the  sauce,  stew  very  gently  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  take 
out  the  herbs.      Add  half  a  glass  of  sherry  before  serving. 

7—2 


loo  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [283. 

Beef  can  also  be  used  for  this  hash,  but  will  require  rather 
longer  to  stew.     Cooked  meat  is  best  for  this. 

To  Stew  Mutton  Cutlets  (Plain). 

283.  These  can  be  taken  from  either  a  loin  or  neck  of 
mutton  ;  free  them  from  skin  and  fat.  Fry  slightly,  either  plain 
or  cover  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  Have  a  good  cold  gravy 
ready ;  put  in  your  cutlets,  cover  your  pan,  and  let  them  stew 
gently  for  an  hour.  Add  a  few  button  mushrooms  to  the  gravy 
before  serving. 

Calf's  Head  Stewed  with  Oysters. 

284.  Soak  half  a  small  calf's  head  (without  the  skin)  for 
one  hour  in.  cold  water  with  a  teacupful  of  vinegar  in  it.  Well 
wash  it  in  two  or  three  waters,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  two 
onions,  a  bay-leaf,  a  laurel-leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  sprig  of 
marjoram,  two  sage  leaves,  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  cloves, 
four  allspice,  six  black  peppercorns,  half  a  carrot,  and  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  cold  water.  Boil  up  quickly,  skim,  then  simmer 
gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  skimming  constantly.  Take 
out  the  head,  strain  the  liquor,  add  to  it  one  tablespoonful  of 
baked  flour  and  the  strained  liquor  of  three  dozen  oysters ; 
boil  up,  put  the  head  in  again  and  continue  to  simmer  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  longer  ;  add  three  dozen  oysters;  let  it  just 
simmer  again  and  serve.  It  must  not  boil  after  the  oysters 
are  added. 

Calf's  Head  EagoOt. 

285.  Wash  half  a  calf's  head  thoroughly,  and  boil  it  for  about 
three  hours  ;  take  it  up,  drain  it,  and  score  the  outside  skin  in 
diamonds.  Brush  it  over  with  well-beaten  egg,  and  strew 
over  that  a  few  finely-grated  breadcrumbs,  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  thyme,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne.  Put  it  in  a  hot 
oven,  or  place  it  before  the  fire  to  brown,  and  before  sending 


286.]  VEGETABLES.  roi 

it  to  table   squeeze  over  it  the  juice  of  a  large  lemon,  and  a 
little  oiled  butter  poured  over  it. 

Lasib  Chops  with  Cucumber  Sauce. 

286.  Dip  the  chops  in  beaten  egg  and  brown  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  them.  When  nicely  browned,  arrange  them  in  a 
circle  on  a  hot  dish  and  put  in  the  centre  a  sauce  prepared  as 
follows :  Peel  a  young  fresh  cucumber,  and  cut  it  into  dice ; 
strew  a  little  pepper  and  salt  over  these.  Melt  three  or  four 
ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  cucumber,  cover  it 
closely  and  place  it  on  a  moderate  fire,  shaking  the  pan 
frequently  to  prevent  sticking.  When  it  is  steamed  until  the 
pieces  of  cucumber  are  quite  tender  but  unbroken,  serve  tliem 
in  the  centre  of  the  dish.  It  will  take  about  ten  minutes  to 
fry  the  chops,  and  about  twenty  minutes  to  stew  the  cucumber. 


VEGETABLES. 

The  following  vegetables  are  suitable-  for  corpulent  people 
during  the  respective  months  given. 

January. 

Asparagus  (forced),  Jerusalem  artichokes,  broccoli,  Brussels 
sprouts,  cabbages,  cardoons,  celery,  chervil,  cresses,  endive, 
lettuces,  savoys,  Scotch  kale,  spitjach,  turnips,  herbs. 

February. 

Jerusalem  artichokes,  asparagus  (forced),  broccoli,  brussels 
sprouts,  beans  (French  or  kidney),  cabbages,  celery,  cardoons, 
cliervil,  cresses,  cucumbers  (forced),  endive,  lettuces,  savoys, 
spinach,  seakale,  turnips,  various  herbs. 

March. 

Artichokes  (French),  asparagus  (forced),  broccoli,  Brussels 
sprouts,  beans  (forced),  cabbages,  celery,  chervil,  cresses, 
cucumber   (forced),    endive,  kidney   beans,  lettuces,    radishes 


I02  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT. 

(early),  savo,ys,  seakale,  spinach,  turnips,  turnip-tops,  various 
herbs. 

April. 

Artichokes  (French),  asparagus,  beetroot,  beans  (French  and 
kidney,  forced),  broccoH,  celery,  chervil,  cucumbers  (forced), 
lettuce,  cabbages,  radishes,  young  onions,  small  salad,  seakale, 
spinach,  sprouts,  turnip-toj^s,  various  herbs. 

May. 

Artichokes  (French),  asparagus,  beans,  cabbages,  chervil, 
cucumbers,  cauliflower,  cresses,  lettuces,  peas,  radishes,  salad, 
seakale,  spinach,  turnip-tops,  and  various  herbs. 

June. 

Artichokes,  asparagus,  beans,  cabbages,  chervil,  cucumbers, 
cauliflower,  endive,  lettuces,  onions,  peas,  radishes,  small  salad, 
seakale,  sorrel,  spinach,  turnips,  various  herbs. 

July. 

Artichokes,  beans,  cabbages,  cauliflowers,  cucumbers,  cresses, 
endive,  lettuces,  mushrooms,  onions,  peas,  radishes,  red  cabbages, 
small  salads,  salsify,  seakale,  sorrel,  spinach,  sprouts,  turnips, 
vegetable  marrows,  various  herbs. 

August. 

Artichokes,  beans,  cabbages,  cauliflowers,  cucumbers,  cresses, 
shallots,  endive,  lettuces,  mushrooms,  onions,  peas,  radishes, 
red  cabbages,  seakale,  small  salads,  salsify,  sprouts,  turnij)s, 
vegetable  marrows,  and  various  herbs. 

September. 

Artichokes,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  beans,  cabbage,  sprouts, 
cauliflower, celery,  carrots,  endive,  shallots,  lettuces,  leeks,  mush- 
rooms, onions,  peas,  salads,  seakale,  sprouts,  tomatoes,  turnips, 
vegetable  marrows,  various  herbs. 


288.]  VEGETABLES.  103 

October. 

Artichokes,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  beets,  broccoli,  cabbages, 
cauliflower,  celery,  cucumbers,  endive,  shallots,  lettuces,  leeks, 
mushrooms,  onions,  sprouts,  tomatoes,  turnips,  vegetable 
marrows,  various  herbs. 

November. 

Jerusalem  artichokes,  broccoli,  cabbages,  carrots,  celery, 
cardoons,  endive,  leeks,  onions,  salad,  spinach,  sprouts,  Scotch 
kale,  various  herbs. 

December. 

Jerusalem  artichokes,  beetroot,  broccoli,  cabbages,  carrots, 
cardoons,  celery,  leeks^  onions,  spinach  (winter),  Scotch  kale, 
turnips. 


Cabbage,  Boiled. 

287.  Cut  off  the  stalk,  remove  the  faded  and  outer  leaves, 
and  halve,  or,  if  large,  quarter  the  cabbages.  Wash  them 
thoroughly  and  lay  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  water,  to  which 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  has  been  added,  to  draw  out  any 
insects  that  may  be  lodging  under  the  leaves.  Drain  them  in 
a  colander.  Have  ready  a  large  pan  of  boiling  water,  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a  small  piece  of  soda  in  it,  and  let 
the  cabbages  boil  quickly  till  tender,  leaving  the  saucepan  un- 
covered. Take  them  up  as  soon  as  they  are  done,  drain  them 
thoroughly  and  serve.  Time  to  boil  young  summer  cabbages, 
from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes ;  large  cabbages,  half  an  hour  or 
more. 

Savoy  Cabbage. 

288.  The  savoy  is  a  large,  close-hearted  cabbage,  seasonable 
in  winter.  It  may  be  dressed  according  to  the  instructions 
already  given  for  boiling  cabbages.  A  savoy  cabbage  will 
need  to  boil  thirty  minutes  or  more,  according  to  size. 


I04  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [2S9- 

Broccoli,  Boiled. 

289.  Trim  off  all  leaves  that  are  not  required  or  liked,  and 
place  the  broccoli  in  a  pan  of  salted  water  to  kill  any  insects, 
etc.,  that  may  have  taken  shelter  under  the  stalks.  Wash 
them  well  and  put  them  into  an  uncovered  saucepan  of  boil- 
ing water,  with  a  large  tablespoonful  of  salt  to  every  half 
gallon  of  water.  Keep  them  boiling  till  done,  which  will  be 
in  about  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  according  to  size.  Drain  them 
directly  they  are  done,  or  they  will  lose  colour  and  become 
sodden. 

Scotch  Kale. 

290.  Like  all  other  greens,  Scotch  kale  should  be  procured 
as  fresh  as  possible.  Cut  away  the  outer  and  decayed  leaves 
and  the  stalks,  wash  the  kale  with  scrupulous  care,  and  drain 
it.  Put  it  into  boiling  water  slightly  salted,  and  let  it  boil 
quickly  until  done  enough.  Take  it  up,  drain  it  thoroughly, 
and  serve  very  hot.  Whilst  the  kale  is  boiling,  the  saucepan 
should  be  left  uncovered.     Time  to  boil,  twenty  minutes. 

Seakale,  Boiled. 

291.  When  fresh  and  delicately  cooked,  seakale  resembles, 
and  will  serve  as  a  substitute  for,  asparagus.  Carefully  wash 
and  brush  the  seakale  to  remove  the  sand  and  grit,  cut  out 
the  black  part  of  the  roots  and  tie  the  shoots  up  in  small 
bundles,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt;  let  it  boil  for  about  twenty  minutes,  or 
until  tender. 

Spinach,  Boiled. 

292.  Take  two  pailfuls  of  spinach,  young  and  freshly- 
gathered,  pick  away  the  stalks,  wash  the  leaves  in  several 
waters,  lift  them  out  with  the  hands  that  the  sand  or  grit  may 
remain  at  the  bottom,  and  drain  them  on  a  sieve.  Put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  good  sprinkling  of  salt  and  the  water 


295]  VEGETABLES.  105 

which  clings  to  the  leaves,  and  let  them  boil  until  tender.  ,  Take 
the  spinach  up,  drain  it,  and  press  it  well ;  chop  it  ^mall,  and 
put  it  into  a  clean  saucepan  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt  and 
a  slice  of  fresh  butter ;  stir  it  well  for  five  minutes.  Serve 
on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  with  fried  sippets.  Time  to  boil 
the  spinach,  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 

Lettuce,  Stewed. 

293.  Take  four  good-sized  lettuces,  trim  away  the  outer 
leaves  and  the  bitter  stalks,  wash  the  lettuces  carefully,  and 
boil  them  in  plenty  of  salted  water  until  they  are  tender. 
Lift  them  into  a  colander,  and  squeeze  the  water  from  them ; 
chop  them  slightly,  and  put  them  into  a  clean  saucepan  with  a 
little  pepper  and  salt  and  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Dredge  a 
little  flour  on  them,  pour  over  them,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
good  gravy,  and  simmer  gently  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour, 
stirring  all  the  time.  Squeeze  a  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar  or 
lemon-juice  upon  them,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Mushrooms,  Grilled. 

294.  Cut  the  stalks,  peel,  and  score  lightly  the  underside  of 
large  mushroom  flaps,  which  should  be  firm  and  fresh-gathered  ; 
season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  steep  them  in  a 
marinade  of  oil  or  melted  butter.  If  quite  sound  they  may 
be  laid  on  a  gridiron  over  a  slow  even  fire,  and  grilled  on 
both  sides,  but  they  are  best  done  in  the  oven  if  at  all  bruised. 
Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  with  a  piece  of  butter  on  each  mushroom 
and  a  squeeze  of  lemon-juice.  Time,  about  twelve  minutes  to 
grill;  five  minutes  to  steep  in  marinade. 

Celery,  Stewed. 

295.  Wash  four  heads  of  celery  very  clean,  trim  them  neatly, 
cutting  off"  the  leaves  and  tops ;  cut  them  into  three-inch 
lengths  and  tie  them  in  small  bundles,  and  parboil  them  in 
sufficient  salt  and  water  to  cover  them.  Drain,  and  stew 
them  until  tender  in  some  stock.    Brown  two  ounces  of  butter 


io6  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [296- 

with  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  in  a  saucepan,  dilute  it  with  the 
stock  in  which  the  celery  was  boiled,  lay  the  celery  in  it,  let 
it  boil  for  ten  minutes  more,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 
Time,  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Cardoons,  Boiled. 

296.  Choose  a  few  heads  of  sound  white  cardoons.  Cut 
them  into  pieces  about  six  inches  long,  remove  the  prickles, 
and  blanch  them  in  boiling  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
Scrape  off  the  skin,  and  tie  them  in  bundles.  Cover  them 
with  nicely-flavoured  stock,  and  boil  till  tender. 

Turnips,  Boiled. 

297.  Turnips  should  only  be  served  whole  when  they  are 
very  young.  When  they  have  reached  any  size  they  should 
be  mashed.  Pare  the  turnips  and  wash  them;  if  very  young 
a  little  of  the  green  top  may  be  left  on ;  if  very  large  they 
should  be  divided  into  halves,  or  even  quarters.  Throw  them 
into  slightly  salted  water,  and  let  them  boil  gently  till  tender. 
Drain  and  serve  them.  Time  to  boil  old  turnips,  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half;  young  turnips, 
fifteen  to  twenty-five  minutes. 

Artichokes,  Boiled. 

298.  Gather  the  artichokes  two  or  three  days  before  they 
are  required  for  use.  Cut  off  the  stems,  pull  out  the  strings, 
and  wash  them  in  two  or  three  waters,  that  no  insects  may  be 
in  them.  Have  a  large  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  salt  and  a  piece  of  soda  the  size  of  a 
sixpence  to  every  gallon  of  water,  put  the  artichokes  in  with 
the  tops  downwards,  and  let  them  boil  quickly  until  tender. 
About  half  an  hour  or  three  -  quarters  will  boil  them,  but 
that  can  be  ascertained  by  pulling  out  one  of  the  leaves  (if  it 
comes  out  easily  they  are  done),  or  by  trying  them  with 
a  fork.  Take  them  out  and  lay  them  upside  down  to  drain. 
Serve  them  on  a  napkin. 


302.]  vegetables.  107 

Asparagus,  Boiled. 

299.  Scrape  very  clean  all  the  white  part  of  the  stalks 
from  the  asparagus,  and  throw  them  into  cold  spring  water, 
tie  them  up  in  bundles,  cut  the  root  ends  even,  and  put 
them  in  a  piece  of  muslin  to  preserve  the  tops.  Have  a  wide 
stewpan  of  spring  water,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  to  half 
a  gallon  of  water,  and  when  it  boils  lay  in  the  asparagus  and 
boil  it  quickly  for  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  it  is  tender.  Lay 
them  in  the  dish  with  the  white  ends  outwards  and  the  points 
meeting  in  the  centre. 

To  Boil  French  Beans. 

300.  Take  as  many  French  beans  as  you  may  require,  cut 
off  the  tops  and  bottoms,  and  remove  the  strings  from  each 
side  ;  then  divide  each  bean  into  three  or  four  pieces,  cutting 
them  lengthways,  and  as  they  are  cut  put  them  into  cold 
water  with  a  little  salt.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  drain  the  beans  from  the  cold  water,  and  put  them  in. 
Boil  them  quickly  with  the  saucepan  uncovered,  and  as  soon 
as  they  are  done  drain  them  in  a  colander.  Dish,  and  serve 
them  with  a  small  piece  of  butter  stirred  into  them. 

Beans,  Stewed, 

301.  Have  ready  a  good  rich  brown  gravy.  Cut  up  some 
small  onions,  chives,  and  parsley  ;  throw  them  into  the  gravy, 
and  simmer  for  ten  minutes  before  the  beans  are  put  in. 
Sprinkle  a  quart  of  beans  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one 
of  pepper,  and  a  small  quantity  of  saccharin ;  mix  together, 
and  put  them  into  the  gravy.  Stir  the  beans  gently  over  a 
slow  fire  till  the  gravy  is  absorbed  by  them.  In  ten  minutes 
serve  them  up. 

Cauliflowers,  Boiled. 

302.  Make  choice  of  some  caulitlowers  that  are  close  and 
white,  pick  off  all  the  decayed  leaves,  and  cut  the  stalk  off 


loS  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [303- 

flat  at  the  bottom ;  then  put  them  with  the  heads  downwards 
in  strong  salt  and  water  for  an  hour,  to  draw  out  all  the 
insects.  Drain  them  in  a  colander,  and  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  plenty  of  fast  boiling  water ;  keep  the  pan  un- 
covered, and  boil  them  quickly  until  tender,  which  will  be 
from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes,  or  longer  if  they  are  very 
large.  Skim  the  water  clean,  and  when  done  take  them  up 
with  a  slice  and  serve. 

Squash,  or  Vegetable  Marrow,  Boiled. 

303.  Peel  the  marrows,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water  and  salt  (one  tablespoonful  of  salt  to  half  a 
gallon  of  water).  When  tender,  take  them  out;  cut  them 
into  quarters  if  large ;  if  not,  halve  them.  Serve  them  in  a 
vegetable  dish. 

Squash,  or  Vegetable  Marrow,  in  Gravy. 

304.  Boil  a  large  marrow  in  the  usual  way.  When  three- 
parts  cooked,  take  it  up,  cut  it  into  squares,  place  these  in  a 
saucepan,  and  pour  over  them  as  much  thick  brown  gravy  as 
will  cover  them.  Let  them  heat  gently.  Serve  in  a  vegetable 
dish  with  the  gravy  poured  round  them. 

Green  Peas,  Boiled. 

305.  Shell  half  a  peck  of  green  peas,  and  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
sprig  or  two  of  mint ;  let  them  boil  about  half  an  hour  with 
the  pan  closely  covered.  When  tender,  drain  them  through  a 
colander,  and  put  them  in  a  dish  with  a  bit  of  butter  stirred 
into  them.     Serve  them  up  very  hot. 

Leeks,  Boiled. 

306.  Leeks  are  generally  used  in  soups,  etc.  If  served 
alone,  take  them  when  very  young,  trim  off  the  root,  the 
outer  leaves  and  the  green  ends,  and  cut  the  stalks  into  six- 
inch  lengths.     Tie  them  in  bundles,  put  them  into  boiling 


311.]  VEGETABLES.  109 

water,  with  a  dessertspoonful  of  salt  and  a  tablespoonfiil  of 
vinegar,  and  let  them  boil  until  quite  tender.  Drain  them 
and  serve. 

Brussels  Sprouts. 

307.  Pick,  trim,  and  wash  a  number  of  sprouts  ;  put  them 
into  plenty  of  fast  boiling  water.  The  sudden  immersion  of 
the  vegetables  will  check  the  boiling  for  some  little  time,  but 
they  must  be  brought  to  a  boil  as  quickly  as  possible,  that 
they  may  not  lose  their  green  colour ;  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
salt,  keep  the  saucepan  uncoveretl,  and  boil  very  fast  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Lose  no  time  in  draining  them  when  sufficiently 
done. 

Tomatoes. 

308.  Cut  in  slices,  fry  in  butter  just  brown ;  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  white  vinegar,  chili,  a  few  drops  of  tarragon, 
one  saltspoon  of  salt,  and  a  little  saccharin.  Simmer  twenty 
minutes. 

Broiled  Mushrooms. 

309.  Skin  the  mushrooms  and  cut  off  the  stalks  ;  put  them 
in  a  Dutch  oven  in  front  of  the  fire,  with  a  little  butter, 
pepper,  and  salt.     Serve  on  toast  thinly  buttered. 

Mashed  Turnips. 

310.  Take  six  moderate-sized  turnips,  pare  them  neatly,  and 
put  them  into  cold  water  to  blanch  for  half  an  hour  ;  then 
put  them  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  about  half  an  hour ; 
drain  and  press  out  all  the  water,  and  rub  the  turnips  through 
a  wire  sieve  ;  put  them  into  a  stewpau  with  half  a  gill  of 
thick  cream  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt ;  stir  till  boiling  hot, 
then  serve. 

Boiled  Onions. 

311.  Peel  the  onions,  and  boil  them  in  salt  and  water  for 
ten  minutes ;  throw  them  into  cold  water  for  half  an  hour, 


no  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  1312- 

then  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  and  well  cover  them  with  cold 
water,  and  let  them  boil  gently  for  an  hour.  Drain,  and 
serve  with  or  without  dissolved  butter  over  thenx 

Portugal  Onions,  Stewed. 

312.  Peel  the  onions,  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan;  for 
each  onion  knead  together  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a 
little  saccharin  ;  put  it  on  the  onions,  and  let  them  slowly- 
become  slightly  browned.  Then  pour  over  each  a  teaspoonful 
of  tomato  sauce  and  a  tablespoonful  of  gravy  or  stock : 
simmer  gently  for  three  hours,  basting  the  onions  frequently 
with  the  gravy.     Serve  very  hot. 

Portugal  Onions,  Eoasted. 

313.  Peel  the  onions  and  place  them  in  a  Dutch  oven  before 
a  good  fire,  baste  them  frequently  with  dissolved  butter  (an 
ounce  for  each),  and  roast  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Serve  with 
or  without  their  own  sauce. 

Portugal  Onions,  Curried. 

314.  Peel  and  wash  the  onions,  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  plenty  of  water  and  a  little  salt.  Boil  (uncovered)  till 
tender ;  then  press  out  the  water  and  chop ;  put  them  into  an 
enamelled  saucepan  with  a  little  butter  and  a  little  curry 
powder.     Simmer  for  five  minutes  and  serve. 

Eagout  of  Celery. 

315.  Wash  well,  and  boil  hali  an  hour.  Take  out  the 
celery,  put  it  into  cold  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then 
strain  well.  Stew  in  good  gravy  with  a  little  mushroom 
ketchup,  salt,  and  pepper.     Serve  hot. 

A  Mixed  Vegetable. 

316.  Peel  an  onion,  slice  and  fry  in  butter,  then  stew  in  a 
little  broth  till  tender ;  have  some  turnips,  carrots,  and 
celery  boiled,  and  cut  in  neat  pieces.  Put  them  to  the  onion, 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  mustard  (half  a  teaspoonful  of 


320.]  VEGETA  BLES.  1 1 1 

French  mustard  is  the  best  for  this.     Simmer  till  hot,  and 
serve. 

Fried  Cabbage. 

317.  Boil  the  cabbage  in  two  waters  and  skim  well,  drain 
very  well,  chop  or  slice  it,  fry  in  batter  or  good  dripping,  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  few  slices  of 
fried  beef  or  ham  over  it. 

Spinach  with  Cream. 

318.  Boil  and  drain  two  pounds  of  spinach  in  the  usual 
way.  Press  it  between  two  plates  to  free  it  thoroughly  from 
moisture,  and  heat  it  in  a  clean  saucepan  with  a  little  pepper 
and  salt  and  a  small  lump  of  butter.  When  it  is  dry,  add 
very  gradually  two  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  cream,  and 
simmer  it  gently  for  five  minutes.     Serve  very  hot. 

Spinach  with  Gravy. 

319.  Prepare  the  spinach  in  the  usual  way  as  in  the  fore- 
going recipe.  Dissolve  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  in  a  sauce- 
pan, put  in  the  spinach  and  stir  it  till  the  butter  has  dried 
away.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  very  little  saccharin  and 
as  much  grated  nutmeg  as  will  cover  a  sixpence.  Stir  it 
again,  and  moisten  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  highly-seasoned 
veal  broth  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chilli  vinegar.  Stir  it  over 
the  fire  till  the  liquid  is  absorbed,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Cabbage,  Creasied. 

320.  Thoroughly  cleanse  two  young  cabbages  and  boil  them 
until  quite  soft.  Take  them  out,  drain  and  press  them 
between  two  hot  plates  until  they  are  dry,  when  they  may  be 
slightly  chopped.  Melt  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  in 
a  stewpan,  add  pepper  and  salt,  then  put  in  the  cabbage  and 
turn  it  about  for  two  or  three  minutes.  When  it  is  thoroughly 
heated,  mix  with  it  very  gradually  a  cupful  of  cream. 


113  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [321- 

Artichokes,  Fried. 

321.  Pare  some  artichokes,  and  boil  them  in  salt  and  water 
for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Drain  and  cut  them  into 
slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  dip  them  into  the 
white  of  an  egg  well  beaten,  and  afterwards  strew  finely-grated 
bread  on  them.  Fry  in  boiling  oil  or  lard  till  they  are  nicely 
browned,  and  serve  piled  high  on  a  dish. 

Artichokes  Stewed  in  Gravy. 

322.  Strip  off  the  leaves  from  the  artichokes,  remove  the 
chokes,  and  soak  them  in  lukewarm  water  for  three  hours, 
changing  the  water  three  or  four  times.  Place  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  enough  gravy  to  cover  them,  a  tablespoonful  of 
mushroom  ketchup,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a  walnut.  Let  them  stew  gently  until  tender,  then 
serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over  them,  and  as  hot  as  possible. 

Artichokes,  Mashed. 

323.  Wash  and  pare  some  artichokes  ;  boil  them  in  salt  and 
water  until  quite  tender,  then  drain  and  press  the  water 
thoroughly  from  them.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan,  and  beat 
to  a  pulp,  adding  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  cream.  Serve  very 
hot. 

Stewed  Red  Cabbage. 

324.  Cut  a  cabbage  in  shreds,  wash  it  well  in  salt  and 
water,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  without  draining  it  much,  add 
pepper  and  a  little  broth,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  a 
small  lump  of  butter.     Stew  till  tender. 

Stewed  Cucumbers. 

325.  Peel  and  core  the  cucumbers,  cut  them  into  neat 
pieces,  fry  in  a  little  butter,  put  the  fried  pieces  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  little  good  gravy,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
vinegar.     Stew  gently  till  tender. 


330.]  VEGETABLES.  113 

Haricots  Verts. 

326.  Cut  French  beans  very  thin  (they  should  be  young  and 
tender),  boil  and  drain  well ;  add  salt,  pepper,  a  little  good 
gravy,  a  bit  of  butter ;  shake  well  over  the  fire.  Take  them 
off'  the  fire,  and  stir-in  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a  little 
lemon-juice.     Serve  very  hot. 

Curried  Tomatoes. 

327.  Cut  the  tomatoes  in  slices ;  either  bake  or  fry  them 
lightly.  Grate  an  apple,  chop  a  bit  of  onion  small,  fry  in  hot 
butter  till  quite  tender,  add  two  large  teaspoonfuls  of  curry 
powder,  put  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  thick  gravy,  simmer  a 
few  minutes,  add  the  tomatoes  with  a  very  little  lemon-juice ; 
let  it  be  rather  thick.     Serve  hot. 

Sea  KALE,  Stewed. 

328.  Wash  the  seakale,  and  tie  it  in  bundles.  Boil  it  in 
salted  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  drain  it,  and  put  it 
into  a  saucepan  with  as  much  brown  gravy  as  will  cover  it ; 
stew  gently  till  tender.  Lay  it  in  a  hot  dish,  stir  a  little 
lemon- juice  into  the  sauce  and  pour  it  over. 

Cauliflower  with  Sauce. 

329.  Boil  two  large  white  cauliflowers  in  a  little  salt  and 
water  until  tender,  then  cut  off  the  stalks  and  press  them  head 
downwards  into  a  hot  basin.  Turn  them  into  a  tureen,  and 
pour  round  them  a  little  tomato  or  piquante  sauce. 

Squashes,  or  Vegetable  Marrows,  Fried. 

330.  Boil  the  marrows  in  the  ordinary  way  till  they  are 
tender  but  quite  firm.  Let  them  get  cold,  and  cut  them  into 
slices.  Brush  them  over  with  egg,  dip  in  finely-grated  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  till  they  are  lightly  browned. 

8 


114  FOODS  FOR   THE  FAT.  [334- 

Squashes,  or  Vegetable  Marrows,  Mashed. 

331.  Boil  two  good-sized  vegetable  marrows  in  a  little  salt 
and  water  till  tender.  Take  them  up,  drain  them,  turn  them 
into  a  bowl  and  mash  them  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Heat  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  melted  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Marrows  dressed  thus 
are  excellent,  served  piled  high  in  the  centre  of  a  dish  of 
cutlets. 

Tomatoes,  Baked. 

332.  Slice  six  or  eight  ripe  tomatoes,  season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  sprinkle  breadcrumbs  lightly  over  them  \  divide 
about  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  little  pieces,  and  place 
these  here  and  there  upon  them.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Serve  on  a  hot  dish  as  an  accompaniment  to  roast  meat  of  all 
kinds. 

Stewed  Mushrooms. 

333.  Take  off  the  skin  and  stems,  wash  the  mushrooms 
quickly,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  (an  earthen  one  is  best)  with 
two  ounces  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  water,  a  teaspoon ful 
of  vinegar,  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  throw  in  half  a  gill  of  cream,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Brussels  Sprouts,  SautiS. 

334.  Wash  and  drain  one  pound  of  sprouts  ;  put  them  into 
boiling  salt  and  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  When  done,  dry 
them  on  a  clean  cloth  ;  dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a 
pan,  and  shake  the  sprouts  in  it  over  the  fire  for  a  minute  or 
two;  season  them  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  and 
serve  very  hot.  Sprouts  about  the  size  of  a  walnut  have  the 
most  delicate  flavour. 


SACCHARIN,  115 


SACCHARIN. 


The  invention  of  the  above  substitute  for  sugar  is  a  boon  to 
those  who  suffer  from  corpulency  or  skin  disease,  as  the  use 
of  sugar  in  both  cases  is  injurious,  and  this  article,  for  which 
we  are  indebted  to  Dr.  Fahlberg,  is  a  perfect  substitute. 
Experiments  have  been  made  of  the  most  exhaAistive  nature, 
that  prove  it  to  be  perfectly  harmless,  and  Dr.  Pavy  and 
others  give  the  following  as  the  result  of  their  investigation  : 

(1)  That  saccharin  is  quite  innocuous  when  taken  in 
ordinary  dietary. 

(2)  Saccharin  does  not  interfere  with  or  impede  the  diges- 
tive processes  when  taken  in  any  ordinary  quantity.  The 
Lancet  says  its  continued  use  is  quite  harmless. 

This  being  so,  sugar — one  of  the  great  dietetic  articles  so 
constantly  used  in  food,  and  the  greatest  of  all  fattening  sub- 
stances— may  be  completely  cast  aside,  as  saccharin  is  a 
perfect  substitute,  and  quite  as  convenient  to  use.  It  is  sold 
in  a  soluble  powder  and  in  the  form  of  a  tabloid,  containing 
half  a  grain,  this  being  equal  to  about  half  an  ounce  of  sugar. 

For  stewed  fruits,  jellies,  and  all  culinary  purposes  it  will 
be  found  that  two  tabloids  are  equal  to  quite  one  ounce  of 
sugar.  They  are  soluble  in  hot  or  cold  water.  One  tabloid,  or 
half  a  grain  of  the  powder,  is  sufficient  for  a  large  cup  of  tea  or 
coffee.  The  tabloids  are  sold  at  about  25  cents  a  hundred.  The 
best-known  English  makers  are  Burroughs,  Wellcorfie  and  Co., 
Snow  Hill  Buildings,  London,  and  they  may  be  had  of  all  lead- 
ing druggists,  grocers,  and  chemists  in  the  larger  American  cides. 

The  recipes  for  jellies,  beverages,  etc.,  given  in  this  book 
have  been  tried  by  the  author,  and  he  can  speak  of  them  as  in 
every  way  equal  to  those  containing  sugar.  If  it  is  desirable 
to  make  a^iVm  jelly,  a  little  more  isinglass  or  gelatine  should 
be  iised  than  is  given  in  the  recipe.  Sugar,  as  is  well  known, 
is  the  most  fattening  article  in  the  daily  dietary,  and  with 
some  people  the  most  bilious,  so  that  it  is  equally  a  boon  to 
those  who  are  troubled  with  an  inactive  liver.     This  article 

8—2 


Ii6  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [335- 

has  a  great  future  before  it,  and  should  entirely  take  the  place 
of  sugar  in  the  dietary  of  those  disposed  to  corpulency.  By  its 
aid  stewed  fruits,  tea,  coflfee,  and  other  daily  requisites  are 
made  palatable. 


FEUITS,     JELLIES,     AND     CREAMS,     SWEETENED 
WITH    SACCHARIN. 

Lemon  Cream. 

335.  Pare  into  a  piut  of  water  the  peel  of  three  large 
lemons  ;  let  it  stand  four  or  five  hours  ;  then  take  them  out, 
and  put  to  the  water  the  juice  of  four  lemons  and  four  grains 
of  saccharin,  or  eight  tabloids  dissolved  in  a  little  boiling 
water.  Beat  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  and  mix  it  altogether ; 
strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve,  set  it  over  a  slow  fire,  stir  it 
one  way  until  as  thick  as  good  cream,  then  take  it  off  the  fire, 
and  stir  it  until  cold,  and  put  it  into  a  glass  dish.  Orange 
cream  Uiay  be  made  in  the  same  way,  adding  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs. 

Lemon  Cream  without  Cream. 

336.  Put  a  quart  of  new  milk  into  a  stewpan  with  the  p^el 
of  three  small  lemons  cut  thin,  four  grains  of  sacchaiin  or 
eight  tabloids,  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  bitter  almouds, 
blanched  and  pounded  to  a  paste,  and  about  two  ounces  of 
gelatine  or  isinglass.  Boil  the  whole  over  a  moderate  fire  for 
ei^ht  or  nine  minutes,  until  the  gelatine  or  isinglass  is 
thoroughly  dissolved ;  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve 
into  a  jug  with  a  lip  to  it,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  seven  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  pour  the  mixture  from  one  jug  to  another 
until  barey  cold  ;  then  add  the  stndiied  juice  of  three  small 
lemons,  stir  it  quickly  together,  and  pour  it  into  an  oik  J 
mould. 


339-]  FRUITS,  JELLIES,  AND  CREAMS.  117 

Easpberry  Cream  without  Cream. 

337.  Mix  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raspberries  three 
grains  of  saccharin  or  six  tabloids,  and  the  whites  of  four  eggs. 
All  to  be  beaten  together  for  one  hour,  and  then  put  in  lumps 
in  a  glass  dish. 

Calf's-foot  Jelly. 

338.  Cut  two  calves'  feet  in  small  pieces  after  they  have 
been  well  cleaned  and  the  hair  taken  off.  Stew  them  very 
gently  in  two  quarts  of  water  till  it  is  reduced  to  one  quart. 
When  cold,  take  off  the  fat  and  remove  the  jelly  from  the  sedi- 
ment. Put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  six  grains  of  saccharin  or 
twelve  tabloids,  a  pint  of  white  wine,  a  wineglass  of  brandy  in 
it,  the  peel  of  four  lemons  finely  chopped,  the  whites  of  four 
eggs  well-beaten,  and  their  shells  broken.  Put  the  saucepan 
on  the  fire,  but  do  not  stir  the  jelly  after  it  begins  to  warm. 
Let  it  boil  a  quarter  of  an  hour  after  it  rises  to  a  head  ;  then 
cover  it  close,  and  let  it  stand  about  half  an  hour;  after  which, 
pour  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  first  dipping  the  bag  in  hot  water 
to  prevent  waste,  and  squeezing  it  quite  dry.  Pour  the  jelly 
through  and  through  until  clear,  then  put  it  into  a  mould. 


Gooseberry  Fool. 

339.  Put  two  quarts  of  gooseberries  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
quart  of  water;  when  they  begin  to  turn  yellow  and  swell, 
drain  the  water  from  them  and  press  them  with  the  back  of  a 
spoon  through  a  colander;  sweeten  them  with  saccharin  to  your 
taste,  and  set  them  to  cool.  Put  two  quarts  of  milk  over  the 
fire,  beaten  up  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  and  then  gradually  into  the  cold 
gooseberries  ;  let  it  stand  until  cold,  and  serve  it.  The  eggs 
may  be  left  out,  and  milk  only  may  be  used.  Half  this 
quantity  n.akes  a  good  dishful. 


Ii8  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [340- 

Stewed  Prunes. 

340.  Take  one  pound  of  prunes,  wash  them  in  cold  water,  then 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  one  quart  of  water,  two  grains  of 
saccharin  and  two  or  three  drops  of  cochineal  ;  then  gradually 
bring  to  the  boil,  and  stew  gently  for  an  hour.  Serve  when  cold. 

Lemon  Jelly. 

341.  Soak  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  gelatine  in  half  a  pint 
of  water  for  half  an  hour.  Put  into  a  saucej^an  one  pint  and 
a  half  of  water  with  the  peel  of  one  lemon  and  also  the  juice. 
Let  it  boil  for  a  few  minutes  and  then  pour  it  on  the  gelatine ; 
sweeten  with  three  grains  of  saccharin,  return  it  all  to  the 
saucepan,  and  stir  quickly  into  it  the  white  and  shell  of  one 
egg  well-beatc-n.  Let  it  gradually  come  to  the  boil,  and  boil  for 
a  minute ;  then  stand  it  away  from  the  fire  for  two  minutes, 
skim  well  and  strain  through  a  jeliy-bag  until  clear,  and  then 
add  one  wineglass  of  brandy.  When  nearly  cold,  pour  into  a 
jelly-mould  to  set. 

Claret  Jelly. 

342.  Take  one  bottle  of  claret,  the  juice  and  rind  of  a 
lemon,  one  small  pot  of  red-currant  jelly,  six  grains  of  saccharin, 
one  and  a  half  ounces  of  isinglass,  and  one  wineglass  of  brandy. 
Boil  all  together  for  five  minutes  ;  strain  into  a  mould  and  let 
it  get  cold ;  serve  with  cream  sauce — recipe  for  which  as 
follows  :  Half  a  pint  of  cream,  sweetened,  and  flavoured  with 
vanilla  and  slightly  whisked,  poured  round  the  jelly. 

Strawberry  Jelly. 

343.  Take  a  quart  of  fine  ripe  strawberries,  and  pour 
over  them  a  pint  of  water  that  has  boiled  for  twenty 
minutes,  with  eight  grains  of  saccharin.  The  next  day  drain 
off  the  syrup  from  the  strawberries  without  bruising  them, 
and,  to  increase  the  fruity  flavour,  add  a  little  lemon-juice. 
Claiify  two  ounces  and  a  half  of  isinglass  in  a  pint  of   water, 


347.]  FRUITS,  JELLIES,  AND  CREAMS.  iic 

and  let  it  stand  till  nearly  cold  ;  then  mix  it  with  the  fruit-juice 

and  pour  into  moulds. 

Orange  Jelly. 

344.  To  the  juice  of  eight  fine  sweet  oranges  anfl  four 
Seville,  well  strained,  add  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  isinglass 
dissolved  in  boiling  water ;  sweeten  with  four  grains  of  saccha- 
rin, and  stir  it  gently  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil. 
Pour  the  jelly  into  moulds  when  nearly  cold,  the  moulds 
having  been  previously  filled  with  cold  water. 

Currant  and  Easpberry  Jelly. 

345.  Bruise  in  a  jar  two  pounds  of  red  and  one  pound  of 
white  currants  with  a  pint  of  red  raspberries ;  place  the  jar  in 
boiling  water  to  extract  the  juice.  Boil  three-quarters  of  a 
pint  of  water,  two  ounces  of  isinglass,  and  twelve  grains  of 
saccharin.  Allow  both  the  fruit-juice,  when  strained,  and  the 
sweetened  isinglass  to  cool ;  then  mix  equal  quantities,  pour 
into  shapes,  and  place  the  jelly  in  ice. 

Bum  Jelly. 

346.  Dissolve  twelve  grains  of  saccharin  in  a  pint  of  boiling 
water ;  mix  with  this  two  ounces  of  clarified  isinglass  or  gela- 
tine, and  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  wineglassful  of  fine 
old  Jamaica  rum.  Pour  the  jelly  into  a  damp  mould,  set  it 
in  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  till  it  is  stiS",  then  turn  it  out  and 
serve. 

Stewed  Apples. 

347.  Take  three  or  four  very  good  American  apples ;  peel 
and  core  carefully ;  cut  into  slices.  Put  the  slices  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  tablespoonful  of  water ;  boil  till  quite  tender,  then 
beat  them  quite  smooth  with  a  fork,  adding  saccharin  and 
lemon-juice  to  taste.  Not  the  least  lump  or  bit  of  core  should 
be  left. 


i20  foods  for  the  fat.  [348. 

Eed  Rhubarb. 

348.  Cut  one  pound  of  rhubarb  one  inch  long ;  put  into  a 
pan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water  and  three  grains  of 
saccharin ;  stir  on  a  slow  fire  till  tender. 

Comp6te  of  Cherries. 

349.  Choose  large,  ripe,  light-coloured  cherries,  wipe  them, 
and  leave  on  them  about  an  inch  of  stalk,  making  all  uniform. 
Put  eight  grains  of  saccharin  into  a  saucepan  with  a  breakfast- 
cupful  of  water,  and  let  it  boil  for  a  minute  ;  then  put  into  it 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  the  cherries,  and  simmer  them  for  three 
minutes.  Dish  them  when  cold  with  the  stalks  uppermost. 
A  tablespoonful  of  brandy  may  be  added  if  liked. 

Snow  Pudding. 

350.  Put  into  half  a  pint  of  cold  water  half  a  packet  of 
gelatine.  Let  it  stand  one  hour ;  then  add  one  pint  of  boiling 
water,  eight  grains  of  saccharin,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons. 
Stir  and  strain,  and  let  it  stand  all  night ;  beat  very  stiff  the 
whites  of  two  eggs,  and  beat  well  into  the  mixture ;  pour  into 
a  mould. 

Plain  S\^^et  Omelette. 

351.  Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  the 
yolks,  beat  again  till  quite  smooth ;  put  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
cream,  a  piece  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  a  little 
saccharin ;  put  half  an  ounce  of  butter  into  the  omelette-pan, 
let  it  just  boil,  and  pour  in  the  omelette ;  shake  it  till  it  is  even 
all  over  the  pan.  When  nicely  browned  on  the  under  side, 
i:)ass  a  red-hot  salamander  over  the  top  just  to  set  it,  double 
up,  and  slide  on  to  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  at  once.  This  ome- 
lette may  be  made  quite  plain,  with  only  a  little  salt  if  not 
liked  sweet.     It  is  very  light  if  properly  made. 

Custard. 

352.  Have  the  yolk  of  one  fresh  egg,  T)pat  it  a  little  and 
pour  over  it,  mixing  the  two  well,  a  teacupful  of  thin  cream; 


355-]  FRUITS,  JELLIES,  AND  CREAMS.  121 

add  a  little  saccharin  and  essence  of  vanilla  to  taste  ;  stir  over 
the  fire  in  a  small  saucepan  till  it  thickens,  but  keep  it  just  off 
the  boil.  A  teaspoonful  of  brandy  or  rum  improves  it,  but  it 
must  not  be  added  when  very  hot.  This  is  nice  to  eat  with 
stewed  fruit. 

Nourishing  Cream. 

353.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs ;  add  a  little  saccharin,  the 
rind,  lightly  grated,  and  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon  or 
orange.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  adding  to  them, 
while  beating,  a  little  saccharin.  Put  the  jar  containing  the 
yolks  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water ;  cook  gently,  stirring  all  the 
time  ;  when  it  begins  to  thicken,  stir  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
until  well  mixed  ;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  let  it  cool. 
Serve  in  custard-glasses. 

Rhubarb  Mould. 

354.  One  quart  of  red  rhubarb  cut  in  pieces,  put  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  lid  ;  let  it  boil  till  it  is  a  pulp.  Soak  half  an 
ounce  of  gelatine  in  cold  water,  pour  on  to  it  just  enough  boil- 
ing water  to  dissolve  it,  add  it  to  the  rhubarb  with  sixteen 
grains  of  saccharin  ;  let  it  boil  fifteen  minutes ;  add  a  few 
drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  butter  a  mould,  and  pour  in  the 
rhubarb.  Next  day  dip  the  mould  in  hot  water,  and  turn  the 
rhubarb  out  on  a  glass  dish. 

Apple  Snow. 

355.  Reduce  half-a-dozen  apples  to  a  pulp,  press  them 
through  a  sieve,  sweeten  with  saccharin,  and  flavour  them. 
Take  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  whisk  them  for  some  minutes 
with  a  little  saccharin.  Beat  the  pulp  to  a  froth,  then  mix 
the  two  together,  and  whisk  them  until  they  look  like  stiff 
snow.  Pile  high  in  rough  pieces  on  a  glass  dish,  stick  a  sprig 
of  myrtle  in  the  middle,  and  garnish  with  small  pieces  of 
bright-coloured  jelly. 


122  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [355. 

Apple  Shape. 

356.  Me't  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of  isinglass  in  a  liltle 
water.  Take  half  a  pint  of  nicely  flavoured  apple-pulp,  mix  it 
well  with  half  a  pint  of  cream,  then  add  the  dissolved  isinglass, 
and  sweeten  with  saccharin  to  taste.  Let  it  stand  till  nearly 
cold  ;  add  a  glass  of  wine  or  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  pour  into 
a  buttered  mould,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  until  the  next  day. 

Rhubarb  Fool. 

357.  Wash  and,  if  necessary,  peel  the  rhubarb  and  cut  it  up 
into  small  pieces.  Put  as  much  as  is  to  be  used  into  a  jar 
which  has  a  closely-fitting  lid,  with  as  much  saccharin  as  will 
be  required  to  sweeten  it.  Set  this  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  keep  it  boiling  until  the  fruit  is  quite  soft.  Rub 
it  through  a  sieve  with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon,  and  mix 
with  the  pulp  as  much  cream  as  will  make  it  of  the  consistency 
of  gruel.  Taste  it,  and,  if  not  sufficiently  sweet,  add  a  little 
more  saccharin.     Serve  cold  in  a  glass  dish. 

Plums,  Comp6te  of. 

358.  Boil  half  a  pint  of  water  with  ten  grains  of  saccharin  ; 
put  in  a  pound  of  plums,  and  let  them  simmer  until  they  are 
tender,  without  being  broken,  if  pos>iijle.  Lift  them  out,  place 
them  on  a  compote  dish,  and  pour  the  syrup  over  them.  Cream 
may  be  eaten  with  them. 

Moulded  Pear^ 

359.  Peel  and  cut  the  pears  into  quarters  ;  put  them  into  a 
jar,  with  one  pint  of  water,  eight  cloves,  a  small  piece  of  cinna- 
mon, and  sweeten  the  whole  nicely  with  saccharin  ;  cover  down 
the  top  of  the  jar,  and  bake  the  pears  in  a  gentle  oven  until 
perfectly  tender,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  break.  When  done, 
lay  the  pears  in  a  plain  mould,  which  should  be  well  wetted, 
and  boil  half  a  pint  of  the  liquor  the  pears  were  baked  in  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  raisin  wine,  a  strip  of  lemon-peel,  the  juice 


^es.}  FRUITS,  JELLIES,  AND  CREAMS,  123 

of  half  a  lemon,  and  one  ounce  of  gelatine  ;  let  these  in- 
gredients boil  quickly  for  five  minutes,  then  strain  the  liquid 
warm  over  the  pears,  put  the  mould  in  a  cool  place,  and  when 
the  jelly  is  firm  turn  it  out  on  a  glass  dish. 

Damsons,  Comp6te  of. 

360.  Take  eight  grains  of  saccharin  and  one  pint  of  water ; 
let  it  simmer  on  the  fire  until  the  saccharin  is  dissolved,  then 
throw  in  the  white  of  an  egg,  and  take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises. 
When  the  syrup  has  boiled  fifteen  minutes  drop  into  it,  one  by- 
one,  a  quart  of  sound  damsons,  and  simmer  until  soft  without 
breaking  them.  Remove  them  from  the  syrup,  and  boil  it 
again  ;  let  it  cool,  and  pour  it  over  the  damsons ;  which  should 
have  been  previously  arranged  in  a  glass  dish.  A  glass  of 
whipped  cream  is  a  nice  accompaniment  to  this  dish. 

Apricots,  CoMrdxE  of. 

361.  Take  one  dozen  large,  sound  apricots;  halve  them, 
remove  the  stones,  and  blanch  the  kernels.  Put  twelve 
grains  of  saccharin  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water.  Let  it 
boil;  then  put  in  the  apricots,  and  let  them  simmer  very  gently 
for  a  few  minutes.  Take  them  out,  drain  them,  and  arrange 
them  in  a  dish.  When  the  syrup  is  cold,  pour  it  over  the 
fruit ;  put  half  a  kernel  upon  each  piece  of  apricot. 

BEVERAGES. 
Lemonade. 

362.  Put  the  juice  of  a  lemon  to  a  pint  of  water  in  which 
one  grain  of  saccharin  has  been  dissolved ;  then  add  the  white 
of  an  egg  and  froth  up.     It  may  be  iced. 

Tamarind  Water. 

363.  Boil  two  ounces  of  tamarinds  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  stoned  raisins  in  three  pints  of  water  for  an  hour ; 
strain  it,  and  when  cold  it  is  fit  for  use. 


124  foods  for  the  fat,  [364- 

Orange  Gin. 

364.  To  one  gallon  of  the  strongest  gin  put  the  rinds,  pared 
very  thin,  of  eighteen  Seville  oranges  and  sixteen  grains  of 
saccharin.  Let  the  gin  remain  on  the  peel  in  a  stone  jar  or 
bottle  for  a  month  (the  bottle  mast  be  kept  air-tight),  then 
bottle  for  use.     If  required  it  will  be  fit  for  use  at  once. 

Cherry  Brandy. 

365.  Fill  wide-mouthed  bottles  with  good  Morella  cherries 
nearly  full;  prick  the  cherries  first  in  three  or  four  places  with 
a  fine  needle ;  put  into  each  bottle  four  grains  of  saccharin,  fill 
up  with  brandy.  Cork,  and  cover  with  bladder  very  tight. 
Best  kept  for  a  year. 

Eggs  and  Brandy. 

366.  Beat  up  two  eggs  to  a  froth  in  two  ounces  of  cold 
spring  water  ;  add  a  little  saccharin  and  pour  in  one  ounce  of 
brand}^  stirring  all  the  time. 

Cream  of  Tartar.     (A  Cooling  Drink.) 

367.  Put  half  an  ounce  of  cream  of  tartar,  the  juice  of  one 
lemon,  and  one  grain  of  saccharin  into  a  jug,  and  pour  over  a 
quart  of  boiling  water.     Cover  till  cold. 

Egg  and  Sherry. 

368.  Beat  up  with  a  fork  an  egg  till  it  froths ;  add  a  very 
small  quantity  of  milk,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water ;  mix 
well,  pour  in  a  wineglassful  of  sherry,  and  serve  before  it  gets  flat. 

An  American  Drink. 

369.  Put  the  juice  of  a  lemon  to  a  pint  of  water  in  v/hich 
one  grain  of  saccharin  has  been  dissolved  ;  then  add  the  white 
of  an  egg  and  froth  up.     It  may  be  iced. 

Claret  Cup. 

370.  Take  one  bottle  of  claret,  one  bottle  of  soda-water, 
about  half  a  pound  of  pounded  ice,  four  grains  of  saccharin,  a 


374-]  BEVERAGES,  125 

little  grated  nutmeg,  one  liqueur-glass  of  maraschino,  and  a 
sprig  of  green  borage.  Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  silver 
cup,  regulating  the  proportion  of  ice  by  the  state  of  the 
weather ;  if  very  warm  a  larger  quantity  would  be  necessary. 
Hand  the  cup  round  with  a  clean  napkin  passed  through  one 
of  the  handles,  that  the  edge  of  the  cup  may  be  wiped  after 
each  guest  has  partaken  of  the  contents  thereof. 

Egg  Wine. 

371.  Well  beat  a  nice  new-laid  egg  with  a  little  water,  and 
then  pour  over  it  a  glass  of  white  wine  made  very  hot,  with 
half  a  tumbler  of  water  and  a  little  saccharin.  Stir  it  all  the 
time  until  well  mixed  together ;  then  set  it  over  the  fire  until 
it  thickens  and  is  very  hot,  without  coming  to  a  boil.  It  must 
be  stirred  one  way  all  the  time,  and  when  done  poured  into  a 
glass,  and  served  with  a  thin  slice  of  toasted  bread  cut  into 
long  slices  and  placed  on  a  plate  crossed  over  each  other.  A 
little  grated  nutmeg  may  be  added  if  the  flavour  is  liked. 

Lemonade. 

372.  Grate  the  peel  of  six  lemons ;  pour  a  quart  of  boiling 
water  on  it.  Let  it  stand  some  time  ;  then  add  the  juice  of  the 
lemons  (take  care  not  to  let  the  lemon  pips  fall  into  the 
liquid),  sweeten  it  with  one  or  two  grains  of  saccharin,  and 
run  it  through  a  jelly-bag. 

Wine  Caudle. 

373.  Beat  with  a  whisk  the  white  of  one  egg,  and  the  yolks 
of  eight ;  stir  into  it  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  a  pint  of  water, 
the  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  eight  grains  of  saccharin.  Set  the 
mixture  on  the  fire  and  keep  stirring  it ;  remove  it  as  soon  as 
it  boils.     Pour  the  caudle  into  a  bowl  or  small  glasses. 

For  Summer  Drinks. 

374.  One  pound  of  red  currants  bruised  with  some  rasp- 
berries, eight  grains  of  saccharin,  added  to  a  gallon  of  cold 
water ;  this  is  well  stirred,  allowed  to  settle,  and  then  bottled. 


126  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [375. 

Apple  Water. 

375.  Pare  and  core  three  or  four  large  apples,  put  them  into 
a  quart  jug  with  two  grains  of  saccharin,  a  few  strips  of  very 
thin  lemon-peel,  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Fill  the 
jug  with  boiling  water ;  cover  it  over,  and  leave  till  cold. 


SAUCES    FOR    FISH,    MEATS,    VEGETABLES,    AND 

SALADS. 

Mayonnaise  Sauce. 

376.  Take  one  yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little 
raw  mustard.  Mix  these  together  with  a  silver  fork  in  a  large 
plate ;  add  salad  oil,  little  by  little  (it  will  take  almost  any 
quantity,  but  you  must  be  guided  by  taste  and  the  quantity 
required).  Mix  by  stirring  one  way  until  thick  and  smooth  ; 
then  add  vinegar  enough  to  tbin  it  a  little.  If  there  is  any 
difficulty  found  in  getting  the  oil  to  mix  smoothly,  add  just  a 
few  drops  of  vinegar  from  time  to  time  and  keep  stirring,  and 
it  will  finally  come  right. 

Lobster  Sauce. 

377.  Break  a  lobster  carefully,  cut  the  meat  into  small 
pieces,  beat  the  spawn  very  fine  in  a  marble  mortar  with  a  bit 
of  butter.  Put  a  little  melted  butter  on  the  fire,  add  the 
spawn  to  it,  also  one  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  pepper, 
salt,  cayenne,  and  about  half  a  teacup  of  cream ;  mix  well, 
simmer  a  little,  put  in  the  pieces  of  lobster,  simmer  again,  but 
do  not  boil,  or  it  will  curdle. 

Sauce  Tartare. 

378.  One  saltspoonful  of  good  cayenne  pepper  in  very  fine 
powder,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  little  saccharin  ;  mix  well, 
then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon, 


383.]  SAUCES  FOR  FISH,  MEATS,   VEGETABLES.  127 

two  tablespoonfuls  of  Harvey's  sauce,  one  teaspoon ful  of  mush- 
room ketchup,  and  a  small  wineglass  of  port  wine.  Put  all 
this  into  a  jar,  and  place  the  jar  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  to 
heat  the  sauce.  Very  good  to  mix  with  other  gravy,  or  to  use 
with  anything  grilled. 

Sauce  Espagnole. 

379.  Boil  two  eggs  hard,  chop  up  fine ;  take  half  a  cup  of 
thin  cream  or  good  milk ;  add  to  it  the  beaten  raw  yolk  of  an 
egg ;  warm  on  the  fire  to  thicken  a  little.  Add  pepper,  salt,  a 
teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  the  chopped  eggs.  Heat 
well,  and  serve. 

Sauce  Piquante. 

380.  Boil  together  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion,  same 
of  parsley,  and  of  mushrooms,  in  one  ounce  of  butter  for  five 
minutes  ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  good  stock,  add  salt  and 
cayenne,  and  stir  in  last  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar.  Boil  a 
few  minutes. 

Cucumber  Sauce. 

381.  Peel  some  cucumbers,  cut  up  very  small ;  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  little  broth,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
salt,  cayenne,  and  a  little  essence  of  celery  (or  omit  the  salt 
and  use  celery  salt) ;  a  small  bit  of  boiled  onion  may  be  added 
if  liked,  and  a  bit  of  butter.  Stew  gently  till  tender ;  rub 
through  a  sieve.     Serve  with  any  cutlets. 

Dutch  Sauce. 

382.  The  yolks  of  two  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream,  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a 
little  cayenne,  and  a  blade  of  mace.  To  be  all  stirred  together 
one  way  and  simmered  till  it  is  the  consistency  of  custard. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Horseradish  Sauce. 

383.  Half  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard  and  a  little  salt ;  work 
into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  until  quite  smooth,  one  or 


128  FOODS  FOR  IHE  FAT.  [384 

two  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
horseradish.  If  too  thick  or  hot,  add  a  httle  more  cream.  The 
mustard  can  be  omitted  if  not  liked  very  hot. 

Cold  Sauce  Piquante. 

384.  Boil  two  eggs  very  hard,  rub  the  yolks  through  a  sieve, 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  tarragon  vinegar,  chilli 
vinegar,  and  common  vinegar,  a  little  minced  parsley  and 
shallot,  pepper,  salt,  a  teacupful  of  cream  ;  stir  all  well  and 
smooth  together.     It  is  better  to  put  the  vinegar  in  last. 

Sauce  for  Cold  Game. 

385.  One  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  a  very  little  saccha- 
rin, two  teaspoonfuls  of  salad  oil;  mix  smooth.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  add  salt,  pepper,  and  some  minced  parsley ; 
mix  well  with  the  above,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  tarragon 
vinegar  and  half  a  glass  of  white  wine. 

Salad  Mixture. 

386.  Two  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  rubbed  very  smooth, 
with  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  a  little  saccharin,  a  teaspoonful  of 
raw  mustard ;  mix  all  well.  Next,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
salad  oil  worked  in  by  degrees,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream ; 
lastly,  one  to  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  More  cream  can 
be  added  before  the  vinegar  if  too  thick  or  if  it  is  too  hot  of 
mustard. 

Pudding  Sauce. 

387.  The  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  mixed  with  a  little  saccharin 
and  half  a  teacupful  of  cream.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  it 
thickens,  then  add  half  a  wineglass  of  wine ;  warm  it,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil. 

Lemon  Sauce. 

388.  Cut  the  rind  of  a  lemon  very  thin ;  boil  it  for  three 
minutes  in  a  teacup  of  water ;  stir  in  the  juice  of  the  lemon, 
strained,  and  add  a  little  saccharin  and  a  few  drops  of  brandy. 


393.]  SAUCES  FOR  FISH,  MEATS,  VEGETABLES.  129 

Sauce  Piquante. 

389.  Half  a  teacup  of  gravy,  one  tablespoonful  of  French 
mustard,  two  of  Worcester  sauce,  two  of  port  wine,  a  little 
saccharin,  one  teaspoonful  of  shallot  and  chilli  vinegar.  Warm 
gently  over  a  slow  fire,  and  serve  over  warmed  game;  or  pieces 
of  meat  or  game  can  be  warmed  in  it. 

Brown  Onion  Sauce. 

390.  Slice  some  onions,  about  five ;  brown  in  a  stewpan  with 
butter ;  add  half  a  pint  of  good  stock,  and  stew  till  tender. 

Tomato  Sauce. 

391.  Melt  in  a  stewpan  a  dozen  or  two  ripe  tomatoes 
(which,  before  putting  into  the  stewpan,  cut  in  two  and 
squeeze  the  juice  and  the  seeds  out).  Then  put  two  shallots, 
one  onion,  a  clove,  a  little  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  few  leaves  of 
mace,  and  when  melted  rub  them  through  a  tamis.  Mix  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  good  espagnole  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper 
with  this  pur^e.     Boil  it  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve. 

Mint  Sauce. 

392.  Wash  and  free  from  grit  three  tablespoonfuls  of  young 
green  mint,  chop  exceedingly  fine  and  put  it  in  a  sauce-tureen 
with  a  teacupful  of  vinegar,  and  sweeten  according  to  taste 
with  saccharin.  Mint  sauce  should  be  allowed  to  stand  an 
hour  or  two  before  being  used. 

Tartar  Sauce. 

393.  Eub  the  hard-boiled  yolks  of  three  eggs  to  a  powder ; 
add  a  saltspoonful  of  mustard,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  grain  of  cayenne,  and  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg ; 
stir  in  drop  by  drop  four  tablespoonfuls  of  lucca  oil,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
French  vinegar ;  continue  to  stir  till  the  sauce  becomes  thick ; 

9 


130  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT,  [394. 

chop  quite  fine  one  shallot,  a  piece  of  garlic  as  l3ig  as  a  pea, 
and  one  small  gherkin;  stir  these  into  the  sauce,  and  serve 
cold. 

Royal  Sauce  for  Fish. 

394.  Beat  two  raw  yolks  of  eggs  with  two  ounces  of  fresh 
butter  ;  add  gradually  a  teaspoonful  of  elder  vinegar,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar^  a  teaspoonful  of  soy,  a  pinch  of 
cayenne,  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  nutmeg.  Pour  the 
mixture  into  an  earthen  jar ;  set  this  in  a  small  saucepan  of 
boiling  water,  and  keep  it  boiling,  stirring  briskly  all  the  time, 
until  the  sauce  begins  to  thicken  and  presents  a  rich,  smooth 
appearance  ;  be  careful  that  it  does  not  curdle,  which  it  will 
quickly  do  if  not  taken  from  the  fire  as  soon  as  it  is  smooth 
and  thick.     Time,  about  ten  minutes. 

Italian  Sauce. 

395.  Put  the  following  ingredients  into  a  stewpan  :  Two 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  of  parsley,  half  a  shallot, 
the  same  of  bay-leaf;  add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Stew  them 
gently  with  just  enough  espagnole  sauce  to  moisten  them,  and 
thin  to  a  proper  consistency  with  good  strong  broth. 

Brown  Butter  Sauce  for  Fish. 

396.  Dissolve  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  stir 
it  till  it  is  brown  without  burning.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
tarragon  vinegar,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  good  brown  sauce,  a 
tablespoonful  of  Harvey,  a  teaspoonful  of  bruised  capers,  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy.  Stir  the  same  over  the  fire  till 
it  boils,  and  serve. 

Spinach  Sauce  for  Boiled  Fowls,  etc. 

397.  AVash  the  spinach  in  two  or  three  waters,  pick  the 
leaves  from  the  stalks,  drain  it,  and  stew  it  with  as  much 
water  only  as  will  keep  it  from  burning.  Squeeze  the  moisture 


40 r.]  SAUCES  FOR  FISH,  MEATS,   VEGETABLES.  131 

from  it,  and  beat  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  till  smooth.  Dissolve 
a  slice  of  fresh  butter  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  spinach,  and 
stir  it  till  it  is  quite  hot  and  dry.  Add  pspper  and  salt,  and  as 
much  boiling  milk  as  will  make  the  same  of  the  consistency  of 
thick  cream. 

Mushroom  Sauce. 

398.  Button  or  flap  mushrooms  may  be  used  for  this  sauce. 
They  should  be  rinsed  in  cold  water,  drained,  and  dried  in  a 
soft  cloth,  and  if  flap  ones  cut  into  pieces.  Simmer  the  mush- 
rooms, without  stalks,  in  half  a  pint  of  beef  gravy ;  add  a  little 
mushroom  ketchup  and  an  ounce  of  butter.  If  liked,  flavour 
with  lemon  peel,  and  squeeze  in  some  of  the  juice  before 
servinj^. 

Apple  Sauce. 

399.  Pare,  core,  and  slice  four  or  five  apples  ;  place  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  only  just  enough  water  to  keep  them  from 
burning.  Let  them  simmer  gently,  stirring  frequently,  over  a 
slow  fire,  until  they  are  reduced  to  a  pulp  ;  turn  them  into  a 
bowl,  and  beat  them  well ;  sweeten  with  saccharin  according  to 
taste,  and  add  the  squeeze  of  a  lemon,  and  a  small  piece  of 
butter. 

Gooseberry  Sauce. 

400.  Cut  the  tops  and  stalks  from  half  a  pint  of  green 
gooseberries ;  boil  them  until  tender,  press  them  through  a 
sieve,  and  mix  them  with  a  little  butter.  Various  seasonings 
may  be  used  for  this  sauce,  such  as  grated  ginger  or  grated 
lemon-rind,  grated  nutiueg,  a  little  saccharin,  or  cayenne 
pepper  ;  a  wineglassful  of  sorrel  or  spinach -juice  is  a  decided 
improvement. 

Sauce  for  Mutton  Chops. 

401.  Take  three  tablespoonfuls  of  gravy,  two  of  wine,  two 

of  Worcester  sauce  or  ketchup,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  teaspoonful 

of  shallot  vinegar  ;  stir  till  hoi;  puur  over  the  chops. 

o o 


132  FOODS  FOR  THE  FAT.  [402. 

Lemon  Sauce.  . 

402.  Cut  the  rind  of  a  lemon  very  thin,  boil  it  for  three 
minutes  in  a  teacup  of  water,  stir  in  the  juice  of  the  lemon, 
strained ;  add  a  little  saccharin  and  a  few  drops  of  brandy. 

Pudding  Sauce. 

403.  The  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  mixed  with  a  little  sac- 
charin and  half  a  teacupful  of  cream.  Stir  over  the  fire  until 
it  thickens,  then  add  half  a  wineglass  of  wine ;  warm  it,  but 
don't  let  it  boil.' 


INDEX 


The  figures  rejer  to  the 

Aerated  drinks  and  waters,  110,  111 

112,  113 
'Aids  to  Long  Life,'  pages  11,  19 
Alcohol  : 

Effects  of,  87 

Injury  by,  88 

Best  mode  of  taking,  90 

Quantity  of  safe,  88 

Not  fattening,  88 
Appetite  and  food,  26 
Asiatics,  Food  of,  page  20 
Assam  tea,  105 
Assimilation  of  food,  51 

Banting's  diet,  25 

Solids  in,  38 

System  wrong,  31 
Beer  injurious  to  fat  people,  89 

A  cause  of   gout   and   bilious- 
ness, 89 
Beverages  : 

American  drink,  369 

Apple  water,  375 

Cherry  brandy,  365 

Claret-cup,  370 

Cream  of  tartar,  367 

Egg  and  chablis,  368 
,,  brandy,  366 
,,       wine,  371 

Emit  drinks,  374 

Lemonade,  b62 

Orange  gin.  364 

Tamarind  water,  363 

Wine  caudle,  373 
Breakfast  di-hes  : 

Baked  egg?,  144 

Bloaters,  159 

Brawn, 

Duck  olives,  167 


number  of  the  paragraphs. 

Breakfast  dishes  {continued)  : 
Eggs  and  garlic,  160 
Eish  rissoles,  150 
Eried  soles  or  cod,  145 
Haddocks,  dried,  162 
Herrings,  pickled,  163 
Hunter's  beef,  141 
Indian  devil  mixttu-e,  142 
Irish  sandwiches,  133 
Kidney  balls,  152 
,,        omelette,  164 
,,       minced,  165 
Lamb  cutlets,  134 
Ling,  fresh,  158 
Mushrooms  and  eggs,  161 
Mackerel,  boiled,  135 
J,  broiled,  136 

,,  „        and    tarra- 

gon butter,  137 
Meat,  hot,  devilled,  147 
Meat  rissoles,  German,  138 
Mullet,  red,  bakeH,  156 
Mushroom  toast,  128 

,,         au  beurre,  129 
,,         grilled,  130 
Mutton  chops,  127 

„       kidneys,  fried,  126 
,,  ,,        stewed,  132 

,,        cutlets      and      tomato 
sauce,  131,  401 
Mutton  kidneys,  broiled,  166 
Pig's  kidneys,  broiled,  139 

„  „         fried.  140 

Pheasant,  potted,  168 
Savoury  omelette,  143 
Salmon,  kippered,  grilled,  146 
Sheep's  tongue--,  stewed,  149 
Sweetbreads,  Irowned,  154 
Trout,  fried,  155 


134 


INDEX. 


Breakfast  dishes  {continued) : 

Trout,  broiled,  170 

Veal  cake,  169 
Blood,  Circulation  of,  5 

Healthy,  13 
Brahmin's  food,  page  20 
Bi'eathlessness  in  corpulency,  4 
Burgundy,  g'od  in  coipulence,  92 

Characteristics  of,  93 

High  price  of,  94 
Byron,  Lord,  on  Fat,  page  23 

Carbo-hydrate,  Meaning  of,  page  22 
Carlsbad  for  corpulency,  'o2 
Chablis  wine,  94 
Chateau  Yquem,  94 
Chinese  way  of  making  tea,  101 
Claret  good  for  the  fat,  92 
Climate  and  food,  49 
Cocoa  as  a  dietic,  109 

Injurious  to  fat  people,  109 
Coffee,  page  37 

As  a  i-timulant 

Its  use,  page  37 

When  first  used,  page  37 

Useful  in  obesity,  page  38 
„      in  fatigue,  page  38 
Constipatidn  in  corpulency,  6 
Corpulency,  Breathlessness  in,  4 

Cause  of,  3 

Commencement  of,  1 

Constipation  in,  6 

Death  from,  11 

Diet  in,  13 

Different  exercise  in,  4 

Faintness  in,  11 

Erupti(ms  in,  9 

Gout  in,  9 

Liability  to  cold  in,  7 

Liability  to  disease  in,  9 

Liquids  in,  3 

Medicine  injurious  in,  12 

Mental  activity  in,  8 

Perspiration  in,  9 

Perverted  nutrition,  12 

Piles  in,  6 

Kheumatism  in,  9 

Rules  in,  13 

Shortness  of  breath  in,  11 

Shortness  of  life  in,  11 

Sluggish  circulation  in,  6 

Subjects  of,  2 


Corpulency  {continued) : 
Weakness  in,  10 

Diarrhoea,  7 

Diet,  influence  on  character,  10 
Hospital,  27 
Prison,  page  15 
Digestion  improved  by  exercise,  78 
Dinner  dishes  : 

Beef,  minced,  279 
,,     curried,  277 
„     fried,  227 
„     kidney  to  dress,  278 
,,     steak,  fried,  228 
Broiled  chicken,  237 
Calf's  liver,  a  la  mode,  275 
Calf's  head  and  oysters,  284 

,,  ragotit,  285 

Calf's  heart,  roasted,  229 

,,      sweetbreads,  stewed,  230 
Chicken,  a  la  Marengo,  272 
,,         devilled,  273 
„         fried,  274 
Fillets  de  boeuf  aux  truflBes,  264 
Fowls,  boiled,  236 

„       Guinea,  roasted,  235 
Indian  fagadu,  258 

„      hash,  233 
Lamb,  Loin  of  braised,  276 
,,       chops, with  tomato  .^auce, 
286 
Larks,  broiled,  242 
Leveret,  roasted,  260 
Liver,  fried,  243 
Meat-pie,  h,  la  Don  Pedro,  3G1 
Minced  collops,  231 
Mutton,  kebobbed,  256 
,,       cutlets  to  stew,  283 
,,       Neck  of,  boiled,  255 
,,       roebuck  fashion,  257 
„       Shoulder  of  boned,  232 
,,       curried,  234 
Norman  hash,  282 
Ox-tail,  stewed.  225 

,,        with  spinach,  226 
Omelette,  with  gravy,  262 
Partridge,  broilc'l,  250 
„  cold,  252 

„  Salmis  of,  251 

Peafowl,  roasted,  249 
Perdrix  an  Vin,  244 
Pigeons,  238 


INDEX. 


135 


Dinner  dishes  {continued)  : 
Pigeons,  compote  of,  253 

„        stewed     with     mush- 
rooms, 239 
Pigeons,  with  watercress,  254 
Pheasant,  boiled,  245 
„         broiled,  246 
„         masted,  248 
,,         Salmi  of,  247 
Rabbits,  boiled,  265 

„       a  la  Tartare,  267 
„        fricasseed,  270 
„        Ragotlt  of,  271 
„       roasted,  266 
„       stewed,  269 
„       v.'ith  tomato  sauce,  268 
Sweetbreads,  curried,  259,  240 
,,  with  sauce  piqu- 

ante,  241 
Venison,  to  roast,  280 
„        hashed,  281 
Drink  in  corpulency,  112 

Eating  to  live,  35 

Between  meals,  35 
Ebstein's  diet,  25 

System  for  reducing  fat,  32 

Its  composition,  32 
Esquimaux  live  on  fat,  62 
Exercise,  page  29 

Amount  of  necessary,  79 

After  meals,  injurious,  83 

Importance  of,  76 

In  daily  work,  80 

Kegular,  81 

Riding,  82 

Earinaceous  food,  37 

Eat: 

A  sign  of  health,  54 
Heat-producing,  60 
In  body.  Weight  of,  2,  53 
In  muscle.  Danger  of,  36 
In  Arctic  regions,  61 
Keeps  the  body  warm,  54 
Prevents  starvation,  56 
Resists  cold,  63 
Stored  food,  55 
Sustains  heat  of  body,  54,  64 
Sustains  life,  page  24 
System  for  reducing,  36 
Uses  of,  page  24 


Fatigue,  Tea,  useful  in,  99 
Eish  : 

Cod,  crimped,  224 
Haddocks,  broiled,  208 
„  baked,  209 

fillets  of,  210 
Lobster,  cold,  201 

„        dressed     with     sauce 

piquante,  202 
„        salad,  203 
,,        k  la  creme,  204 
Mullet,  Gray,  broiled,  15^5 

„        stewed,  196 
Oysters,  baked,  222 
„        cold,  197 
„        fritters,  223 
„        omelette  of,  198 
„        scalloped,  199 
Perch,  fried  with  herbs,  200 
Plaice,  boiled,  217 
,,      filleted,  215 
Red  Mullet,  broiled,  211 

„  fried,  212 

Smelts,  213 

„       broiled,  214 
Sole  au  vin  blanc,  219 
„     broiled,  221 
„     filleted  (Italian),  220 
Whiting,  fried,  205 

„        au  gratin,  206 
„        aux  fines  herbes,  207 
„        broiled,  217 
„        stewed,  216 
Elesh,  loss  of.  Safe  when,  18 
Food  and  appetite,  26 
After  forty,  69 

Amount  to  be  consumed,  page  28 
During  growth,  69 
Drink,  its  meaning,  42 
Chosen  :  its  requirements,  30 
Classes  of,  43 
Climate,  49 

Decrease  of  weight  under  cer- 
tain, 24 
Different  kinds.  Vital  value  of, 

48 
Equivalent  of,  21 
For  hard  Avork,  14 
In  corpulency,  17 
Limit  of,  page  27 
Meals  of,  29 
Nitrogenous,  43 


136 


INDEX. 


Food  and  appetite  {continued)  • 

Non-Nitrogenous,  43 
Required,  14 
To  make  muscle,  16 
To  sustain  strength,  19 
To  reduce  fat,  28 
Uncimsumed,  50 
Under  cold,  15 
French,  Corpulence  of,  3 

Germans  fat  from  beer-drinking,  89 
Gout  f lom  too  much  food,  50 
Gravy,  page  81 
Guy's  Hospital :  its  diet,  27 

Heart,  to  strengthen,  81 
Height  to  weight,  41 
Correct,  41 

Indian  tea,  105 

Lambert,  Daniel,  Weight  of,  2 

Man  a  machine,  43 

Compared  to  railway  engine,  47 
Food,  various  in  quantity,  68 
Meat,  Excess  of,  67 
Moleschott's  diet-tables,  39 
Muscles  improved  by  exercise,  77 

Napoleon's  wine,  page  33 

Nitrogenous  food  :  its  composition, 44 
Makes  living  tissue,  page  21 
The  instrument  of  life,  45 

Non-nitrogenous  food  :  its  composi- 
tion, 46 

Nutrition  perverted,  12 

Obese,  Temperament  of,  8 

Drink  in,  13 

Exercise  for,  13 
Obesity,  Distinctions  in,  36 
Occupation    influences    amovmt    of 

food,  49 
Oertel's  diet  rules  25 

Improved  blood  and  muscle  in, 
34 

System  for  reducing  fat,  33 
Over-eating,  Evils  of,  page  27 

Effects  of,  66 


Palpitation  caused  by  tea,  98 
Piles  in  corpulency,  6 
Plain  living  healthy,  65 
Playfair's,  Dr.  Lyon,  table  of  diet 
22 

Kats,  Experiments  on,  page  25 

Saccharin,  page  115 

Where  to  procure,  page  115 
Saccharin  sweets  and  jellies  : 

Apple. shape,  356 
^,      snow,  355 

Apricot,  Compote  of,  361 

Calf's-foot  jelly,  338 

Claret  jelly,  342 

Cherries,  Compote  of,  349 

Currant    and    raspberry   jelly 
345 

Custard,  352 

Damson,  Comp6te  of,  360 

Gooseberry  fool,  339 

Lemon  cream,  335 
,,       jelly,  341 

,,      cream   without   cream, 
336 

Omelette  plain,  sweet,  351 

Orange  jelly,  344 

Nourishing  cream,  353 
•  Pears,  moulded,  359 

Plums,  Compote  of,  358 

Kaspberry  cream,  337 

Eed  rhubarb,  348 

Bhubarb  mould,  354 
„        fool,  357 

Rum  jelly,  346 

Stewed  apples,  347 
,,       prunes,  344 

Strawberry  jelly,  343 
Salad  mixture,  386 
Sauce  : 

Apple,  399 

Brown  onion,  390 

Brown  butter,  396 

Cucumber,  381 

Game,  cold,  385 

Cold  piquante,  384 

Dutch,  382 

Gooseberry,  400 

Horseradish,  383 

Itilian,  395 


INDEX. 


137 


Sauce  {continued) : 

Lemon,  388 

Lobster,  377 

Mayonnaise,  376 

Mint,  392 

Mush  room,  398 

Pudding,  387 

Royal,  394 

Sauce  tar  tare,  378 
„      espagnole,  379 

Tomato,  391 
Scotch,  Leanness  of,  2 
Season  and  food,  49 
Sex  :  its  influence,  69 
Skin,  Action  of,  in  corpulency,  78 
Soups : 

Brilla,  191 

Brown,  192 

Cabbage,  189 

Carrot,  190 

Fish,  183 

Fowl  or  chicken,  179 

Game,  180 

Giblet,  193 

Green  pea,  181 

Hare,  178 

Hunter's,  173 

Imperial,  193* 

Julienne,  171 
.       Kidney,  185 

Lobster,  194 

Mulligatawny,  174 

,,  rabbit,  172 

Ox- tail,  clear,  175 

Oyster,  182 

Pheasant,  176 

,,         another  way,  177 

Eabbit,  187 

Tomato,  184 

Vegetable,  188 

White,  186 
Stimulants  in  corpulency,  page  32 

Best  mode  of  taking,  page  33 


Tea,  page  34 

Adulterated,  101,  102 

Evil  effects  of,  in  excess,  98 

How  to  make,  ]  00 

Moderate  use  of,  beneficial,  105 

Not  a  food,  97 

Russian  mode  of  making,  101 


Tia  {continued) : 

Use  of,  97 
Wholesome,  105 

Varicose  veins  in  corpulency,  7 
Vegetables  for  corpulent  people, page 
111 
Artichokes,  boiled,  298 
„  fried,  321 

„  stewed    in    gravy, 

322 
„  mashed,  323 

Asparagus,  boiled,  298 
Beans,  stewed,  301 
Broccoli,  boiled,  289 
Brussels  sprouts,  307 

,.  saute,  334 

Cabbage,' boiled,  289 
Cardoons,  boiled,  296 
Cauliflowers,  boiled,  302 
Cabbage,  fried,  317 

„         creamed,  320 
Cauliflower,  with  sauce,  329 
Celery,  stewed,  295 
Cucumbers,  stewed,  325 
French  beans,  boiled,  300 
Green  peas,  boiled,  305 
Haricots  verts,  326 
Leeks,  boiled,  306 
Lettuce,  stewed,  293 
Mushrooms,  grilled,  294 
„  broiled,  309 

„  stewed,  330 

Onions,  boiled,  311 
Portugal  onions,  stewed,  312 
„  roasted,  313 

Portugal  onions,  curried,  314 
Ragotit  of  celery,  315 
Red  cabbage,  stewed,  324 
Savoy  cabbage,  288 
Scotch  kale,  290 
Seakale,  boiled,  291 
„        stewed,  328 
Spinach,  boiled,  292 

„         with  cream,  318 
„  ,,     gravy,  319 

Tomatoes,  curried,  327 
„  baked,  332 

Turnips,  boiled,  297 
Vegetable  marrow,  boiled,  303 
„  in      gravy 

304 


i3S 


INDEX. 


Vegetables    for    corpuleBt     people 
[continued)  : 
Vegetable  marrow,  fried ,  320 
„  mashed,  321 

,,  mixed,  316 

Weig^  to  height,  40 

Wines,  Sweet,  injurious,  page  34 


Wines  {continued) : 

Light,  best  for  fat  people,  93 

To  be  avoided,  94 
Water,  amount  required.  111 

In  corpulency,  112 

How  used  in  the  system,  113 
Wine-merchant,  To  chocse,  95 
Wine  with  meals,  96 


THE  END. 


United  States  Dispensatory. 


New  (i6th)  edition.  Illustrated.  Carefully  revised  and  re- 
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"  We  commend  this  work  as  a  most  valuable  addition  not  only  to  pharma- 
ceutical literature,  but  to  the  medical  profession  as  almost  invaluable.  Its 
literature,  its  chemistry',  and  its  pharmacy  are  fully  up  to  any  similar  work  here 
or  abroad  of  its  kind,  and  the  high  standard  of  excellence  in  the  past  is  only 
enhanced  by  the  thoroughly  reliable  and  trustworthy  work  of  the  present 
edition . ' '  — Pharmaceutical  Record. 


*^*  For  sale  by  all  Booksellers,  or  will  be  sent  by  the  Publishers,  free  of 
expense,  on  receipt  of  the  price. 

J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT   COMPANY, 

71S-717   MARKET   STREET, 
PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 


AN  ELEMENTARY  TREATISE 

ON 

Human  Anatomy. 

By  Joseph  Leidy,  M.D.,  Professor  of  Anatomy  in  the 
University  of  Pennsylvania,  etc.,  etc.  New  (second) 
edition,  rewritten  and  enlarged.  Containing  495  illus- 
trations.    8vo.     Extra  cloth,  $6.00  ;  sheep,  $6.50. 

In  the  preparation,  of  this  great  work,  Dr.  Leidy  has  given 
special  attention  to  those  parts  of  the  human  body,  a  minute 
knowledge  of  which  is  essential  to  the  successful  practitioner  of 
surgery  and  medicine.  The  names  in  most  text-books  are  given 
in  Latin ;  the  auth(n-,  however,  has  as  far  as  possible  used  an 
English  equivalent  for  such  names,  the  Latin  being  given  in  foot- 
notes. The  illustrations  are  numerous  and  largely  original,  and 
prepai'ed  in  the  best  style  of  the  engraver's  art.  As  most  of  the 
recent  text-books  of  anatomy  are  very  cumbersome,  the  conden- 
sation of  this  volume  is  a  feature  of  great  merit.  The  present 
edition  (entirely  rewritten)  presents  the  ripe  fruits  of  Dr.  Leidy's 
experience  of  many  years  of  successful  labor  as  a  teacher  and  as 
an  original  observer  and  discoverer  in  anatomical  science,  and  the 
work  will  be  everywhere  recognized  as  the  leading  authority  on 
the  subjects  of  which  it  treats. 


"  After  a  thorough  inspection  I  am  pleased  to  pronounce  *  Leidy's  Anat- 
omy' a  most  excellent  work.  It  covers  the  entire  field  in  a  masterly  manner, 
and  deals  with  subjects  entirely  overlooked  by  other  authors.  It  will  afford 
me  much  pleasure  to  introduce  it  not  only  in  my  school,  but  to  recommend  it  to 
the  profession  in  general." — S.  F.  Carpenter,  Northwest  Medical  College,  St. 
Joseph,  Mo. 

"  The  student  can  master  and  retain  a  practical  knowledge  of  anatomy  in 
a  shorter  time  and  with  less  hard  work  from  this  text-book  than  from  any  other 
work  extant,  and  it  has  been  our  privilege  to  teach  anatomy  for  several  years." 
— Ann  Arbor  (Mich.)  Medical  Advayice. 

"  We  know  of  no  book  that  could  take  its  place,  as  it  is  written  by  a  most 
distinguished  anatomist.  It  has  traits  that  no  other  work  on  the  subject  can 
boast  of." — St.  Louis  Medical  Brief. 


*  if'' For  sale  by  all  Booksellers,  or  will  be  sent  by  the  Publishers ,  free  of 
expense,  on  receipt  of  the  price. 

J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  COMPANY, 

715-717  MARKET  STREET, 
PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 

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